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Transforming a new Trx4m defender

Jfrisch1

New account (OG Jfrisch01)
Subscribed Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2024
Messages
58
Location
St louis
Had to create a whole new account since the forum doesn’t recognize my email and it’s the only one I have. My other account was Jfrisch01

Anyway,

I picked up a trx4m defender from the LHS. Plan was to replace every stock part I could right off the bat. Went with:

Injora Cherokee body in green
Injora shocks 59mm w/ brass retainers
Injora high clearance brass links
Injora brass steering link
Injora 11kg high torque servo with alum mount
Injora 1.3” deep dish wheels
Injora 1.3” cling on tires
Brass knuckles
Brass c hubs
Brass diff covers
Brass +10mm wheel wideners
Furitek python pro and cedar brushless setup
Injora steel diff and trans gears
Replaced all bushings with sealed bearings

Question, does any else who has a furitek run really hot? On the app to tune it shows 100-103*F. To the touch, it’s hot, too hot to keep your finger on it for more than a second. Just wondering if that’s normal or not.
 
Last edited:
Had to create a whole new account since the forum doesn’t recognize my email and it’s the only one I have. My other account was Jfrisch01

Anyway,

I picked up a trx4m defender from the LHS. Plan was to replace every stock part I could right off the bat. Went with:

Injora Cherokee body in green
Injora shocks 59mm w/ brass retainers
Injora high clearance brass links
Injora brass steering link
Injora 11kg high torque servo with alum mount
Injora 1.3” deep dish wheels
Injora 1.3” cling on tires
Brass knuckles
Brass c hubs
Brass diff covers
Brass +10mm wheel wideners
Furitek python pro and cedar brushless setup
Injora steel diff and trans gears
Replaced all bushings with sealed bearings

Question, does any else who has a furitek run really hot? On the app to tune it shows 100-103*F. To the touch, it’s hot, too hot to keep your finger on it for more than a second. Just wondering if that’s normal or not.
I tried to improve my defender, but for now I don't have enough time to complete the process! I stopped halfway)
 
I just took my brass high link brass off, cause o-ring based flex on the ball ends just wasn’t working for me. I think I got the ones I saw in B-Mow’s thread. Stainless, not brass ball but work.
 
Those hacked "Yota" bodies from, I believe, Injora look great! Nice build.

Injora does a great job with the 1/18 stuff. It’s pretty nice stuff. I don’t like the 1/10 things just because there are better options. This thing is almost completely Injora.
 
Truck crawls 90% better with this body compared to the heavy Cherokee body. Way more side angle stability and the approach and departure angles are obviously better too.

Might slap some diamond axles on it and call it done. Only other thing like like to do is swap the chassis rails but that’s not a necessity for me.
 
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