Wheel size VS Tire Size

[Jackson233]

I am looking for tires for these rims easily, and am unsure about what size tires will work on them.

Wheels...
Specifications:
Material: Metal Alloy
Quantity: 4Pcs
​Color: Green/Yellow
Weight: 108g/pc
Outer Diameter: 54mm / 2.13in
​Inner Diameter: 43mm / 1.69in
Driver Hex: 12mm / 0.47in
​Center Aperture: 5mm / 0.2in
Thickness: 26mm / 1.02in
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32959641661.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3da24c4dFn77y0

My inexperience, hence uncertainty comes from the inner diameter being 1.69". Does this mean I can't use a narrower tire than 1.69"? If I can go narrower, could I use BFGoodrich All-Terrain KO2 1.9" G8 Rock Terrain Truck Tires @ 1 .4"?

Thanks for any wisdom you can share, it will be appreciated.

 

[altd896]

Your over thinking it little & confusing yourself on diameter & width (thickness they're calling it)
The width across the wheel is 1.02" which should work just fine with a 1.4" wide tire.

Exactly what it is they're calling the inside diameter I'm not sure, I suspect it's the clearance inside the backside of the wheel.

They say they're a 1.9 wheel, that means they suit a 1.9 tire.

That said the PL tires can be a little temperamental to fit to internal beadlock wheels that are designed for them.

 

[Jackson233]

Thank you for your help!

Is there a more user/newbie friendly brand for mounting with beadlocks?

 

[brian.brigg]

Most of the Chinese beadlocks are usable with the Pro-Line beads in my limited experience. Just make sure that you seat the bead nicely all the way around.

That said it can be a little difficult to get the standard screws to bite initially. All of the beadlocks that I have used were threaded rather than using the separate nuts shown in the link you provided. That's probably a good thing as you will never need to helicoil a stripped thread.

I've seen special tools for closing beadlocks and they simply clamp the wheel with a big screw through the centre hole of the wheel. With your particular choice of wheels it should be easy enough for you to get two longer screws that fit those nuts so that you can easily use the thread to close the beadlock from any two opposite holes. I would suggest at least half an inch longer. Once you have them tightened down attach the other four original screws and nuts and tighten them down. Then replace the long screws with the proper ones and repeat three more times. Four if you have a spare of the same type.

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[Jackson233]

Most of the Chinese beadlocks are usable with the Pro-Line beads in my limited experience. Just make sure that you seat the bead nicely all the way around.

That said it can be a little difficult to get the standard screws to bite initially. All of the beadlocks that I have used were threaded rather than using the separate nuts shown in the link you provided. That's probably a good thing as you will never need to helicoil a stripped thread.

I've seen special tools for closing beadlocks and they simply clamp the wheel with a big screw through the centre hole of the wheel. With your particular choice of wheels it should be easy enough for you to get two longer screws that fit those nuts so that you can easily use the thread to close the beadlock from any two opposite holes. I would suggest at least half an inch longer. Once you have them tightened down attach the other four original screws and nuts and tighten them down. Then replace the long screws with the proper ones and repeat three more times. Four if you have a spare of the same type.

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Thanks Brian, good to know. The only reason I chose those wheels is because of their color to match my Trophy Camel, otherwise I'd go with the Proline Pre mounteds.

 

[brian.brigg]

The first time I mounted tires on beadlocks I was worried as well since the tires were Pro-Line TSL XLs. Tricky the first time but after changing out foams a few times it got a lot easier, especially when I started using a couple of longer screws. You'll do okay, just get some spare screws and nuts as they seem to drop off a workbench into a black hole pretty often.

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[Panther6834]

Tricky the first time but after changing out foams a few times it got a lot easier, especially when I started using a couple of longer screws.

Personally, I like the "longer screw" idea...not 6 thread, but thank you, nonetheless. While building my Capra (my first, and currently only, crawler), until my Vanquish Methods arrived, I installed my tires on the included plastic beadlocks. Getting those things together was worse than a PitA. Once the Methods arrived, while putting them together was much easier, it was still more difficult that what I was previously used to (ie. gluing tires into off-road race wheels). Had I had a few longer screws to "start the process", it would have been much, much easier. Guess it's time to get some long M2.5 & ME screws. Thanks, again.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

 

[LincolnofDeath]

I have a set of these and the “two longer screws to hold the bead in place” tip is clutch in this case. And another thing about these particular wheels, that I ran into, I’ll leave that here just in case it comes up:

I ran these with Axial UMG10 tires and they were great. Ran a couple packs through, unmounted them to add better foam, and when I went to remount them I couldn’t get the tire lips to sit perfectly centered. Perhaps I’d tightened them down too hard in the initial build, stretching the inner tire lip by flattening it permanently toward the center axis. Or maybe the foams being overstuffed make for the difference. Shaved the foams, used five long screws, all the tricks I could think of, but eventually threw in the towel and added different tires with no further issue. The tires went back on the stock wheels fine and the Injora wheels had no problem with the next tires I tried.

So maybe just be a little cautious with how forceful you are crimping them down initially, especially if you look to change things around again. That bead lock void is pretty tight vs. tire lip overhang. I bet if I’d been a little more gentle initially those tires would have mounted right back up, or if I’d just left them on in the first place.

 

[Jackson233]

I have a set of these and the “two longer screws to hold the bead in place” tip is clutch in this case. And another thing about these particular wheels, that I ran into, I’ll leave that here just in case it comes up:

I ran these with Axial UMG10 tires and they were great. Ran a couple packs through, unmounted them to add better foam, and when I went to remount them I couldn’t get the tire lips to sit perfectly centered. Perhaps I’d tightened them down too hard in the initial build, stretching the inner tire lip by flattening it permanently toward the center axis. Or maybe the foams being overstuffed make for the difference. Shaved the foams, used five long screws, all the tricks I could think of, but eventually threw in the towel and added different tires with no further issue. The tires went back on the stock wheels fine and the Injora wheels had no problem with the next tires I tried.

So maybe just be a little cautious with how forceful you are crimping them down initially, especially if you look to change things around again. That bead lock void is pretty tight vs. tire lip overhang. I bet if I’d been a little more gentle initially those tires would have mounted right back up, or if I’d just left them on in the first place.

Where did you find your longer screws\bolts? Something I'd look for at Homedepot or a Hobby Store?

 

[LincolnofDeath]

Extras from other builds that live in a cupcake tin, in my case. But yeah, what you said, or steal something from your chassis temporarily, perhaps.