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tension ?

A small dab of e6000 or shoe goo type stuff just around the hole
It holds strong but still easy to remove
If It's not something you would want to be removing and reinstalling all the time it would work just fine
 
I like that idea. But yeah I'll likely remove it when wheeling it.
Well at least I'd like to have that option without a major clean up when removed. I'm leaning towards using micro bungees to garner some tension.
 
I've used copper wire for similar projects to bend and make hooks. Like insulated scrap wire if you've got some in a bin of old electrical stuff. Even diameter as thin as 1.50/ 1.60/ 1.70 mm have a good deal of strength and can be bent to whatever length or shape you need. Just a thought/ Good luck.
 
are you talking about making your own bungee (tension) straps ?
Kind of lost me on the copper wire thing ?
Isn't copper generally soft and malleable ? Unless it's mixed with other metals ?
 
The copper hook idea would work if you have enough flex in the canvas to press down lightly, hook in place, then release so that it's taut... If that makes sense. Like you would do with a bungee strap but without the actual elastic cord. As long as you have just enough slack in the canvas top while gently pressing down with your thumb, you could simply hook it in place.

Copper generally is pretty soft but solid copper wire at 1.50+ mm diameter is surprisingly strong and rigid in shorter lengths... plenty strong enough for your application here. And again.. you can make the shape, angle, size of the hook however you'd need it to be. To clarify it would be like an "S" hook shape but modified to exactly as you'd need... Just bend with needle-nose pliers.

Another plus is it would patina over time and look pretty legit in that regard.
 
patina ? you mean green corrosion ? Lol
Not laughing at your idea. Just the patina thing ! Lol

So basically i'd just be using the copper wire to create the tension ?
Wont it stretch over time ?
I was eyeballing this thing https://www.ebay.com/itm/275619849308
2 actually. Was thinking I could make them work ? (but a heck of a lot more costly then your idea)
They are used for 1/6 scale GI Joes as a gun strap or some chit.

Maybe even these https://www.ebay.com/itm/144965077981
^ I've made these before. But now I'd rather pay somebody else to do that ;-)
 
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So yeah.. copper will not necessarily turn green but it would become dull and look somewhat legitimate in that regard. Some copper is more prone to turning green than another. Whether or not it would get a slightly green hue over time I think isn't of concern either way. No it would not stretch out of shape. It would take a great deal of tension for that to happen. I've used copper hooks that I've made myself from 1.50 - 1.70 mm wire for many years in all sorts of projects. It would be absolutely strong enough for your particular application. Like I said... you would just use a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend and shape it to exactly as you'd need.

IMO the two links that you provided are not what I would use. Those bungees are not only [likely] too long but expensive as well. The other one on ebay has too many potential failure points as well as likely being too long and with no ability to really alter or tailor it to your specific needs.

Another advantage to doing it like I'm suggesting is that the end of the copper wire that would attach to the rail ( on the body) you could shape so that it would be closed enough ( almost like an eye-bolt) to be able to simply hang free if/ when you wanted to remove the canvas top. So it wouldn't have to be taken completely off.. subsequently wouldn't get lost.

Simplify. Copper hooks would get this job done very cheaply if not for free... depending on where you might find a short scrap piece of copper wire. Wire cutters, needle-nose pliers, copper wire.. That's all that you'd need to make this work.
 
Copper tends to turn green or corrode more quickly if moisture is involved.
And in Alaska that's likely a probability.
But it's still cheaper to replace generally.
 
TacoCrawler said:
Copper tends to turn green or corrode more quickly if moisture is involved.
And in Alaska that's likely a probability.
But it's still cheaper to replace generally.
Click to expand...
Copper usually only turns green when exposed to acids normally it just turns red


Here's a example this piece of copper spent 20 years 100 ft from the ocean before being taken down and recycled in to a art piece



 
besides all that... where can I source parts for this '41 Willy's MB besides China or AliExpress ?
I broke a servo horn trying to run this RTR pos :x
It needs a metal servo horn and I don't know the tooth count ? Might you ?
Guess I'll need buy the C hubs & S Knuckles too as they will likely break as soon as I can fix this :cry:
 
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TacoCrawler said:
I see corrosion and rust (green and red) ?
Click to expand...
the green is from the acid from the soldering and finger prints but my point was thats 20 years on a roof facing the ocean in salt water Spray day in day out



That was a awesome piece of metal lol

I at one point in life made copper sculptures and sold them but at some point the cost to make them and what I could sell them for kinda blended together and I lost interest
 
high plains drifter said:
I thought that you purchased the DS 51150 servo. Supposed to come with an aluminum horn? Anyway... 18t/ spline count.
Click to expand...
I purchased that particular servo for my SCX6 and is not of issue.
This is for my ROCHOBBIES 1/6 '41 Willy's MB Jeep scaler.
I broke the stock plastic servo horn and I'm trying to determine what tooth
count the original servo has in order to upgrade the servo horn to something stronger.
I'm guessing it's a 25T but I'm not sure yet. And counting that spline is nearly impossible.
Granted the original servo might fail next. Who knows !?
But the stock (Part #) plastic servo horn on AliExpress for this RC vehicle looks nothing like the install / horn that I have.
And the Chinese employees just say the pictures are up to date and are rather unknowing in this hobby.
Or it's a translation problem or their just not too smart !? I don't know or care.
Purchasing from China is nearly impossible if one hopes to get what they've paid for.
Their deceptive practices and outdated pictures/description are nearly impossible to navigate.
And the communication with Chinese workers is messed up from the get go. And so there is little useful / trustworthy help.
 
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So then, yeah.. 25 or 24 spline. But without some pics of the servo or at least the name and specs on the side or top of the servo, gonna be hard to know what to suggest to ya.
 
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