This may end up being more of a tuning/repairing thread instead of a build thread since it's been built for about 10 days now.:mrgreen:
I had a BJv3 chassis with Losi MOA under it for about 6 months, recycled that into this build as well as most of the links.
I bought the axles used from the classifieds here, and stripped the chassis down while they were being shipped. I had the rig running the day after the axles showed up. I took my time testing shock placement, clearancing any binds, etc, basically bench tuned it as I went. I have been super pleased with how well it works, from day one. Miles above the Losi setup.
That being said, there is room for improvement, and I suppose that's what this thread will be about.
The axles had Super 300's, 86 Jeep steering, VP Hi Steer knucks up front. Will be installing the Dlux Knuckle Weight system in the next couple days, really looking forward to ditching the wheel weights.
Rear has been clocked, Fubar lockouts with RC Axlemaster shafts.
I'm running a pair of Mamba Micro Pros on 40C 3s to a pair of Team Brood 2011 LE 35T motors. I'm using the brand new wantAsummit DX3E Dual ESC Adapter to control them. The motors are pretty amazing, great stuff unless you are a 3rd gear. More on that later. The Dual ESC adapter is an awesome product as well, works perfectly for mixing, saves the expense of swapping out all your Spektrum stuff to Futaba.
Here's a few pics of it as it first came together.
This is my estimated sprung weight, rtr is 5.7 pounds for now.
I was a bit sketched by 3 ears holding a 7950, so i did what I could to make it as strong as possible. This is a RCBros servo clamp I used to help spread the load on the unsupported hole.
This is the cube I managed to squeeze all of the electronics into. I may go back and remove all of the unecessary wiring in the near future. I removed the switch and white motor wire before installation.
Here's a shot from the front, showing the steering and another view of the electronics bundle. I have a Robitronic horn for it, just need to pick it up from a buddy. You can also see the lipo tray attached to the lower links just behind the motor, I plan to make a BTM tray for lipos but I need to order something smaller first. These are 1050's, I get 20-25 minutes out of them.
A couple of side shots, belly is 3" at the front, 3.5 at the back of the skid. My links are set up roughly 60/40 front/rear length, and my weight bias is skewed a little bit further forward than that. The lower links will be Ti soon, with the fronts getting new bends for ground and motor clearance. The front shocks are in semidroop, rears fully sprung. It got a solid 66* on the board first time up it.
An overhead to show the steering angle. I may try to work with the knucks pointing forward to see if I can improve my Ackerman. I guess alot of guys have been going with the idea of reverse Ackerman giving more usable steering angles since you could max the outer tire and keep the inside tire off the shocks, rather than the opposite. My biggest problem right now is that the shortside Super 300 stub's cup is galled and wants to lock up and throw it out to full lock which stalls the motor. I need to see if I can smooth the surfaces inside the cup and on the ball. I seriously doubt that will be successful, and probably will end up buying replacements.
Here's a shot of it upside down. Pretty easy to flip itself back over.
That's all for now. I stripped all but 3 teeth off the front 3rd gear, and have been running a CKRC for a few days with success. My Mann Gears showed up today and i will try to get them installed, along with all new bearings tomorrow. I think it's cool as hell that you can get all the way into the case by removing 4 screws (tierod, and 3 case screws).
Here are some videos also. I can see how bad my control of the rig was in the first couple, I wasn't used to my new switch layout, etc. I'm a bit better at it now but still have a long way to go before it flows w/o thinking. Disregard the driving in the rock race video, that's a whole 'nother thing there.:mrgreen: These Brood's will get you in trouble quick, I think I actually need to set some steering expo in order to open it up all the way in the yard.:ror:
First day in the Garden with it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmNOeTdPh3I
Climbing a previously unclimbable route:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLN1iIxlDGc
Same climb after tuning my foams:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdR8Xy1HuY8
Trial rock race course. Broke my chassis in 2 places getting this footage.
