• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

WIP Trail *Pre-* Runner

smc-93

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
466
Location
Blaine
I've been wanting to build a 1:10 Baja/pre-runner for a while but I needed the right kit to start building off of.

Along come the Trail Runner. Finally a 1:10 scale truck with a live axle rear and IFS. With its gigantic, dopey looking IFS. So i bought a used TR, with the intention of finding a way to tuck the IFS up closer to the frame.

Today, I've managed to figure out the bulk of the work. I will need to shorted the front drive shaft and skids, figure out the steering and find some slightly longer half shafts. Currently awaiting a rear trailing are conversion as well, should be here by the weekend.
72c0b01b0c1fbb8331ecf467cf436b01.jpg
6ef8c4ca5bd8d3c212961a08d0dc99d5.jpg


It's has a lot more travel in the front now. The camber changes a bit throughout the full range of travel but there's only some much I can do with all stock parts. The camber change won't really matter once it's wrapped in a Pro-line ranger pre-runner body.
f114ceacc3723045dbdeb1f5f2bcf806.jpg
b6eed7a53c2c3f94f22a2c57167aaaa2.jpg


Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
(Watching with interest...)

"thumbsup"
 
About time someone got rid of that hideous IFS plate! That was one thing I can’t stand about the IFS, it’s so huge and out of scale.

I like the camber change. A 1:1 long travel IFS would do pretty much the same thing. I think it makes it a lot more realistic.

Subbed[emoji1688] (if that word even matters anymore lmao)


_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

SCX10ii Yota
TRX-4 Bronco
 
I'm glad I could spark some interest [emoji16].

I'll be trying to work out the steering and modifying the skids over the weekend. Possibly fitting the body as well if it shows up when expected.

Looking at some more references photos of long travel 4x4 IFS and I-beam IFS, I'm quite happy with the camber change. Once the trailing arm conversion shows up, I might need to do some more adjustment though in order to increase the front ride height while maintaining 0° camber at the desired height. Creating some additional negative camber under compression to tuck the tires under the body a bit more wouldn't hurt my feelings either.

If everything goes to plan, and everything turns out the way I want, I might have to buy some extra Element IFS kits and convert them into bolt Pre-runner kits. As it stands right now, it's bolts up the same as the stock kit. But the steering rack will end up in front of the differential rather than stacked on top.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I think I've figured out how I'm going to do the steering, I don't want to discuss the details until I throw it together and see if it'll work the way it does in my head. I'm posting this sort-of update to ask for some advice on the next step to take though.

In order to limit the stress on the steering geometry (as signed in my head) I'll need to buy a low profile servo. Low profile servos don't appear to be to strong and I know nothing of their reliability (without spending full size servo price), put that in a go-fast(ish) and I feel like I might need a servo saver to avoid killing the servo on rough terrain.

My questions, has anybody tried using a stiff, scale friction shock as a steering link? Hopefully the shock could remaining stiff enough to get accurate steering but compress under a sudden impact to the steering. Can anybody recommend a low profile servo, with a decent amount of power, in the $30-$70 range?
 
Last edited:
I wrote up a big paragraph of why a fluid damper is a bad idea in this scenario with the conclusion that you'd be better off leaving the fluid out which would make it behave a lot like a dedicated servo saver - which upon re-reading your question is exactly what you were asking :lmao: (reading comprehension"thumbsup")


Now I'm curious too.
 
I wrote up a big paragraph of why a fluid damper is a bad idea in this scenario with the conclusion that you'd be better off leaving the fluid out which would make it behave a lot like a dedicated servo saver - which upon re-reading your question is exactly what you were asking :lmao: (reading comprehension"thumbsup")


Now I'm curious too.
I have a pair of RC4WD 70mm shocks. I might give it a shot after I pick up a LP servo

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
I think I've figured out how I'm going to do the steering, I don't want to discuss the details until I throw it together and see if it'll work the way it does in my head. I'm posting this sort-of update to ask for some advice on the next step to take though.

