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3D Printing help

It feels good to have my printer back!

Thank you everyone for the help. This thread started out as the thread for what printer to buy, and then slowly morphed into the “print not sticking” thread that sorta died lol.

Now it’s time to continue on my TRX4 build[emoji106]


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Make sure you check the nozzle while it is warm to make sure it is tight. Was it loose when you unscrewed it to remove for cleaning?
 
You might be past this point already but yes, definitely cut out the compromised filament.

Running a Bowden tube is tricky enough that the last thing you need is extra friction/load in the system..


Yes, I have done a few prints and they have turned out great, probably the best prints I’ve done. I’ll post up a few pictures.

https://postimg.cc/w3s77xjq
https://postimg.cc/jwB2ZmZY


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Just casual observation I’ve never 3D printed...but it seems like most of your troubles are due to the ‘Bowden tube’- is it necessary for printing? In my playbook less variables = more betterer
 
Just casual observation I’ve never 3D printed...but it seems like most of your troubles are due to the ‘Bowden tube’- is it necessary for printing? In my playbook less variables = more betterer


Yes. My setup, I have to have it due to it not being a direct drive. But, I think you could set it up to where you don’t need one. I think you’ll always need a Bowden tube no matter what, but I’m no expert so I can’t tell you for sure.


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Ahh. I just saw someone mention that they don't use one in the responses, must be a different setup. I'm 'shopping' for a printer and after seeing your struggles with this one it got me thinking maybe there's a less headaches version. Kind of went through it in my mind and it's a relatively simple process, honestly I'm more worried about wasting hours on crappy designs than getting it to work lol. But I'd like to print up some fender flares, bumpers, and cross members for my new rig eventually instead of buying them. Maybe some wheels if I ever get really good at it :)
 
Ahh. I just saw someone mention that they don't use one in the responses, must be a different setup. I'm 'shopping' for a printer and after seeing your struggles with this one it got me thinking maybe there's a less headaches version. Kind of went through it in my mind and it's a relatively simple process, honestly I'm more worried about wasting hours on crappy designs than getting it to work lol. But I'd like to print up some fender flares, bumpers, and cross members for my new rig eventually instead of buying them. Maybe some wheels if I ever get really good at it :)


I had like 10 people recommended the Ender 3 to me, and for only $250-$300 it really is a good printer. The reason I have been having problems is just making rookie mistakes like leaving the filament in the hot end while I’m not printing. That is probably the worst thing you can do other than hitting print and walking away.

If you do get a printer, I highly recommend it. I have been making amazing prints(IMO) since I figured out what I was doing was messing it up, not the actual printer malfunctioning. It’s definitely worth it, I’ve already printed many things that I’ve never seen for sale.


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I'll keep it short, the Prusa MK3S has been great for me personally. Its definitely more expensive, but it doesn't "need" upgrades or much if any troubleshooting. I know its easy to not value our own time but I think not having to pour time into getting it working right was worth the extra cost.

Though with the Prusa you dont learn as much as if you were constantly troubleshooting.

I cant knock the Creality offerings but It seems like most users dont end up with a Creality in the end they end up with a highly modded and customized Creality. Theres nothing wrong with that as long as you know it going in.

This is more aimed at Phildirt not you ScaleLifeNewbie so please dont take offense.
 
I'll keep it short, the Prusa MK3S has been great for me personally. Its definitely more expensive, but it doesn't "need" upgrades or much if any troubleshooting. I know its easy to not value our own time but I think not having to pour time into getting it working right was worth the extra cost.

Though with the Prusa you dont learn as much as if you were constantly troubleshooting.

I cant knock the Creality offerings but It seems like most users dont end up with a Creality in the end they end up with a highly modded and customized Creality. Theres nothing wrong with that as long as you know it going in.

This is more aimed at Phildirt not you ScaleLifeNewbie so please dont take offense.


Yeah, I have definitely heard great things about the Prusa machines. I sometimes enjoy working on it, but other times it’s a headache. Definitely some crazy modded Enders out there.


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Ahh. I just saw someone mention that they don't use one in the responses, must be a different setup. I'm 'shopping' for a printer and after seeing your struggles with this one it got me thinking maybe there's a less headaches version. Kind of went through it in my mind and it's a relatively simple process, honestly I'm more worried about wasting hours on crappy designs than getting it to work lol. But I'd like to print up some fender flares, bumpers, and cross members for my new rig eventually instead of buying them. Maybe some wheels if I ever get really good at it :)
There are way better offerings nowadays out there ...the ender3 is a 5 year old design and even the more advanced models are more for the technical inclined who love to tinker .
If you want good prints right out of the box you cant go wrong with a Artillery genius or a Prusa MK3"thumbsup"
 
There are way better offerings nowadays out there ...the ender3 is a 5 year old design and even the more advanced models are more for the technical inclined who love to tinker .
If you want good prints right out of the box you cant go wrong with a Artillery genius or a Prusa MK3"thumbsup"

What's the "way better offerings" in the same price range? As far as the MK3, I agree it is great from what I've seen, but nothing beats an Ender 3 for the price as far as I'm aware. That's a $543 difference between it and the Ender 3 for a "better" printer that has a 10mm smaller build volume. I've had great prints right after assembling. Lets make this clear, the problems I was having was rookie mistakes on my end. If I had never done that, I would've never had problems. And after fixing, I am getting great prints again. IMO, you really can't go wrong with an Ender 3, It's cheap, does a great job, easy to assemble, easy to use, and great for my newbie self.

