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TRX-4 12.3" body options

Cocamper

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Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
45
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Parker
Yep, another thread!

I've got a chassis kit in the mail because: 1- I wanted to build the kit and 2- I wanted flexibility in the body I put on it.

It's #2 that is the reason for this post.

I'm tired of searching through the many different threads that touch on this. I've lost track of how many I've read and where I read them, then I can't find it again without starting the search all over. I've looked through the picture thread, I've read through every thread I can find on here and elsewhere and I still don't have a definitive list. I'm hopeful this thread will help someone else down the road.

With the rambling done, can we please put together a complete list (at least as of right now) of what bodies fit the 12.3" wheelbase that DON'T require modification, or if they do require modification, please note what needs to be trimmed/replaced. If you know it, list an approx. cost as well.

I'll start based on what I've found in my research:

Traxxas bodies- These should be direct fits- Blazer ($180 painted, $70+ unpainted); Bronco ($140 painted, $60+ unpainted); Sport body ($45 unpainted)

Axial bodies- Jeep Cherokee Body -AXIC1337 ($45 unpainted)- from what I understand, very little if any modification needs to be made, but feel free to correct me. What other Axial bodies fit well?

Proline bodies- All 12.3" bodies approx $50-60
Chevy: C10, K10, Colorado ZR2;
Ford: 66 F100; Raptor; F250
Jeep: Gladiator, Comanche, Wrangler JL Unlimited, Wrangler Unlimited 12.3;
Dodge/Ram: 46 Power Wagon; 77 Ramcharger; 1500
Toyota: 85 HiLux; 91 4Runner

Lots of choices from Proline, but figuring out what actually fits or fits with modifications is not very clear.

Jconcepts bodies- JCI Creep and GMC K10- but I don't know how well these fit.

Those with more knowledge than I, please chime in and help me and hopefully others out!

Thanks!
 
I used the proline 66 ford cab with there back half cage. I like it cause the cab Height. Most of the other body’s have a shorter cab and to me it wouldn’t look right with the tsl sx xl’s I’m running.
 
You can make almost anything fit most of the common chassis options out there. For the trx4, you’ll likely run into needing to trim the inner fenders and potentially the sliders. For some of the shorter bodies like the Jeep JK Rubicon you may need to hack off some of the chassis rail at the back. I’d recommend picking a body you really like, even somewhat regardless of wheelbase, and we’ll help you figure out how to fit it.
 
The Axial 1967 Chevy C10 body fits really well. Just need to swap the rear body mounts for the ones that come with the sport. No trimming required.
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I agree with Topher Builds. You can put any body with suitable wheelbase. Just check the size, maybe you will need to trim inner fenders if that body is too narrow. I don’t see much sense in multiple bodies for one rig. Body fitting is not only about chassis mods. There are bumpers, sliders, wheels, ride height and the most important overall styling. For example if you switch Sport body to Blazer it will fit with no mods but the look would be stupid (for my taste of course).
So choose the body you like the best and make it look awesome on your rig. Personally I prefer Pro-line bodies because of thick lexan and very good details.
 
I think the stock Bronco body is as good as it gets! I just bought a red stripe RTR so I may be biased.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it.

I guess my biggest problem is I'm not sure what body I want, so was trying to put together a decent list of what the options are, what is required to make them fit, and then I could decide. Now I see I need to approach this slightly different and decide on the body I want and then figure out how to make it fit.

I was initially leaning towards the Proline Jeep Wrangler JL Unlimited Rubi (SKU 3546-00) or the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubi (SKU 3336-00). As I looked into these a little closer, they are considerably shorter than the other options, as has been pointed out by others. If these require cutting the chassis to make fit, I think I am going to rule them out- unless someone can point me to a decent thread that shows what is involved.

With all that said, I'm leaning towards the Axial Cherokee Body. So now I'm off to find some threads with that and see what is needed to get it to fit properly.
 
I finished building the chassis kit and went with the Pro-Line 46 Power Wagon body. I found it at my LHS for cheaper than online and pulled the trigger. If I could go back, I would have gone with a wider SUV body first time around. This body requires a lot of trimming of both front and rear fenders, not to mention relocating the ESC and the receiver box. I enjoyed building the kit and wish I ran it as designed, before carving it up. I'm at work now but I can post pictures later as it is still a work in progress. Just my 2 cents.
 
I finished building the chassis kit and went with the Pro-Line 46 Power Wagon body. I found it at my LHS for cheaper than online and pulled the trigger. If I could go back, I would have gone with a wider SUV body first time around. This body requires a lot of trimming of both front and rear fenders, not to mention relocating the ESC and the receiver box. I enjoyed building the kit and wish I ran it as designed, before carving it up. I'm at work now but I can post pictures later as it is still a work in progress. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks, that is exactly the type of feedback I was looking for. I too was looking at the Power Wagon body, as I've always liked those old workhorses. But if it requires that much modification to make it fit, I am going to pass, at least for now...
 
As far as cutting the frame rails for the Jeep bodies, you’d have to chop about an inch or so and then drill new holes for the bumper mount. Since the trx4 also has a 12.8wb rtr option the rails are a bit longer than say the scx10 rails.

The Cherokee body should fit pretty well with only minor trimming of the fenders if any. Some people use another front bumper mount and use that in the rear to raise the bumper up a bit too.
 
As far as cutting the frame rails for the Jeep bodies, you’d have to chop about an inch or so and then drill new holes for the bumper mount. Since the trx4 also has a 12.8wb rtr option the rails are a bit longer than say the scx10 rails.

The Cherokee body should fit pretty well with only minor trimming of the fenders if any. Some people use another front bumper mount and use that in the rear to raise the bumper up a bit too.

Thanks!

I kept going back to the Wrangler, so I just ordered the Wrangler Unlimited Rubi- SKU 333600. I also like the other JL body they just released, but I don't know when that will be available and I'd like to think if I make one fit, the other should fit...

Once I get the kit built and start to look at how the body will fit, I'm sure I'll have more questions.
 
Thanks, that is exactly the type of feedback I was looking for. I too was looking at the Power Wagon body, as I've always liked those old workhorses. But if it requires that much modification to make it fit, I am going to pass, at least for now...

No problem at all. Let me know know if you run into any issues with the build itself. Id by some extra axle grease if you don’t have some laying around. I just stuck with what the kit came with and I was way too conservative with it. Also if you haven’t already purchase some hand tools. The dynamite kit on amazon was worth every penny on this build.
 
Thanks peanut!

Since I’ve got you guys helping out, I also want to get some lights for the jk body I’ve got coming. Headlights, taillights, and a light bar. Can you guys point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
 
I second the XJ axial body. You need to trim about 2mm of the (wide) fenders, and only on corners, but I trimmed them all equally.. Because OCD. Lol. And some bumpers work with original rear mount, some need front mount in the back as well.
 
I also want to get some lights for the jk body I’ve got coming. Headlights, taillights, and a light bar. Can you guys point me in the right direction?
I can only warn you about going crazy with lights. I did that with my first build and I did not like the result. First all those lights made my Silverado look like damn Christmas tree. Second I realized I actually never go out running RC after dark so there was no point to turn my rig into expensive flashlight with light bars. Now I go with few 3mm leds wired serial with resistors to make them dimmed. Looks much better.
Just visit several gtg events in your area to check out others rigs with their light. Then decide amount of lightning you want.
 
Check out powershift rc for lightning kits. They have some simple ones that are just for brake and headlights. There are tons of light bar options out there, from proline, to pitbull, and many no name brands so go for one you like the looks and shape/size of and give it a shot.
 
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