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Truggy? What are the rules?

Fishbone.dk

Newbie
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
44
Location
Denmark
Hi Guys.
I have decided to build me a Truggy.
I have used to much time and effort into my other builds, that I really do not want to drive them cause of the risk of damaging the paint and all my hard work, therefore have I decided to build a truggy that can and will take all the abuse that I can throw at it without being affraid of breaking it.

What are the rules for a Truggy. Should the shocks be longer than a normal chassis (90mm)
The angle of the rear shocks, are the attached to normal shock hoops, or shold they be angled forward?

I have an Idea to build a Tamiya Ford F350 with the bed. My plan is to narrow the end and the tailgate.
The wheelbase on the F350 is 285 (Have I readt somewhere)
Should I bob the bed and make it shortere? Mabey take an 1½ to 2½ cm off?

My plan is to make a cage around some of it, and also front, and rear bumper out of cobber brakelines.
Is that eve possible?

Should I make it a 4 wheel steering truggy, or is that cheating?

My plan is to use 1.9 wheels, and some big tyres around 110mm

Any thoughts guys?

If you have any sugestions around colors on a truck like that, I would apriciate them.
 
Rules????
Unless you build for a specific class(SORCA) what you got ?
Half or full cage with sliders CMS, proper balance and a great power train. Build it to your dream!


Hang up and Drive
 
I have a Gelande and a SCX10 chassis complete. The Gelande is without gearbox and axles. SCX10 axles
Tekin Frx combo 35T motor.
I am thinking half cage.
I am not a big fan of CMS. My experience is that it does not work great and pushes the axle to one side during articulation. But that is just me.
 
I have a Gelande and a SCX10 chassis complete. The Gelande is without gearbox and axles. SCX10 axles
Tekin Frx combo 35T motor.
I am thinking half cage.
I am not a big fan of CMS. My experience is that it does not work great and pushes the axle to one side during articulation. But that is just me.




thats because it wasnt set up properly...i run a few cms rigs with no issues like that...
 
Cms will, if set up properly push to the side. That's why street cars don't have solid axles in the front, it's simple geometry. This is referred to as bump steer in my area, at least in the 4wd community. But it shouldent be that bad. Your 2 sterring rods should be parallel and the same length for best results I think.

I don't actually know any benefit to cms other than scale appearance.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Cms will, if set up properly push to the side. That's why street cars don't have solid axles in the front, it's simple geometry. This is referred to as bump steer in my area, at least in the 4wd community. But it shouldent be that bad. Your 2 sterring rods should be parallel and the same length for best results I think.

I don't actually know any benefit to cms other than scale appearance.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Woodoobrew..
An old thred pretty much summs it up here
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/480839-benefits-cms.html

For once I am not going for the scale look, but performance within a hopefully low budget build.

This guys thred is close to what I imagined.
My thoughts was to.make the body first with a deep narrow bed and then a cage after.

Mostly because i have no problem with the plastic work, but have no Idea how to make the cage.
 
Cms will, if set up properly push to the side. That's why street cars don't have solid axles in the front, it's simple geometry. This is referred to as bump steer in my area, at least in the 4wd community. But it shouldent be that bad. Your 2 sterring rods should be parallel and the same length for best results I think.

I don't actually know any benefit to cms other than scale appearance.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Woodoobrew..
An old thred pretty much summs it up here
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/480839-benefits-cms.html

For once I am not going for the scale look, but performance within a hopefully low budget build.

This guys thred is close to what I imagined.
My thoughts was to.make the body first with a deep narrow bed and then a cage after.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-scale-rigs/317340-da-kine-my-f-350-truggy-build.html

Mostly because i have no problem with the plastic work, but have no Idea how to make the cage.
 
Oh I found a benefit to cms, like on the toyzuki you can put the motor down low where that pesky 4th would have been if you use cms with a panhard, which you should alwayse do. This can lower your CoG.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
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