Still usable but will need to cut the front horns shorter, may not be legal now?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5MV87SLl5w
I had a BJv3 chassis with Losi MOA under it for about 6 months, recycled that into this build as well as most of the links.
I bought the axles used from the classifieds here, and stripped the chassis down while they were being shipped. I had the rig running the day after the axles showed up. I took my time testing shock placement, clearancing any binds, etc, basically bench tuned it as I went. I have been super pleased with how well it works, from day one. Miles above the Losi setup.
That being said, there is room for improvement, and I suppose that's what this thread will be about.
The axles had Super 300's, 86 Jeep steering, VP Hi Steer knucks up front. Will be installing the Dlux Knuckle Weight system in the next couple days, really looking forward to ditching the wheel weights.
Rear has been clocked, Fubar lockouts with RC Axlemaster shafts.
I'm running a pair of Mamba Micro Pros on 40C 3s to a pair of Team Brood 2011 LE 35T motors. I'm using the brand new wantAsummit DX3E Dual ESC Adapter to control them. The motors are pretty amazing, great stuff unless you are a 3rd gear. More on that later. The Dual ESC adapter is an awesome product as well, works perfectly for mixing, saves the expense of swapping out all your Spektrum stuff to Futaba.
Here's a few pics of it as it first came together.
This is my estimated sprung weight, rtr is 5.7 pounds for now.
I was a bit sketched by 3 ears holding a 7950, so i did what I could to make it as strong as possible. This is a RCBros servo clamp I used to help spread the load on the unsupported hole.
This is the cube I managed to squeeze all of the electronics into. I may go back and remove all of the unecessary wiring in the near future. I removed the switch and white motor wire before installation.
Here's a shot from the front, showing the steering and another view of the electronics bundle. I have a Robitronic horn for it, just need to pick it up from a buddy. You can also see the lipo tray attached to the lower links just behind the motor, I plan to make a BTM tray for lipos but I need to order something smaller first. These are 1050's, I get 20-25 minutes out of them.
A couple of side shots, belly is 3" at the front, 3.5 at the back of the skid. My links are set up roughly 60/40 front/rear length, and my weight bias is skewed a little bit further forward than that. The lower links will be Ti soon, with the fronts getting new bends for ground and motor clearance. The front shocks are in semidroop, rears fully sprung. It got a solid 66* on the board first time up it.
An overhead to show the steering angle. I may try to work with the knucks pointing forward to see if I can improve my Ackerman. I guess alot of guys have been going with the idea of reverse Ackerman giving more usable steering angles since you could max the outer tire and keep the inside tire off the shocks, rather than the opposite. My biggest problem right now is that the shortside Super 300 stub's cup is galled and wants to lock up and throw it out to full lock which stalls the motor. I need to see if I can smooth the surfaces inside the cup and on the ball. I seriously doubt that will be successful, and probably will end up buying replacements.
Here's a shot of it upside down. Pretty easy to flip itself back over.
That's all for now. I stripped all but 3 teeth off the front 3rd gear, and have been running a CKRC for a few days with success. My Mann Gears showed up today and i will try to get them installed, along with all new bearings tomorrow. I think it's cool as hell that you can get all the way into the case by removing 4 screws (tierod, and 3 case screws).
Here are some videos also. I can see how bad my control of the rig was in the first couple, I wasn't used to my new switch layout, etc. I'm a bit better at it now but still have a long way to go before it flows w/o thinking. Disregard the driving in the rock race video, that's a whole 'nother thing there.:mrgreen: These Brood's will get you in trouble quick, I think I actually need to set some steering expo in order to open it up all the way in the yard.:ror:
First day in the Garden with it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmNOeTdPh3I
Climbing a previously unclimbable route:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLN1iIxlDGc
Same climb after tuning my foams:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdR8Xy1HuY8
Trial rock race course. Broke my chassis in 2 places getting this footage.
Still usable but will need to cut the front horns shorter, may not be legal now?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5MV87SLl5w
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