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Another scale Sami build, with a few kinks...

89redranger

RCC Addict
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Messages
1,577
Location
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Well, I've finally been talked into taking my 1.9 MRC Pro and converting it to a scale class 1 competitor in my local club. After a little thought (like it was getting used anymore anyway???), there was only one build that came to mind. I have to have it my way though...

Currently just mocking things up, but it's coming along. Bending up chassis rails after ordering the body are next on the list. Problem being, cash is tight now. Please be patient with me through what is about to be one of the slowest builds I've ever done.

For now, I'm gonna copy and paste from my facebook. The descriptions below them will tell the story so far.

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My builds always start with an idea I haven't seen executed, or a way to clean up an existing idea. A 3 link with a panhard in the front is something I set out for on this build, as I have NEVER seen one on an MRC based build. I simply draw my brackets in 2d on graph paper, cut them out, tape them squarely on to my medium, transfer the draw to the aluminum with an exacto by cutting them out, then get to it with the hand tools.

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After rough cutting the brackets you've got a LOT of hand filing to do. I actually prefer to rough cut with a hacksaw, leaving generous material over my intended design. Doing so makes it easier to file them to the finished shape without screwing them up.

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The front 3 link bracket. The nubs under that plate will be trimmed down level with the top of the housing, leaving plenty of room for the panhard over the top. Yes, there is only one upper link.

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Trans cover will stay on the rig this time around. No dirt needed in my billet spur or pinion thanks! Trans is also built with HR billet gears spinning MIP CVD drive shafts. The front axle is over-driven with a mini E Revo pinion as well.

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The rear 4 link bracket. Once again, this bracket will be slammed down on the housing. The links are only temporary. My new plates are actualled drilled for M3 rod ends.

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Anticipated flex with shorter modded Mini Late Model shocks. This is also a guess on skid height with flex.

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Skid height at ride height. These side plates are actually loaners so I can figure out my link geometry. Look for a full c channel chassis soon! The wheelbase is also a little long with my Pro links. The wheelbase has to be shortened by around 20mm still. The chassis end of the upper links will also drop about 8mm to match the lowered link plates.

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Billet knuckles, C hubs, stainless M3 hardware, brass kingpins, CVs, and the whole bit. It's a shame I am taking it all off for LCC axles, knuckles, c hubs, and lockouts in the back. All of these parts have around 4 runs on them. The new wider LCC parts will also allow me to correct the scrub radius of these axles, and appreciate a little more strength. I don't plan on being nice to this rig.

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A spare housing and some shocks... These are the mini late model shocks with the ends modded for MRC rod ends and caps. Around 1/2" shorter total length, but only around 1/8" less travel than the MRC shocks with 6mm limiters installed. The red marker lines correlate to the piston inside each shock, and the oil is written on the body inside the spring. Medium mini t front springs with 40wt for the front, softs and 35wt in the rears. This rig as a scaler will be VERY forward biased, thus heavier oil and springs in the front. This will be a very controlled setup with just enough travel to get the job done. Oh yeah, 3s on my Mongoose setup ought to help...

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An example of how low the posts on top of the housing will be cut down. If it weren't for the fact that I want a panhard over the axle with a 3 link, this wouldn't be necessary.

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Rebuilt and ready modded mini late model shock in my hand, 6mm limited on the axle still. You can see the difference in length, though the travel is within 3mm of my old shocks. Short shocks will keep my rig low, keep the shocks at a scale place in my fender well, and not limit travel too much. Just enough to get the job done.

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Mockup panhard. Will end up MUCH shorter, much lower, and my link mount plate will be lower and NOT in the way.

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This is pretty standard for a Samurai MRC build. Chassis mounted steering ideas in the works. Need the chassis done first.

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The only other parts that remain from my comp rig are the ESC/RX. I also picked up the Axial waterproof box for the RX. Most of the electronics will be in the nose of this rig.

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4 runs on those Ti chassis plates, and they're just spare parts now...
 
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BTW, Please excuse the shock oil all over. This thing has been sitting, leaking shock oil, and collecting dust for over a year now!
 
Just thought I'd share the rules that I have to fit this rig into. This little guy will stay on 1.9s for most of the wheeling I do on my own, but for comps will wear a set of RC4WDs 1.55 steelies and tires yet to be determined. If it weren't for the fact that my blue claws are prohibited, I'd run them all the time.

These rules and guide lines were pulled directly from the SORRCA 2013 rule book, and I copied them from our clubs facebook page.

Class-1 “Street" • Description - A street legal off-road vehicle that you would drive to work or the trail head and outfit like an expedition vehicle such as the Camel Trophy truck D90 rigs.

