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tdlosinc's hilux

tdlosinc

Rock Stacker
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
65
Location
ny
I have been on the forums for a couple years now. I have never done anything more than start a couple threads about problems with my LNC. I figure it is time that I start a build thread."thumbsup"

I bought a RTR LNC back in late 2010. First mod was a hobbico 170 oz servo and proline chisels with lead weights stuck to the inside of the wheels. I broke a wheel putting things back together and picked up a set of proline titus bead locks with the internal weight rings. At the same time I picked up aluminum hexes, aluminum steering linkage and a proline crowd pleazer body. I ran this set up for quite a while until the stock motor burned out. At that point I bought a Holmes Torquemaster Pro handwound 35t motor. I pulled the axles apart, cleaned, and re-greased them with high temp red tacky grease. I also made myself a set of bent aluminum lower links. The first time back on the rocks, the servo stripped itself. I ordered a hitec 7955 tg to put in its place with a CC BEC. I decided to go body-less shortly after that. I hacked the unnecessary bits off the stock chassis and made myself two 1/8" aluminum fast back sides with 1/4" aluminum rod cross members. I thought it looked really cool, but I didn't run it much. You know the typical excuse of life gets in the way, blah, blah, blah. ;-)

I will try to dig up some pictures of how it used to look.

Then one day I stumbled upon TURTLE's thread titled "A little Toyota named Scuba Tank" and things changed forever. I had to have a hilux with a similar paint scheme. So I decided to get the LNC off the shelf and convert it to a scaler. I knew I wasn't up to the task of a full drop bed like TURTLE's, so I went with just a cab and decided to go the truggy route. I went with 2.2 TTC Baja Claws instead since I already had the 2.2 wheels. I ordered a SCX10 chassis and got to work. I tore the stock LNC shocks apart and put some internal springs and new 90wt oil inside. I am running a full droop setup. After a few hours at the work bench I arrived at a roller.



I wanted a chassis mounted servo so I attached the servo to one of the cross members of the frame and made a drag link out of all-thread. That is when I discovered that 4 links and CMS kits don't work together. I then made a panhard bracket for the front axle out of .063 aluminum and a panhard mount on the frame out of 24ga matte black kynar coated galvalume. (I work at a standing seam metal roofing manufacturing company with lots of scraps.)



I got it to cycle pretty well and was happy with it. I then moved on to getting the body mocked up. I knew I would have to pinch the nose to get the tires to not rub as much. Here are a couple pics with the pinched body just sitting in place. I wanted to keep the body (and whole truck for that matter) as low as possible while still fitting a large lipo under the hood for maximum runtime.





more to come in the next post.
 
I started to paint the body after I got the mounting position squared away. I filled several of the gaps and primed the whole body. I then added a couple coats of flat gray on top of the primer. I sprayed yellow on the passenger door and front quarter. Black on the hood and a slightly off white on everything else. I then sanded through some areas of the top coats to get down to the primer for that worn out look. I left out the red driver door that TURTLE did. I didn't want an exact copy. I went over everything with dullcoat after that.



I then went to visit my room mate from college who is a very skilled welder. He helped me make a truggy rear out of 1/8" solid steel rod, 1/2" square tube for the bumpers and 3/16" rod for the sliders. All TIG welded together. I don't have any pics of this process. It was cold in the garage and we were trying to move fast. I do have a couple pics from a few days later when it was up and running on the course in my old yard.







I didn't realize until recently that this truggy rear was not legal. I didn't know you have to cut the frame at the end of the cab and make everything in the rear out of tubing or solid rod.
 
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This brings me to how it currently sits. I tinkered with a couple different things. I mounted the steering servo in a better position. It worked well before on flat surfaces, but once I got on the rocks steering ability really suffered.





This geometry seemed to perform much better. Here are a few more pics of the whole linkage.







When the axle is at full droop, the driver side hangs lower than the passenger side. Still trying to figure out why that might be if anyone has any ideas. :ror:
 
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Here are some more pics with all the electronics in their final homes and all the wiring cleaned up for the most part.





Here are some pics of the rear cage with the body off.



 
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Now on to the pics with the body on and ready to drive. I forgot to mention I switched to the RC4WD stamped steel beadlocks because I got a tire hung up in the rocks and the holmes motor twisted the inside of the proline titus wheel apart. :shock: I love torque.











I am pretty happy with it but I have a strong urge to tinker with it again. I want it to fit within the rules of class 3 and possibly switch to class 2 with a tire change. Not sure if that is even possible. I am thinking to go either full truggy, or make a cool flat bed on top of the existing frame. I think I am leaning towards flatbed with a roll bar. I think it would be a little more utilitarian looking, especially when I finish the trailer i haven't even started yet ;-) . I am also thinking of a color change to a flat dark green with a flat black hood and frame/bumpers/sliders too. Thanks for looking everyone and let me know what you think about making the changes. :ror:
 
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