The Plan to fit a Gmade Sawback body to a TRX4 sport

[The Paddy Channel]

The Plan to fit a Gmade Sawback body to a TRX4 sport

I started with a standard TRX4 RTR and shortened it into a 300mm wheelbase; this was done by swapping out the rear links with 4 front links and re-using the ball ends. The shock towers are swapped around [left moves to the right side etc] there is also a brace that needs to be moved.
I opted to install some longer shocks, 85 – 120mm over the standard ones and removed the springs, this will give me the extra height over the standard shock, plus I get the longer travel with the articulation. I also added some small springs to the inside of the shock where the oil goes doing this helps with not having such a thud. I have needed to install the servo mount used in the lift kit as these shocks are similar length to the “lift kit” ones and lengthened the front upper suspension link to reach the axel.
I have added the narrow fenders to the chassis as well
You will need to shorten the rear drive shaft to match the front.
Parts used
TRA 8243 [2 sets] - Traxxas TRX-4 Steel 5x100 Front Upper/Lower Suspension Link 2Pcs
TRA 8250 - Traxxas TRX-4 Front & Rear Center Drive Shaft - for the shorter shaft
TRA 8080 - Traxxas TRX-4 Narrow Front & Rear Fender Inner Set 4Pcs
TRA 8141 - Traxxas TRX-4 Long Arm Lift Kit Steering Servo Mount –
TRA 8247x - Traxxas TRX-4 Metal Steering Servo Horn




Body

The Gmade Sawback, Jeep Willy style body in an army green and decal layout to compliment. I might go back to the standard shocks with the Sawback body

Electronics
I have stripped out the esc and steering servo and replacing them with the hobbywing 1080 esc and using a 35kg servo from EBay. The receiver box has been moved to the front where you can put the battery between the wheel wells
The battery tray will be swapped out for the bow house low profile one to fit better under the body and will also have the ESC located in the front part with a smaller battery to fit behind it.
The motor will be swapped to a 45t 550 size Holmes Hobby motor with a 15 tooth pinion and changing to the 45 tooth spur.
Parts
Hobbywing QuicRun Waterproof 1080 Brushed Crawling ESC

35KG Large Torque Waterproof Digital Steering Servo
BWH-BTX-0060J - BowHouse RC TRX-4 Molded Low CG Battery Tray ]
VNR 1577 - Venom Power 3S Soft Pack 20C LiPo Battery w/UNI 2.0 Connector (11.1V/2100mAh)


Wheels
I will either stay with the standard TRX4 set or look for a smaller class 1 tyer - hyrax



Trx4 Sawback update,

I have placed the body on and worked through the rear shock issue by changing the rear shocks to a cantilever system and this has worked out well. I also received my class 1 wheels – 100mm high creating a new problem, with the shorter wheels the body looks to high from the top of the wheel to the wheel arch of the body. Hopefully swapping these out the longer shocks for shorter shocks [70-98 from 85-120] will fix this. The battery tray had to be trimmed and lowered for the body to sit better.
The fenders and the side skid plates will all be getting a chop to fit. Then I can start working out the placement of the esc and the wiring path. In the next stage I’m hoping to install the motor [Holmes Hobby 550 45t] with a 15t pinion and change the spur to the 45 tooth

 

[ferp420]

dident happen with out pics
i mean come on yo

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Welcome to the site! Post photos. I want to see this project.

 

[The Paddy Channel]

Just added a few photos - the receiver box will have a Warn cover to look like a winch. i'm just not sure which wheels the stock TRX4 or the class 1 size hyrax.

 

[The Paddy Channel]

forgot to mention the block of wood is 100mm [4 inch] high

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Very cool! Those little Hyrax look perfect on that body.

Also, the receiver box up front as a faux winch is awesome! Very cool idea!

Please post some photos without the body. I want to see all of that cantilever setup. Did you custom make that or did you buy it?

 

[The Paddy Channel]

some better pics of the cantilever system is made by Xtra Speed from rcmart.com . i have taken out the springs that come on the shock. also the cover for the "winch"

 

[The Paddy Channel]

extra pic's

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Very cool! Thank you for sharing.

 

[Ross413]

What's the roll cage plans for that body? Looks amazing! Great job on the wheelbase.

 

[OSRC]

Looks great! Never would have thought of putting that body on the chassis.

 

[Redeemed]

I’ve been thinking about doing this also can you get some pictures from the top with the body off?

 

[The Paddy Channel]

22nd April 2020 [lockdown date 27, builders log]
Well since we are in a lockdown here in Australia [Melbourne since 25th March], I have pushed on with some other upgrades that I was going to do on my TRX4 Sport a lot later, after seeing how it runs on the rocks and trails. The upgrades added are: the TRX4 over and under drive gears. SSD TRX4 portal brass weights adding 75g each side [150g/ 5.2oz total] from https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-trx4-portal-brass-weights-ssd00198/p695931and some stainless steal skid plates [rock sliders] to cover the diff and belly of the truck from EBay and painted them green .
Also added an integrated self recovery system from https://dsmoffroad.com [the fluro yellow down the side] and started to think through, how I will mount the body with magnets at the front and a hinge at the rear, all this between covering the wires with a braided outer to look nice and neat.
started to work on the paint with a rust effect inside is painted with tamiya PS 14 Copper backed with black PS-5, on the outer side is AS-9 RAF Dark Green to get scratched to look like rust on the sample i tried the salt trick.