Class-1 “Street” Details:

• Vehicle must have a windshield that fills the entire windshield frame.

• Full width bumpers are required on the front and rear of the vehicle. Bumpers that are molded into the body qualify. A rear bumper is not required on a flatbed, but adding one to the flatbed will gain the additional scale points. (Bumpers are measured from the outsides and must be the width of your windshield).

• Wheels must be aligned within the body wheel wells (center of wheels to center of wheel wells +/- 1/2 inch total combined)

• The vehicles body must be mostly intact. Only mild trimming such as flairs & removing a hardtop are allowed. If the hardtop is removed, a full interior is required (no extreme trimming of bodies allowed *See below.)

• The tread of the tires cannot extend outside of the wheel wells more then 1/2 of the tread width, flairs can be added to reach min. spec.

• Vehicle must run a full length rail chassis (The rail chassis must be as long as the vehicles wheelbase)(Tamiya CC-01 chassis are allowed).

• Truggies are not allowed, flatbeds with full length rail chassis are allowed. The bed must be as wide as the cab the entire length of the bed. Cab only not allowed.

• Tires can never extend beyond the body’s bumpers or the rear of any truck bed. (Any stingers, fairleads, shackles, bolts, etc are not considered part of a bumper when determining this.)

• Dovetailing is not allowed.

• Sectioning or narrowing of the body is not allowed.

• Bobbing a truck bed is allowed, but must follow all body specs.

• Boat sides are not allowed.

• 106mm / 4.19" Max tire size including spares.
• Gates will be a minimum of 11" wide (so mind your width).

Are there any areas you guys with scale comp experience can see I may have problems???
 
Nice job on the bracket! Sometimes lo-tech is best anyway! "thumbsup" Look forward to seeing the rest of this project
 
There are many more brackets like those to be built yet! Both ends of the panhard, shock mounts, servo bracket(s), and most likely the tabs for the upper links will be built the same way and bolted on to the frame rails. Eventually, all of these little brackets will be painted satin black, with a gloss chassis, links, and other details.
 
Gotta get materials and more parts still. With my CVDs and zero ackerman knuckles this rig has a lot of steering angle. So much that an L-Trail chassis is too wide in the front. The tires actually hit the chassis and lower links. Currently I'm considering using my original idea of the c channel chassis, but making it narrower in the front similar to a 1:1 Samurai. This would allow clearance for the front tires under full lock. Using the LCC outers and axles will keep my steering angle about the same, but with a wider track, and stronger parts. I'm hoping I can find a shallow set of wheels to actually narrow it back to where I am now, but without the scrub radius in the steering.

Make sense? No? Now you know where I'm at with this whole deal. There are literally a million ways I can build this, but I have a certain look I'm after. That means I have to weigh each decision and how it will affect the rest of the rig. For instance, if I make the chassis 2mm too wide, the shocks won't fit outboard of the chassis. 2mm too narrow means the servo won't fit where I want. With the inclusion of a panhard bar, things get tight and take a lot of thought. I could just slap it all together, but what good would a panhard bar be that still causes bump steer?

Like I said, this will be a long build...
 
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Well guys, I need your help. I really wanted to build my own chassis for this project, but don't have the time for it now. I think for the time being I'm going to try to find an L-Trail chassis and mod it for the 3-link in the front and with the panhard and CMS. Later on the c channel chassis will evolve...

This is the part where ya'll come in...does anybody have a set of side plates from an L-Trail that they'd like to part with? I have lots of stuff to trade, including Pro chassis parts and Ti plates. PM me if you're interested.
 
thats going to make a sweet setup!!


heres my 5 cents...
ditch the HR gears they suk. JMO... CMS is a PITA on these things unless you find a very strong mini servo. but still possible"thumbsup", and mostly have fun!!

always tinkering with my lil tj and its alot of fun, different for sure. I like where this is headed and your doner rig is perfect.

BTW, I have an l-trail chassis but its a complete rtr built c1 scaler. Ill sell it cheap:mrgreen:
 
AxialJeepster- thanks for all the help. Also, I PM'ed you about the other rig. I don't really need another one, but it runs and drives right now. I could run it while this one is under the knife.

I absolutely plan on the CMS being a PITA. I plan to use a Turnigy TGY-1501MG on the chassis, over 200 oz. for $12! I had one on the rig to begin with, and it was an awesome servo. Unfortunately, the motor in it got sacrificed to one of my Micro projects while this rig was sitting.

