Wes's 1.9 Scaler Farm Truck Build

[WesTX]

Got this body from Timmy2Wheels that he had built for a Snocat build (search his username for the build where he did all of the body work). Had to come up with a cool build for it. Here is the parts list/build specs. Wont quite be a true scaler with the 4-link and coilovers instead of leaf springs or something similar for a classic look, had to compromise somewhere I suppose.

Tamiya Midnight Pumpkin 1953 F-100 Body (with custom paint/petina job by Timmy2Wheels)
Axial SCX10 Axles
Axial SCX10 frame with STRC Short Wheelbase Framerails and Links for 9.5-10" wheelbase
Axial Wraith stock Motor (20T) and stock Wraith Transmission/Gearing
Axial Wraith Stock ESC
Undecided on RX/TX
Gmade White Wagon Wheels (for now)
1.9 BFG Crawlers

Eventually I want to get a set of the gmade non-coated steel beadlocks and let them rust and petina on their own and run those on this truck. That will be for later on. Here are some pics of some of the pieces, the frame parts wont be in until next week, so once those come in I will get started with the build. Have a ton of stainless hardware from KNK that will be used on this project as well.

Wes

 

[WesTX]

Looks like my frame parts will be here early next week so I can get a start. Pumped about this one as a fun toy slightly less extreme versus my wraithzilla build.

Wes

 

[cheesesteakdork]

How did you get your body to look like that

 

[WesTX]

If you search username Timmy2Wheels and go to threads started by him, it's the snocat build thread. Starting on page 2 he details some of the work that went into the body. When I am on a computer next I'll add the link to this reply.

Wes

 

[Derek Larsen]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/non-...mmy2tracks-beast-east-big-block-blizzard.html

 

[Johnnysplits]

Cool project and looking forward to it's completion, but I hope you got that body cheap. Using a hard plastic body, the weathering could have been done to look exactly like a real rusted truck. IMO, you should refinish the paint and weathering. It would look so much better and very realistic.

 

[WesTX]

I guess I am confused now. The weathering and rust looks pretty dang real to me. Look at how it was done in the link posted above.

Wes

 

[Johnnysplits]

It could look like this...

 

[Johnnysplits]

Did that STRC kit come with the short links?

 

[WesTX]

Yes, the STRC Kit comes with short links.

Wes

 

[Skirts]

Thinking of getting the strc chassis for my tamiya fj body!

 

[WesTX]

Been doing more planning today, I think once I get the frame together and can put the body on it for mock up I may decide to run the GCM front motor and tranny mount with GCM transfer case in the center. We shall see, just putting my thoughts down for later reference.

Did pick up an axial ax3 Tx/RX, stock SCX shocks and stock SCX JK bumper from the RPP salvage yard for this build, so minimal out of pocket for what I needed for this build.

Wes

 

[Timmy2Wheels]

Cool project and looking forward to it's completion, but I hope you got that body cheap. Using a hard plastic body, the weathering could have been done to look exactly like a real rusted truck. IMO, you should refinish the paint and weathering. It would look so much better and very realistic.

Johnnysplits: that's actually real rust: the patina is a metal slurry, painted on and rusted. Can't get much more accurate than that on a plastic body...

And the spots are not rust, just flaking paint.

 

[Johnnysplits]

Johnnysplits: that's actually real rust: the patina is a metal slurry, painted on and rusted. Can't get much more accurate than that on a plastic body...

And the spots are not rust, just flaking paint.

I can guarantee with 100% certainty that weathering job could have come out a lot better. Weathering powders, weathering paints and an airbrush work wonders. Take a look at some model railroads, scale r/c planes and boats...some awesome weathering jobs. But that's a lot of time to do such a job which might not be worth doing unless you really want a true-to-life scale r/c model.

 

[Timmy2Wheels]

I can guarantee with 100% certainty that weathering job could have come out a lot better. Weathering powders, weathering paints and an airbrush work wonders. Take a look at some model railroads, scale r/c planes and boats...some awesome weathering jobs. But that's a lot of time to do such a job which might not be worth doing unless you really want a true-to-life scale r/c model.

No doubt, can't argue with you there...

The reason why I didn't take it to the level I took my last weathered truck to (see here)...

Timmy2Tracks Street Class Bad-Luck Hilux - Scale 4x4 R/C Forums

was a few reasons...

1: Not complete.
2: This was going to be used in snow, so fine-detailed weathering just washes off wish constant snow contact.
3: Not complete.

Let's just see how Wes decides to finish it off. It was never sold as a finished product, he is jus t picking up where I left off...

 

[Johnnysplits]

Now that's one hell of a build!! That was some sweet detailed weathering!! As far as the finish washing off, maybe a few coats of flat clear would protect it?

 

[lil' bear 4wd]

Where can i get a weathered pumpkin body like that? and how much?

 

[WesTX]

Can't buy it (unless you're lucky like me) you gotta build it. Check out the links posted earlier in this thread.

Wes

 

[WesTX]

Mocked up the chassis today and ordered material for custom links. Ordered some 8-32 stainless all thread and some 5/16" stainless tubing. Should make some nice links. Will likely replace the steering links with them as well.

Also have a CMS and Panhard Kit coming bought from some members here.

With the drop bed the bottom of the bed will sit on the frame so the SCX shock hoops wouldn't work and keep the stock farm truck look. I was looking for a dinky cantilever kit when a member messaged me and said he made it work with the twin hammers front shocks and cantilevers. Bought that off of eBay for $25 so those should be here next week to mock up.

Think I'm going to keep the stock motor and trams mount in the center of the chassis. I think it will work well and I can keep the battery mounted between the front shocks and still under the hood. Undecided on what I'm going to do with the RX and ESC at this point but once I get everything else in place I can sort that out.

I'll get more pics when I get more done other than just mocking parts up.....

Wes