Simple Light Setup ~ For my Scaler

[Stomper Fan 777]

I just wanted a Simple Light Setup, For my Clod Bodied Scaler.
And ordered the most basic light setup I could find.
Almost like the old 9v battery light setups back in the day.
I think the setup I ordered should work out good.

* Racers Edge Universal LED Head/Tail Light Set, 4 pc, Plug-N-Play
Features four different lighting/strobe/blink modes.

* Gear Head RC 4 AAA Battery Holder with Switch.

 

[hillbillyrc]

Without the four different light modes that's what the barrage comes with for lighting.

 

[spoo76]

I personally feel hooking up to the main battery is better in the long run with less space and weight. I don't know why some people are so dead set on running a second battery pack when you can easily adjust the voltage of your lipo to your needs in a few ways.

Sent from my LG-M322 using Tapatalk

 

[Shinchu]

i like the idea of keeping the smaller dedicated pack on the body. i plan on hiding an 18650 dual pack inside the seat, easy to swap batteries and i have tons of 18650's around from my days of vape and custom lightsabers.

even a single 18650 would be plenty for just 4 little LED's. a dual pack at 7.4v could probably run a lightbar.

simple lighting is awesome. i understand tapping into a larger 3s battery for lightbars and stuff that pull more wattage, but for some simple "OEM lighting", stuff like this is great.

 

[spoo76]

It's all personal preference really. I feel a few resistors or even a BEC is a cheaper, smaller, lighter way

Sent from my LG-M322 using Tapatalk

 

[Browneye]

Yeah, I just plug into the receiver. Voile - instant lighting!

Those pump spray-bottle protective caps work great for light-buckets too.

 

[Jim85IROC]

Agreed with the last two. The last thing I want to deal with is charging MORE batteries. I also have no interest in the additional weight. Plug into a receiver port, or plug a switch into the receiver port for some sweet on/off action. For higher power stuff, I plug a switch into a receiver port and source my power directly from the battery.

Every time I solder on a new connector for the ESC, I also solder a pigtail to a jst plug specifically for the accessories that I'll end up powering. Then it's just a simple matter of plugging in a boost or buck converter to ensure that I provide the proper voltage to my load.

 

[Stomper Fan 777]

The Fun will start soon installing all my new lights on my Clod bodied scaler
I am thinking of mounting the police light bar in the cab behind the windshield.
Turning it in to an Un-Marked Police Trail Truck.

 

[Shinchu]

Agreed with the last two. The last thing I want to deal with is charging MORE batteries. I also have no interest in the additional weight. Plug into a receiver port, or plug a switch into the receiver port for some sweet on/off action. For higher power stuff, I plug a switch into a receiver port and source my power directly from the battery.

Every time I solder on a new connector for the ESC, I also solder a pigtail to a jst plug specifically for the accessories that I'll end up powering. Then it's just a simple matter of plugging in a boost or buck converter to ensure that I provide the proper voltage to my load.

this is all great info, as simple as it may seem to some. i'm still learning "what goes where" electronics wise. I'm not even running a BEC yet and i have a servo winch (its inop for this very reason, needs a controller most likely going with HEYOK).
good to know, just running a switch between the rx and battery power. (although its crazy convenient that i have a ton of 18650's and a charger already)
i just need simple OEM style lights on my ford. no need for crazy light bar power.
seems i really need to get a BEC, like... NOW.

 

[heyok]

Lots of great ideas here. Mind if I post a couple that I make?

If you don't want to solder up your own solution, I offer this
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vend...3-receiver-power-distributor.html#post5163084

With a switch like in this picture, and without a switch (click the above link to see it).