westerlycarrot9
Pebble Pounder
Good evening people. I'm trying to understand how the Amps of an ESC can affect the performance (speed, torque etc) of an rc car combined with the specs of the motor and the battery.
Update, i had some time this weekend, and tore the rig down for maintenance.
I found a drive shaft set screw rubbing the transmission case, thus the surging! I guess the power of the trail master overwhelmed it in normal power, but not going downhill and on the flats.
Lesson learned always check mechanical before blaming electronics....
Think of the amp limit like a fuse, if you exceed it, it can burn up. And it's not easy to find out how many amps you have, the battery amps is not the amps the esc is talking about.Good evening people. I'm trying to understand how the Amps of an ESC can affect the performance (speed, torque etc) of an rc car combined with the specs of the motor and the battery.
Another point, two main ways to increase amperage are as follows.Good evening people. I'm trying to understand how the Amps of an ESC can affect the performance (speed, torque etc) of an rc car combined with the specs of the motor and the battery.
Another point, two main ways to increase amperage are as follows.
You can get a faster motor of the same size by getting a lower turn motor. (you can also convert this speed into torque by gearing down.
Or you can get a higher torque motor of the same speed by getting a larger motor.
More amps means more power,
Power can be speed or torque or both, it can also just be more heat but let's ignore that for simplicity.
Now since our motors have more power and thus a higher amp draw, our battery will not last as long and our runtime will be reduced.
Another way to increase amp draw is by increasing the battery voltage. Doubling your voltage will double your torque, speed and amp draw.
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When you say "More amps mean more power" you mean the ESC's amps right? What about the C discharge rate on LiPo batteries? Is this a contributing factor as well?
So basically if i want better performance whether that means speed or torque i should mess around with amperage and amperage draw right?
Also if we have an rc dragster.
That is all about fast takeoff.
Telling the dragster to go from 0 to 60mph in 1 second requires a massive amount of amps (let's say 200 amps).
But driving a quarter mile at 60mph may only have an amp draw of 25amps.
So in the case of a dragster and the short amp burst. A low c rating cannot supply enough power, so the dragster starts slow, or the esc glitches out, or the battery over heats.
It's not that higher c rating makes you start faster, it's that too low of a c rating is inefficent and potential dangerous.
So our 200 amp dragster has a 2000mah 10c battery. This means the battery is rated to allow for 20 amps. The dragster will start slow and never get to 60 mph. The battery will get damaged, hot and unsafe.
Again with a 200 amp dragster that has a 2000mah 50c (that's 100 amps) the dragster will start kinda slow and will eventually get to 60mph, the battery is working beyond its safety limits, and is probably getting hot. This will cause damage to battery, and reduce the overall life of the battery.
Again with a 200 amp dragster that has a 2000mah 100c (that's 200 amp rating). The dragster takes off at full speed and reaches 60mph at minimal time. But we are pushing the battery to its limit, it may still be warm. Probably No damage to battery
Again with a 200 amp dragster that has a 2000mah 200c (that's 400 amp rating). The dragster takes off at full speed and reaches 60mph at minimal time. But now the battery is well in its safe range. No damage to battery
Again with a 200 amp dragster that has a 2000mah 1000c (that's 2000 amp rating). The dragster takes off at full speed and reaches 60mph at minimal time. Zero performance increase over 100c rating. But easy for battery to handle. No damage to battery
So you will only see a performance gain if the battery you have is being pushed beyond its c rating. (again there are performance gains but for simplicity sake, it's pretty minor gains)
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At 7.2V (no load) it draws 1.25A and at 7.2V (max. efficiency) it draws 4.62A. So even if i use a 3S LiPo which if i'm correct is a 11.1V battery, the 80A ESC can still work without any problems. The 55T version of the same motor draws less Amps, specifically 0,75A at no load and 3.35A at max. efficiancy,
But the max load amperage is not listed. Max load would be when a wheel is bound up and can't turn but you apply power. Your 0.75A motor is probably over 100A if you power it when the wheels are locked. The amp draw of the motor is not constant. It increases as you increase load to the motor, like having a heavier rig.
You don't really need to think about it all that much. Basicaly if you want more power get a bigger or lower turn motor. If you have the trx4 sport you can get a 45t spur also.
Brushless motors offer more torque and speed as well. The Puller pro is pretty good if it's within your price range. I like the 2200kv on 4s. Then I gear it down.
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That's right!Is there a way to calculate something like that? Well i'd like to dive deep into that stuff in order to know exactly what i'm getting when buying electronics and how to better pair a motor with an esc etc. Hmm i can understand brushless motors being able to produce more speed but torque too? I suppose that KV doesn't stand for kilovolts right?
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Hmm i can understand brushless motors being able to produce more speed but torque too?
If the manifacture dosent Gove it to you then you would get it by testing. Basicaly by locking the armature in place and mashing the throttle for a split second and measuring the amp draw. The mamba x and other logging esc's can tell you your amp draw over time also. The hobbywing 1080 dosent log the information.That's right!Is there a way to calculate something like that? Well i'd like to dive deep into that stuff in order to know exactly what i'm getting when buying electronics and how to better pair a motor with an esc etc. Hmm i can understand brushless motors being able to produce more speed but torque too? I suppose that KV doesn't stand for kilovolts right?
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As far as the ESC goes, the Mamba X for sensored is the best available IMO.
If you were looking at a Revolver or other sensorless motor, then yes the SW4 would probably be the better choice for 2/3s use.
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What he said. I would choose a standard over a stubby for a bigger rig. They run cooler.