As far as being technically inclined, if you can work on an RC you can assemble,maintain, fix and use a printer. It's not the hardest thing in the world. If you treat it right/do regular maintenance, you'll have no problems, and definitely wont go through what I went through. If I can do it, y'all can do it:lmao:

HumboltEF, you have a MK3, would you say it's worth the extra $550ish? If so, what features does it have that make it worth that much? I know you said the MK3 doesn't need upgrades/troubleshooting, but if your only doing PLA and PETG, you don't really need upgrades on the Ender than a Capricorn Bowden, right? Not being a smart-ass, but legitimately asking because I have a spool of PETG that I want to start printing with when I get good at printing in PLA.

All in all, I think the Ender is superior in that price range without a doubt, which makes it a great option. I can't recommend it enough for beginners, or even Veterans that want a cheap printer.
 
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Just casual observation I’ve never 3D printed...but it seems like most of your troubles are due to the ‘Bowden tube’- is it necessary for printing? In my playbook less variables = more betterer

You're spot on with your gut feelings there.

Bowden tubes are a throwback to 8-10 years ago but for some reason a lot the industry is hung up on thinking they should keep making them (honestly, sometimes I think it's just a sales gimmick). It adds complexity, increases the number of potential trouble spots, complicates your physical set up, increases load on the extruder motor (arguably the "busiest" motor during any print) and provides no significant benefit.

The original thought process behind using a Bowden tube was to reduce the mass of components mounted on that axis gantry, thereby allowing higher print speeds and reducing wear on components. It may slightly reduce wear on components but that really just benefits bearings and bearings on printers rarely actually get worn enough to require replacement. Also, both hardware & software technology has gotten so much better that we're all maxing out print speed anyways. So all in all, a Bowden tube set up is striving to provide 2 potential benefits that are both effectively imaginary.

This is why Prusa (who has always been on the leading edge of improving printing tech) hasn't used a Bowden tube in years.

For most people, it's not worth the headache of re-configuring a machine to be a direct drive, although it can be done on any machine I've ever seen. As long as users are able to make it work then there's no harm in having a Bowden, but anytime I'm trying to help people figure why they keep getting jams one of my early recommendations is to delete the Bowden..


**DISCLAIMER**
I don't intend these comments to be slagging on anyone's set-up or on any printers in particular, just the facts as I've experienced them over 5 years of having a printer and 2 years of running a fleet of 18 machines. I also acknowledge that my experiences equate to being my opinions and not everyone might agree with me.
 
Sorry if I opened a can of worms there, not my intention. I am a budget shopper and don't mind older technology, I had an Iphone 6 up until the beginning of this year LOL. Just asking questions.
 
All in all, I think the Ender is superior in that price range without a doubt, which makes it a great option. I can't recommend it enough for beginners, or even Veterans that want a cheap printer.
:lmao: says the teenager who has as much insight on 3d printing as DaVinci had on rocket science!

I really didnt want to answer on one of your nonsens posts ....but you really crack me up, son.:lmao:
 
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:lmao: says the teenager who has as much insight on 3d printing as DaVinci had on rocket science!

I really didnt want to answer on one of your nonsens posts ....but you really crack me up, son.:lmao:


Then why even come here then if you not going to back your posts up?

The only printers I see in that price range are Chinese knockoffs that are worthless. Prove me wrong, I’d love to be wrong.

I’m not here to argue with you, because this thread isn’t going to be wasted like that, but how is my post “nonsense”? I gave my reasoning on why the Ender 3 is the best for that price range, and clearly I’m not the only one. Look at the first 5 or so posts in this thread. Serious question, do you even have a printer, Mr. MountianTroll?


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Sorry if I opened a can of worms there, not my intention. I am a budget shopper and don't mind older technology, I had an Iphone 6 up until the beginning of this year LOL. Just asking questions.

I'd recommend the Ender 3 v2 or Pro - I don't think there's anything out there that can beat its price/performance especially with the Ender 3's community backing. Anecdotal, but after following (Chep's?) assembly, I've not had to do anything but toss on a glass bed (warped aluminum) and level every 3-4mo.

For an Ender 3, if you plan to print everything on thingiverse and keep the printer running hours daily, you'll need to plan on upgrading/replacing things. If you're just doing it to print some RC stuff off over time, you'll likely make it through quite a few spools before you need to do much (that you can't readily print).

If you want to spend more than $300 up front, i'd start looking at Prusa or a brand from which you can expect warranty/support to support the investment.

E: As for bowden tube... I've always heard they cause problems, but haven't had a need to replace/adjust one yet in 3 years.
 
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