In order to limit the stress on the steering geometry (as signed in my head) I'll need to buy a low profile servo. Low profile servos don't appear to be to strong and I know nothing of their reliability (without spending full size servo price), put that in a go-fast(ish) and I feel like I might need a servo saver to avoid killing the servo on rough terrain.

My questions, has anybody tried using a stiff, scale friction shock as a steering link? Hopefully the shock could remaining stiff enough to get accurate steering but compress under a sudden impact to the steering. Can anybody recommend a low profile servo, with a decent amount of power, in the $30-$70 range?

Check this servo.

Shorty profile, and 20kg at 8.4v

https://www.sendit-rc.com/servos/0tsa87z1ohgh0ygw7j1y1sq0zkfab8?category=HV271
 
e05f827182bd590b788709ca0a43b757.jpg

My steering works! The plan I had rolling around in my head works perfectly (minus steering servo. I have some single piece aluminum spacers coming in the mail as well, the stacked shock stand-offs are only temporary. ATM)
76de1d4359c7f9568186a9bf19a24a84.jpg
6a4e2175538ce9f4441b994b1e49eec8.jpg
751ebf8afef026544e601deba0771c30.jpg


I installed some o-rings behind the drive cups to act as springs and push the drive cup out towards the half shaft. It's not a perfect solution, it'll require some limiting straps and some thing to lock them in place, but it'll do for now.
57859b751e299fc27cabfc2963412aa5.jpg


Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
That's looks like exactly what I'm looking for. I think I'll be buying one of those of I can't find something equivalent at my LHS this weekend

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

There is a new one for sale on one of the facebook RC groups.

RC Junkies buy sell trade.
 
I bought a "Send It RC" low profile servo. It fits perfect with a few aluminum spacers I had laying around. I got a bunch of the body work done as well.

I need to cut out and install the final fender flare and do all the final cuts on the body, all the finishing work around the edges, then take it all apart again for paint.

f51df7d901e9a76fda74eaa25fca9ef5.jpg
14917c81cd04f1e4ee9a576c87d8e5b6.jpg
7823bd3aab910bfe325c9ae713884db5.jpg

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Is that cage from the Axial classic F100? It looks like it goes really well with the body.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Is that cage from the Axial classic F100? It looks like it goes really well with the body.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is. It has taken a bit of modification to make everything (almost) line up where I want it.
a4f3213d3fef4a680ff843a341b6e334.jpg
485779383d7b6ad36f8334dc0aee6d6e.jpg



Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
This is almost EXACTLY what I have been wanting to build!!!
Very nicely executed! Might have to use some of your tricks but I will eliminate front drivetrain entirely.
I will be going for a more... "retro raptor" approach ;)

Looking REALLY good man!!!
 
This is almost EXACTLY what I have been wanting to build!!!
Very nicely executed! Might have to use some of your tricks but I will eliminate front drivetrain entirely.
I will be going for a more... "retro raptor" approach ;)

Looking REALLY good man!!!
I plan on eliminating the front drivetrain as well, I just haven't bothered trying to remove the half shafts yet. Eventually I'll have a 3D printer spacer made to take the place of the front differential as well

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
You are a bad influence, now for some reason I have a ranger body and an ifs kit sitting around with a puller pro motor begging to get used….. now what chassis?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You are a bad influence, now for some reason I have a ranger body and an ifs kit sitting around with a puller pro motor begging to get used….. now what chassis?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm sorry? You're welcome? Whichever is more applicable.

If I'm feeling up to it this weekend, I want to finish the body work (-paint), notch the rear shock towers and back of the cab to get the cage to sit correctly over the chassis and figure out how to remove the front half shafts from the stub axles.

I've got some ideas floating around in my head for a new skid plate that'll wrap from the Axial f100 bumper all the way back to the center skid. It should be a pretty simple ([emoji1696]) design, cut, bend and install seeing as how the front bulkhead now sits slightly higher than the center skid.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Back
Top