So has anyone perfected the steering geometry of the Gen8?

[Maxx_Action]

So we have a gen8 v2 that has been sitting in pieces for months...

because I could never get the steering to work right. I could trim it to center, do a hard turn, and it wouldn't center. Trim it the other way, hard turn, same thing. So I got tired of messing with it until someone comes up with something that works.

I recently traded for an Axe edition. I put the Bowhouse panhard mount, and added the hot racing link/panhard mounts to the axles as well.

Now the bump steer is better, but the front axle sets about a quarter inch further to the passenger side than it should. If I move the panhard to the second (outer most) screw hole on the axle panhard mount to try to pull it back in line, it wants to bind up, and I don't get free movement on the passenger side of the truck.

I am just wondering if anyone has actually fabricated something to make the front suspension work like it should?? Such a cool truck, but with poorly engineered steering, it kinda takes away from the fun of it.

 

[HumboldtEF]

It sounds like you have 2 issues, your servo sounds like its FUBAR if it wont center and the geometry is a separate issue.

there are a bunch of different approaches for fixing the bump steer and nobody really agrees which is best.

I came up with this a few years ago http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redc...cat-followed-me-home-gen-8-a.html#post5911103

If all you need is to adjust the length of the panhard try a longer/shorter rod end or just unscrew the existing rod ends till it works for you.

also make sure you dont have the drag link on the wrong side of the knuckle (on top of the steering link which mounts on top of the knuckle not below). EDIT nevermind that specific order I forgot I had changed my steering links from stock.

 

[ferp420]

It's not something that's gonna be perfect there is just to much suspention travel but you can minimize it but it's always a trade off
Its always been a issue with Chassis mounted servos
Although redcat really could have done better that stock linkage just sucks

 

[Timmahh]

I was able to pretty much eliminate the bump steer on mine, but the shift of the front axle due to the pan hard design can only be minimally limited.

For the axle shift, SSD Lower F link mounts. the pan hard mount is a bit taller than stock.
Then the Bowhouse RC Panhard Relocation mount for the chassis. These 2 parts will remove just a little bit of the shift, but its the best it will be.

For the bump steer, that took a bit more.
Offset servo horn. I used the Treal LMT Servo Saver but have it locked down so there is no servo saver action to it. but any 10-12mm offset horn would work.
SSD Trailking/SCX10.2 Titanium Steering links. The bent drag bar link mounted to the top of the steering knuckle along with the offset horn puts the drag link in almost perfect angle match to the pan hard bar. Think I have a long rod on on the crossbar also.
Now I have almost no bump steer at all except at the very end of full compression of the drivers/left side of the front shock.
I do have 112mm shocks on, so a bit longer than stock. Probably would not have any on stock 100mm shocks.

The SSD Steering crossbar is also a better clearance around the pumpkin area so it no longer bumps into the diff cover.




Here is a vid I did last year on the panhard/axle shift and the bump steer and these changes I noted above, shown in working action so you can see how it is now compared to stock.

Pt1<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7KJw7AfBSPs" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Pt2<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OXoZ-hMvceE" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Maxx_Action]

Thanks for all the replies guys...

some very good information here. I think I will order the titanium links and see if I can get some more improvement out of that.

I appreciate the help.

 

[ferp420]

Thanks for all the replies guys...

some very good information here. I think I will order the titanium links and see if I can get some more improvement out of that.

I appreciate the help.

dont spend the money on titanium get stainless links much better value

you should also order yourself a set of long rod ends they can be cut down to the perfict langth cause no premade set.of.links is perfict everyones set up is different so the langth of the steering and panhard bars will vary slightly depending on your ride hight and setup

 

[Timmahh]

dont spend the money on titanium get stainless links much better value

you should also order yourself a set of long rod ends they can be cut down to the perfict langth cause no premade set.of.links is perfict everyones set up is different so the langth of the steering and panhard bars will vary slightly depending on your ride hight and setup

The TI links are fine. And are needed due to the design to fix the bump steer. Unless someone makes a similar piece, which Ive not seen, even from club 5 that work and work great for 15.00....These Ti SSD links are the Cats Ass.

15.00 is not that pricey for Ti Steering links that will help correct the bump steer once setup as shown.

 

[ferp420]

The TI links are fine. And are needed due to the design to fix the bump steer. Unless someone makes a similar piece, which Ive not seen, even from club 5 that work and work great for 15.00....These Ti SSD links are the Cats Ass.

15.00 is not that pricey for Ti Steering linkfs that will help correct the bump steer once setup as shown.

i understand some people dont like to make there own stuff i get it

personaly i like stainless links better

besides those bent steering links would realy look funny on my rig