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Using Tamiya PS-55 flat clear with TS paints

tmk9883

Newbie
Joined
Oct 2, 2019
Messages
23
Location
Saint Charles
Im working on painting up a JConcepts square body to look like a 80's military truck but have run into issues finding flat green and brown paint.

My first plan was to find close enough non flat colors (found a duratrax basic green, but no browns) and then apply the PS-55 to the outside of the body to dull it. I did some research today and read that you can apply TS to lexan as long as you apply PS first to allow the TS to adhere. My new plan is to apply the PS-55 to the inside and than apply the TS colors.

Has anybody tried this? I was able to find the right colors (NATO green and brown) so if that will stick to the PS flat clear I can get the look I want. I imagine I won't get a completely flat look because of the shininess of the lexan so if I need to apply the clear to the outside too that is fine.
 
I've heard the same thing but never tried it, you could test it out on a scrap first.

I think you will need to paint the outside flat clear to hide the shiny lexan look, it acts as a clear coat.

You say you want a military look, have you considered painting the the outside instead? that would give a nice flat look, I've done it a few times recently and Its been surprisingly tough and I really like the look. You can get a closer to gloss and flat depending on how thick the final coats are, light coats give a more flat finish while thick coats are closer to gloss (but not gloss of course).


EDIT: I've seen a few other methods for getting a flat finish as well: scotch brite the exterior of the body. this must be done very consistently for an even look.
Sandblast the exterior (using a gentle blasting media), this is also a tricky one. You need to be consistent here as well and make sure not to blast off the window masking.

I'm honestly not too keen on trying those last two methods because of the potential to screw it up but I though I'd at least share them.
 
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Yes it will work fine. Make sure the PS is totally dry, overnight is best. Then the TS will bond and not crack. You can also use Adherto from HOK .


Hang up and Drive
 
Just paint the outside with PS-55 then your TS colors. You can clear coat it with TS-80 Flat Clear the get the flat military look. You can also shoot the inside with copper and silver. This will give the affect of bare metal or rust when it gets scratched on the outside. "thumbsup"
 
I am surprised to here TS paints dont crack considering the abuse RC bodies often endure. Good to hear it is working for guys here
 
Thanks for responses and alternate ideas. I think Im gonna stick to painting the inside and then clearing the outside if its too shiny. Primary concern is making sure the TS paints adhere and I dont trust my rattle can skills to get a smooth coat.

The body delivered today and I realized one issue Ill have is that the grill on the actual truck are camo but I dont have the skill to recreate that on my own so Ill stick with the stickers. The mold also has a sunroof which I think is goofy, but I dont think it will be noticeable once its painted.

Overall the JConcepts body is pretty nice. It doesnt have the ribbed bed of the Ford bodies but has a lot of sticker options. There is no bumper whatsoever which isnt a problem for me but is different than the one on their site. I guess that was a prototype mold.
 
I've posted many times on this, as long as you use a PS paint against the lexan, and let it dry thoroughly, you can use any enamel or acrylic over the top, and it won't crack, but preparation is key also.

Remove the outer film, but cut around your windows and leave that part of the film intact.

Wash thoroughly with dawn detergent, and dry, let sit for 2-3 hours to insure that the plastic is dry, don't paint when it's humid outside unless you're in a temperature & humidity controlled room.

This next step is up to you, On the 2 trucks I've painted on the outside, I laid down a PS Copper on the inside, backed with a Testor's flat black. On the outside, I laid down a PS Silver, in several thin coats, and let dry 24 hours.

Once cured, I sprayed with Krylon chalkboard green, and a random camo design using Testor's flat black, flat brown, and a flat green.
 

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Had a nice warm weekend and got the body knocked out. Thanks to my wife and her Cricut machine I was able to get some logos and smooth camo spots. Paint adhered well and I backed the TS with duratrax flat black so hopefully it sticks. The flat clear didn’t really show through as I guess but the body I will end up getting dusty and beat up so not sure I’m gonna hit the outside.
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I tried using TS paints on a Lexan body a few years ago. I used adhesion promoter to help the paint stick. I tested it on scraps and it resisted cracking and flaking even when I folded the scraps in half. However, the paint still flaked off the body from sharp impacts (rollovers, bumping against rocks, etc.) that made the Lexan vibrate without actually damaging it.

If you're going to paint Lexan, you really need to use rubberized paint so it can resist vibration as well as remain flexible. Lesson learned the hard way.
 
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