Thanks for the feedback, regarding the roll cage no plans as yet to use one as I am hoping to get more of the Army look but I have purchased the roll cage sold by Gmade for this body which comprises of a hoop bar over the back seat and the windscreen with some cross members for support.

Problems I have come across with this Gmade body is that it is low and not leaving much room above the frame rails of the sport, I have had to really cut up the inner fenders to fit around the body and as earlier mentioned had to go for the cantilever system. The other was the battery tray that was swapped for the bow house LCG battery tray which when mounted has the battery on a slight upward angle off went the lugs that mount it at the rear and now houses the hobby wing 1080 esc. The battery is located above the motor on a bracket I made and the wires come up through the transmission area on the body mould.

 

[slothRC]

22nd April 2020 [lockdown date 27, builders log]
Well since we are in a lockdown here in Australia [Melbourne since 25th March], I have pushed on with some other upgrades that I was going to do on my TRX4 Sport a lot later, after seeing how it runs on the rocks and trails. The upgrades added are: the TRX4 over and under drive gears. SSD TRX4 portal brass weights adding 75g each side [150g/ 5.2oz total] from https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-trx4-portal-brass-weights-ssd00198/p695931and some stainless steal skid plates [rock sliders] to cover the diff and belly of the truck from EBay and painted them green .
Also added an integrated self recovery system from https://dsmoffroad.com [the fluro yellow down the side] and started to think through, how I will mount the body with magnets at the front and a hinge at the rear, all this between covering the wires with a braided outer to look nice and neat.
started to work on the paint with a rust effect inside is painted with tamiya PS 14 Copper backed with black PS-5, on the outer side is AS-9 RAF Dark Green to get scratched to look like rust on the sample i tried the salt trick.

Thanks for the feedback, regarding the roll cage no plans as yet to use one as I am hoping to get more of the Army look but I have purchased the roll cage sold by Gmade for this body which comprises of a hoop bar over the back seat and the windscreen with some cross members for support.

Problems I have come across with this Gmade body is that it is low and not leaving much room above the frame rails of the sport, I have had to really cut up the inner fenders to fit around the body and as earlier mentioned had to go for the cantilever system. The other was the battery tray that was swapped for the bow house LCG battery tray which when mounted has the battery on a slight upward angle off went the lugs that mount it at the rear and now houses the hobby wing 1080 esc. The battery is located above the motor on a bracket I made and the wires come up through the transmission area on the body mould.

Sorry for to jump in late, but how is this build coming? I'd love to see some pics of it painted up!

I really like this body and have been thinking about it. I'm hesitant because I really like the stock wheelbase of my TRX-4 Sport, so I'm not sure I'd be able to make this body a good aesthetic match if I want to keep the stock wheelbase.

 

[The Paddy Channel]

I have managed to get the painting done, I’ve had some nice sunny winter days, I started with a gray on the inside and backed with black. Then on the outer side a coat of PS 14 Copper, then TS 28 Drab Green. I am planning to add all the decals then a coat of flat clear.

 

[smog]

Digging it, yo. Lately been thinking I need a rig with an open top.

Where is Klinger and Hulahan?

 

[The Paddy Channel]

Well, we in Melbourne Australia are back in lockdown. I have managed to get things finished off a bit more and the hinge set up done.

Just needing help with the wheels and tyres and I would be grateful for opinions , the options are the green or the black 1.9 wheels/rims with class 1 tyres or the black 2.2 wheel/rim with the holes with 1.9x4.75 stretched on to the 2.2’s or the original Traxxas set - Canyon trails

 

[soze]

Either of the first 2 wheel/tire combos look more appropriate.

I'm interested in your thoughts on the XtraSpeed cantilevers. I've been looking at them for a project, but not sure how well they work.

 

[The Paddy Channel]

It's all done….. the brave soldier took one for the team and lost part of his leg to fit and the centre of gravity has changed a bit with the action man, total weight is 4Kg [approx 8.5/9lb]
The cantilever system seems to work well, just had a small run around the backyard and it worked well. I need to go out on trail to really test it but i am happy so far.

a very short video
https://youtu.be/Q2UlgDIpaKo

 

[ferp420]

pretty cool yo

the driver looks like hes driving a power wheels jeep
theres a video on lou tube of a bunch of collage students driving those around campas with there legs hanging out like that and that video instantly came to mind when i saw that last picture

link to videi if anyone is interested https://youtu.be/uk2bHWZzYWE