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My car audio build

peyton.

Quarry Creeper
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
291
Location
lake elsinore
So I'm putting in a tri amp system in my truck, and decided to make a build thread. I just bought a 03 ex cab ranger, had a 03 single cab taco with a 2 amp setup. Couple weeks ago on my 18th I sold the taco and bought this ranger.

Here's my list of equipment I have:(some 'installed' some not)
Clarion 7" double din
Z edition 4.400 amp
Alpine pdx 1.100
0 gauge power cable for the alpine
4gauge for the z edition
4 2.5(?) inch bravox 60w rms tweeters
4 6.x9 re audio 100rms speakers
1 12" re audio seX d2
100ft of 8 gauge wire
2 12" sealed boxes
2 static reducers


Stuff on the way:
12ft 0 gauge power cable
6ft 0 gauge gnd cable
20ft remote wire
3 round rocker switches
2.240(?) kicker amp
Big ass capacitor

On my list to buy:
Lots of dynomat(sp?)
Window tint
Bigger alternator
More static reducers (speaker and RCA)
Bass reducers
Bass controller

Most of it showed today!


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Pulled the headunit out of my taco and havent put the proper install kit on it yet, thus the pen don't worry it's temporary.


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6 years ago when my brother was a junior in highschool his gf at the time bought this truck, I knew i was gunna own it one day from the moment I saw it. Here she is

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Looks like youve got some good components to work with, if only I could hear it when its finished:shock:

I like the stance of your truck for not having any or much lift at all, my buddy had the same truck but yellow clearing 32s it looked good too!

Since your going to be running 3 amps and a chit ton of speakers id look into making a fiberglass enclosure with built in amp racks, it makes for a much cleaner install and gives it the custom look. There are tons of videos on youtube of how to make fiberglass enclosures.

Just a few suggestions, get yourself a nice car alarm and fire extinguisher, and also if you have to cross signal wires with power wires to the amp try to make the junction at a 90 degree as it will help reduce noise.

P.S. dont forget inline fuses for the power wires to your amps
 
I already see my two favorite letters in any system build - RE

I ran RE audio XXX's and killed every spl comp I entered in. And I built it for sound quality too so it sounded great as well.

Good luck, and Subscribed "thumbsup"
 
Was gunna do a update, buuuuutttt I realized my truck needs 6x8's, not 6x9's.
So I had to order new ones. Re doesn't make them that size. So I changed up my attack. And got some infiniti kappa coxials.

Hope they can keep up with the re subs.


I put 2 of the re's in the rear(ghetto) and they sounded so nice.

Hopefully the infinitis can keep up. They are the rated the same
 
My old 93 ranger was the same with 6x8" speakers in the rearx must be a Ford thing.

Been that way for Ford/Mazda for about as long as I can remember...

side note: the difference between 6x8" and 5x7" is almost non-existent. Also, you can make an adapter to run 6.5" rounds in the front w/ no problems. I'm running 6.5" bravox components in my 06 ranger.


@peyton: kappas are nice drivers, I think you'll be pretty happy with them.
 
Why not just make an adapter plate out of 1/4" MDF?

My buddy actually has some mdf we're gunna play with. I like the re's so I wanna make that work in the rear but I like the stock look, I want to make it look sleeper, don't want anyone looking in and seeing aftermarket speakers. That worries me most because I go to night school
 
I like RE Stuff... that 0ga will be plenty big for all that ya got, that Alpine is so efficient that it doesn't draw as much as a crappy 1k watt amp, just put a large enough fuse near the battery and a fused distribution block in the back matching the amps needs to the fuse size.. The big cap wont do much good without a good battery. Upgrade the ground from the battery to chassis, and from engine to chassis. you shouldnt need the bass blockers, your HU should have HPF and LPF built in, if not your amp should have it too. What you gettin the 2.240 for? I am still working on my system in my expedition, but my Audi has an all eclipse system (hu, components, amps, and sub), and my focus has kenwood deck, and Alpine amp and sub, and memphis door speakers.
 
quick update, i cleaned all the wiring up,

the 0 gauge i bought showed up as 4 gauge. SO PISSED about that.

to make it worse my upper ball joints are bad, so i have to put my audio build on pause till i get that fixed.
 
quick update, i cleaned all the wiring up,

the 0 gauge i bought showed up as 4 gauge. SO PISSED about that.

to make it worse my upper ball joints are bad, so i have to put my audio build on pause till i get that fixed.

Man you sure have some bad luck with your stereo equipment purchases:ror:

Once I get my jeep back together and rollin I'm going to redo the whole stereo setup. Id love to put my Orion H2 12" sub in the jeep but I dont think I have enough room for a proper sized box behind the back seat:x
 
Don't buy a capacitor, they are a waste of money! Instead invest in a good quality battery and a high output alternator.

Just my .2
 
Don't buy a capacitor, they are a waste of money! Instead invest in a good quality battery and a high output alternator.

Just my .2

too late, id figure id try it.



i got my kappa's installed.

need some help, when the truck is on im getting (alternator) noise, it gets louder the more i rev, so im assuming its alternator.

the rca's are wired on the other side of power cables so there is no interference, also i think another problem is the way the power/memory is going to the head unit isn't exactly right, because when the remote wire touches a 12+, the ignition beeper dings(accidently touched them)

got my new sub box ready, had to 'lift' the sub in the box cause the box was too small, the cu. feet are good and it sounds way cleaner.

going to turn it into the jumper seat soon
 
too late, id figure id try it.



i got my kappa's installed.

need some help, when the truck is on im getting (alternator) noise, it gets louder the more i rev, so im assuming its alternator.

the rca's are wired on the other side of power cables so there is no interference, also i think another problem is the way the power/memory is going to the head unit isn't exactly right, because when the remote wire touches a 12+, the ignition beeper dings(accidently touched them)

got my new sub box ready, had to 'lift' the sub in the box cause the box was too small, the cu. feet are good and it sounds way cleaner.

going to turn it into the jumper seat soon

Look at the noise that the ground signal will grab on it's way from your ground location to the ground location of the battery. If you don't believe any other devices are contributing to the noise on the ground pathway you can put the deck and amps on a common ground.

Does your hu not have memory? Did you make your own harness? Do you have access to a pinout of your stock clip?

I'm half talking out of my ass, I'm sure some far more qualified people will chime in. Do you post on diymobileaudio.com? It's quite a resource.
 
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My only criticism is build your own ported box from mdf with the proper paramaters. I would suggest downfire ports and subs. On a sidenote here is a project I helped out with. It was in a ranger like yours and did 150+Db with a musical tuning.
 

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