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Some "play" in my Front Axle (SCX10 Jeep CR Edition)?

Ghost Koi

Ghost Koi

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Messages
116
Location
NoVa
Hey guys, I just noticed after a short run today that my Jeep Frame (specifically the cross member) was getting "stuck" on my Servo Arm (technical term:lmao:?). It appears the there is some movement or "play" in the servo and when I (or anything) pushes it forward, the frame gets caught on the Servo Arm. It is easier to view in the linked video and pictures. Is this normal? When I removed the cross bar (pictured) I obviously had no problems but now that I am relocating my battery to the front, this piece is required.

Here is the axle and servo in a normal position (unobstructed)

aNzAMEq.jpg


Now here the Frame is "stuck" Servo....

tMmVmC3.jpg


Here is a video demonstrating what I am referring to.
Is there a way to fix this and is this normal on a stock model... I have had my SCX10 for a while and can't determine if this is normal.

https://youtu.be/yV9bpqcF1rU
 
It's normal and will not effect anything under normal driving conditions unless you are jumping your truck for some reason. I did however Dremel mine out because it annoyed me.
 
several options...

1. notch the cross member with a dremel (already said)

2. reposition the servo farther rearward (shaved mounts - re-drill)

3. Remove the cross member altogether and replace with a single post.


I did both 2 & 3... but either one could net the clearance, stand alone.
 
Ghost Koi said:
Hey guys, I just noticed after a short run today that my Jeep Frame (specifically the cross member) was getting "stuck" on my Servo Arm (technical term:lmao:?). It appears the there is some movement or "play" in the servo and when I (or anything) pushes it forward, the frame gets caught on the Servo Arm. It is easier to view in the linked video and pictures. Is this normal? When I removed the cross bar (pictured) I obviously had no problems but now that I am relocating my battery to the front, this piece is required.

Here is a video demonstrating what I am referring to.
Is there a way to fix this and is this normal on a stock model... I have had my SCX10 for a while and can't determine if this is normal.

https://youtu.be/yV9bpqcF1rU
Click to expand...

Servo arm or servo horn is fine, both terms are used universally.

Take a look at your upper and lower links to if something is loose, worn or broken. The axle looks like it's moving a little too much. If that's not the problem, you can trim the top of the servo horn to clear the front brace, notch the front brace to clear the servo horn or a combination of both. I believe some have also removed that cross brace altogether.
 
o0wiz0o said:
I just took the cross member out. It's fine without it. :)
Click to expand...
Maybe... for your circumstance or intended use.

But take a rung out of a ladder and see what happens ?

Ok, maybe not a single rung... but 5 or 6

The cross member(s) are what support the chassis's structural integrity.
and even with the originals in place...
the chassis deflects/twists easily.

But the primary purpose of the cross members
is to give parallel support and strength to the frame rails.
The boxing stiffens that and helps with keeping the frame square.

The forward section of the frame has no cross member,
forward of the shock towers/radio box ('cept that forward CM)
as the servo needs that space to deflect upwards into the frame.

So if that forward cross member is removed...
the only other cross member would be at the horns end cap(s).

What remains is a large void with the boxing spaced
too far apart to offer any real strength/integrity.

It may be fine with that cross member removed...
But if the chassis endos down a hill or off a rock...
one risks bending the forward section of the frame rails.

In other words...
that cross member serves more purpose...
then solely supporting the battery tray.

To each their own of course...
but I would not advise the unknowing/inexperienced
to remove their forward cross member without adding additional support.

I personally would advise replacing the plastic cross member
with an alloy post or tube spanning the frame's ID at the forward hole.
And in addition to that...
I would recommend a cross member/boxing at the frame horns
^ (bumper/end cap/etc.)

Even with two cross members in place...
the area the servo compresses up into the frame
is still a weak point.
 
Last edited:
Not to mention it's needed to mount the battery unless he wants to modify the battery mounts. In which case why not just modify the cross member.



I still wouldn't feel at a disadvantage in a real world situation leaving the cross member untouched.
 
I removed that cross member on three scx10's with zero ill affects.Remove it & drive it!
 
Looks like your running mostly stock. Your links (if stock) can wear out quickly. Look at the rod ends of your links when you move the axle. I found using metal links and new rod ends with metal eyelets takes out that play.

Scaling & Crawlin
 
my solution, get an alumunium servo arm.. its a bit thinner by a few mililiter.. then it clears the cross member
 
From the look of the pictures, your front axle housing is rotating. You'll want to look at the upper links (I assume you have the Y link).
If it's the Y, not only do the arms tend to bend, but the ball joint connecting it to the axle tends to pop out.
Any play or flex in the upper links will allow your axle housings to rotate. When it rotates forward, it pushes the servo horn into the brace.

The easiest solution is to replace it with straight links. The RTRs generally come with the parts you'll need the "spare parts" bag. While they are still plastic, they won't allow the axle to rotate forwards, and should keep the servo away from the brace.
 
Thanks for the help everyone! I noticed that the joints were bending- especially when playing on and around my Bean Bag.... will check out the straight links when I got the chance
 
looks to me like your 3 link is worn out you may want to replace that with a 4 link so if the balls do wear out they'll still stay there and your axle won't flop around
 
Just located this >> Tower - RC4WD 6 x 70mm Threaded Titanium Link << if you want to replace the stock brace with something a little smaller that doesn't drop down like the factory brace. Should provide plenty of clearance, I'll find out soon enough as I just ordered one from Tower along with some other miscellaneous items.
 
Last edited:
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