While digging through page upon page of 3 link information tonight, I realized that the upper link placement has a lot to do with how a 3 link transmits torque to the ground. After coming upon this knowledge, I have since decided to make a second front link bracket so I have the option of switching the upper link placement to the other side if needed. This gives me the option of just swapping the existing plate for the new one if I find torque twist, roll, dive, or lift to be a problem. I'd like to have options BEFORE the truck goes together. This way, I can simply swap brackets, move the link, and be on my way. Nothing worse than shelving a truck you just built ten minutes into the first session because it drives like @$$ and you don't have time to build more parts!

I honestly think that I won't have any problems with the existing stuff after playing with how a track bar would effect the geometry. This rig will sit fairly far into droop, leaving the only place for the axle to go being down. As the axle falls, the panhard will pull it to the "driver's side." Effectively lengthening the upper link, raising the pinion, and working against torque forces. Conversely, this opposing torque action between the link and the torque in the drivetrain could lock the suspension under power, or cause the truck to lift.

Yee-haw, this is gonna be fun!
 
Whew... Panhard bracket done! Well, mocked up and ready to slim down a little...

Once again, copy and paste from Facebook, descriptions below pics. Questions or comments? Lets hear em...

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Panhard bracket mocked up on axle. This is a spare housing. All these parts will be transferred to a new housing with new gears (stock ring gear, Traxxas overdrive mod) and bearings, my aluminum C hubs off my Pro, aluminum zero ackerman knuckles, brass king pins, and M3 stainless hardware. The panhard that is on the axle is a junk link I just bent up for mock up. Notice also, M2 screw in the tab through the housing. This will tie into the stainless beef tubes going through the housing.

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You can see how the panhard bracket lines up with the shock and link screws. This thing shouldn't go anywhere. Panhard and upper links will be Traxxas rod ends and custom links. The lowers will be MRC rod ends and custom links. I've also left enough meat in the bracket to redrill it to tie into the back of the D-Lux Fab or BWD link mounts. If I can get the CVs to last this setup will stay. If not, I'll get the D-Lux LCC adapters. Either way, this axle should be pure mini beef!

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It's tight, and I did have to do a little shaving of the lower shock tab. I still need to fab a solid spacer between the shock mount and the panhard bracket, but it's RIGID! The bracket should add enough strength to not worry. If I do break a link mount off the housing I have other options...

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BTW, between the tab in the front being "keyed" into the slot I cut in the front of the housing, a tight fit around the housing, wedging between the raised sections of the housing where the c hubs sit and the link tab, and the c hubs themselves, this thing barely moves with NO screws. It literally slips over the housing. There's nowhere for it to go, but up and down...
 
So, what's the deal? All I wanted was a little feedback about where I'm headed with this thing. The only people that have said a word are the people I've been talking to through PMs about other rigs. Are MRCs like the plague or what? I really don't get it, but I don't post for my health, and I'm NOT buying an Axial just to make everybody happy. This is what I have, and I'm busting my ass to make it competitive without going broke (did that when I built it as a comp rig)...
 
You got an MRC build? Got a link to a build thread? They're few and far between, so I always try to check out any I see...
 
i think you've got mad skills sir. mrc's aren't dead, just uncommon for 1.9 scalers. usually only used for 1.5 scalers. there have been alot of great mrc scale builds, and this is looking to be one. keep up the good work, and dont let the lack of replies bring you down."thumbsup"
 
Thanks a ton guys! Some times all a guy needs to hear are a few positive comments. Nothing worse than just hoping you're headed in the right direction.

BTW, for those wandering, this will be wearing 1.9s, slammed as low as she'll go, have around 50 degrees of steering, a ton of caster, the overdriven front end, and my Novak on 3s. Mini or not, this ought to go like a bat outta hell!
 
Well, got held up for a few days on the Sami project with this little guy I picked up from a local club member. Stock MRC RTR everything, 3/16" solid rod tube cage, and Dingo panels. The only things I've changed are, added the Blue Claws from my MRC comp rig with 2.5 ounces of lead added all around, eliminated the electronics tray, moved the stock chassis higher into the tuber top (zip-tied in place currently), moved the shocks outboard on the axles, used cable clamps to outboard the upper ends of the shocks, short stroke Losi aluminum Mini Late Model shocks with front medium mini t springs and softs in the rear. Sooner or later the shocks will actually be mounted on tabs welded into the chassis and this will be a loaner rig.

It's ugly, heavy, looks and acts like a DIY Yamaha Rhino type rig going down the trail, and I don't think there are two parallel tubes on the whole thing. Yet, despite it's flaws, it's a f@wking riot!

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LiPo is my own addition, though no cut-off yet. Haven't run a pack under 7.18V yet!

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Had to get a few with the very patient, VERY pregnant girlfriend of mine. Not only did she follow me around while I "played with my toy truck," she took most of the pictures.
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