Any ideas for adding weight up front?

[rcracer78@gmail.com]

I'm looking to add a little more weight up front & down low on my Bomber to improve balance for more efficient crawling.

I recently installed brass Beef Tubes in my front AR60 which noticeably improved the Bomber's crawling characteristics but I think there's still room for improvement. I've heard some installing metal tape around the wheels and/or installing brass patties. That seems like it'll be beneficial for crawling but create a lot of inertia for the steering servo to deal with, especially at higher speeds.(bashing) I was thinking about adding the VP brass knuckle weights instead. Any thoughts?


My front AR60 currently consist of the following:

• Axial HD 38/13 bevel gears
• Brass Beef Tubes
• VP spool/locker
• VP VVDs
• VP C-hubs
• VP knuckles
• VP brass knuckle bushings
• VP titanium links
• VP shock/link mounts
• VP truss
• VP servo mount & clamps
• Fast Eddy's BBs
• VP titanium links
• MIP driveshaft

 

[durok]

I'd recommend keeping the weight from rotating, so no wheel weights for me - here's some information on the knuckle weights:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/general-crawlers/568031-vanquish-ar60-brass-knuckle-weight-review.html

 

[Jboucher]

Best option is the VP knuckles weight if you have the vp stage 1 knuckles.

Other than that it's the beef patties.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[gottorque]

Axial Underdrive 43*13 HD gears in the rear end. No not weight, but it keeps that front end pulling just a little faster than the rear (front end is better planted in climbs)

 

[angrchair]

I can recommend 3 things, from most useful to least.

Brass beef patties in the front, these will be the most effective for what you are wanting to do

swap from Titanium to Steel links in the front, will add a little more low down weight

Get a stainless steel winch plate, and possibly a winch too. This is the only one of the 3 things I have, because I wanted a winch but didn't want to necessarily add a bunch of unnecessary weight to my Bomber just to crawl better. It does add significant weight in the front, and its relatively low, but it is sprung weight, so not as good as the beef patties would be. Possibly weighs more though.
I used extra top shock bushings for the spacers and I have full steering servo clearance at full compression of the shocks.
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/wm-bsp.htm

I run those underdrive gears in the rear too.

 

[MAC FAB]

Front axle truss or skid, 14 ga as thick as 10 ga, will prevent any wheelies. :^) Way more weight than the knick knacs.

 

[mikemcE]

I’m stil a knuckle weight fan.
Dlux or RC Bros

Hang up and Drive

 

[rcracer78@gmail.com]

swap from Titanium to Steel links in the front, will add a little more low down weight

Hmm....never thought of that. Great idea BUT I do love my titanium. Lol

 

[rcracer78@gmail.com]

Here's what I got in the rear AR60 of my Bomber:

• Axial HD 43/13 bevel gears
• VP spool/locker
• Aluminum Beef Tubes
• VP lockouts
• VP titanium links
• VP shock/link mounts
• VP truss
• Fast Eddy's BBs
• MIP driveshaft

 

[svt923]

Dlux knuckles all the way.

Lots of non-rotating, unsprung weight placed far out on the axle, bigger axle bearings, bearing knuckle pivots for smooth, slop free movement, adjustable steering stops. Everything else is just weight.

 

[rcracer78@gmail.com]

I’m still a knuckle weight fan.
Dlux or RC Bros

Dlux knuckles all the way.

Those look mighty beefy!"thumbsup" Will they work with my VP c-hubs and VP steering knuckles though? I'm not sure. That's kinda why I'm leaning towards Vanquish's brass knuckles. They seem like they'll fit real nice with little-to-no interference with other moving parts, including wheels and steering tie-rod. I'm definetly going with weighted knuckles though. Non-rotating weight will save so much wear & tear on the drivetrain and steering components. Now I just gotta narrow it down to who's brass I'm gonna go with....VP, Dlux or RC Bros brass? Hmmm

 

[Alexander_0_1]

They’ll work with VP C-hubs, but I think they replace the steering knuckles all together. I looks like in one of the photos that Dlux “KNUCKLE” is attached to a drag link.

 

[TheLetterJ]

I have VP knuckles, clamping c-hubs, and knuckle weights on my AR60... IMO, the knuckle weights don't fit worth a damn, and are too expensive for what you get. I had to grind nearly 1/2oz off of mine to get them to clear all of the (Incision) steering linkage and clamping part of the c-hub.

If I were doing it all over again, I'd buy Dlux brass knuckles. They're heavier and don't look like an afterthought. They're also "legal" for competition use since the car can't operate if you take the weight off, the knuckle IS the weight.

I might get flamed for this one, but if you like to take your chances with Chinesium products, I put a set of these on my buddy's car: https://m.ebay.com/itm/2-4PCS-Inter...hash=item33ddb0ed0b:m:m0l44x7fqkVVlff2MMp10UA The machining tolerances sucked, but if you've got the time and not the money, they can be made to work right. Not quite as heavy as VP knuckle weights, and I'd still vote for Dlux knuckles.

 

[angrchair]

If I were doing it all over again, I'd buy Dlux brass knuckles. They're heavier and don't look like an afterthought. They're also "legal" for competition use since the car can't operate if you take the weight off, the knuckle IS the weight.

I was just thinking about this, but I figured he wasn't racing in U4.

 

[jstein87]

You can also switch to a thick stainless steel steering link set up to add some non rotational weight up there.

 

[wdiabc]

IMO, change weight distribution matters more than adding weight. You may consider taking off as much weight as possible from the rear.