6sharky9
RCC Addict
As I near completion of the honcho build and test; ive learned a lot about what improves performance on the scx10 and will pass on the bare minimum to the rubicon as upgrades.
Some of the parts I used on the honcho will not make their way onto the rubicon however as I feel they aren't really needed to get the performance from the vehicle as ive gotten with the Honcho.
So what will not make it on the rubicon you may wonder.
Rear aluminum truss.
Aluminum servo mounts.
Aluminum servo arm.
Universal front axles.
Aluminum motor heat sink.
Aluminum motor plate.
Home made rear upper links.
Aftermarket shocks
Q.)So why not use these items again????
A.) you simply don't need them to get performance from your scx10.
They are nice pieces to have and in the back of anyones mind they
feel more satisfied having upgrades as such as I do on the honcho.
But in reality none of this was needed to gain the performance ive found in the truck.
The best performance gained were basicly free or at a very minimal cost.
A short recap of what gave me my best performance gains parts wise.
1.) A brushed 27T motor with adjustable timing.
2.) 16T motor pinion.
3.) Axial 1.9 beadlocks
4.) Home made lower links
5.) Home made upper steering link
6.) GPM lower steering link
7.) Saddle pack 2s lipo battery
These upgrades have solidly proven to improve the "PERFORMANCE" of the SCX10 Honcho with not a single doubt.
So what else has improved performance then????
All the custom mods ive done to the Honcho.
1.) Removing the rear X brace.( gained down travel and articulation)
2.) Removing the front battery mounting assembly (gained down travel and articulation.
3.) Mounting the saddle pack batteries on the rock sliders.( Lower COG and improved balance.
4.) Centering the ESC more center of the chassis ( improved balance)
5.) Shock hoop bracing..(better stability and tracking)
6.) Balancing the truck.(all around improved performance)
7.) Custom Upper shock mounting (gained stability and articulation)
8.) Adding weight to the beadlock wheels.( massive traction gain)
So this is what has made a huge difference in performance to my Honcho so far and ive still a few more things to do to it that will find their way onto the Rubicon as well.
So why didn't I mention a servo?
A.)Other than the fact the stock RTR servo uses a plastic bushing rather than bearings their is nothing wrong with the power of the stock servo.
Unless you plan to use very large tires or add a large amount of weight to your rig you simply don't need a servo upgrade right off the bat...use it till the bushing wears then consider a Hitec 645MG or the Savox 0251 in the 35 dollar range ( the savox being the more powerful of the 2).
Why not upgraded shocks?
A.) Its known the factory shocks leak but their is a solution to fix the problem...I noticed when the factory shocks did have oil in them they performed quite surprisingly and perform as they were designed to perform...Some suggest using no oil at all and I personally don't believe in this giving the shock the performance they were designed for..Use 10-15 wt oil all the way to the top and bleed the shock for best performance.
Why not upgrade the driveshafts?
A.) this is one of those subjects that seem to fall under a must have first upgrade and I disagree to an extent..If you run a 3s lipo with a super high torque motor and big tires and consistently jam your tires between rocks and pull that trigger hard to try and get out then I say change your driveshafts...If you run a 2s with say a 27t or maybe even a 35t with your RTR 1.9 ripsaws or maxxis trepadors then you do not have to change your driveshafts as a must have upgrade..I use a much much stronger 27T mod motor and have jammed my tires to where when I hit the trigger I wouldn't move and ive done this several times on purpose with zero issues with the stock drive shafts.
We all have out wants and needs as I do but consider this thread a guide for newcomers and those on a budget who wants more performance and in some cases will be more capable than that costly bling bling rig.
As with all things pieces and parts will wear out and you can decide if you choose to upgrade with more bling or replace with factory parts but in all what ive mentioned will give you the best performance and that's what sets the scx10 apart from the others.
I failed to mention tires for a reason..we all run on different terrain and types of rocks..so to say this tire or that tire is best would be a bullet to the head so to speak.
Find what works best in your area and that's the best tire for you.
If you use an RTR AE-2 ESC then use it till it burns up..but only use a 2s lipo and don't use a very high c rating..stay in the 20 to 25c range for reliability.
It provides more than enough power and is a castle creations built product..again keep your battery c rating low.
Same with the stock radio..use it till it fails..its a decent RTR radio.
The RTR motor the same thing; its not the most powerful but it gets the job done with what most will throw at it as a new owner... then use a rebuildable motor with timing adjustment after it burns up..you wont be sorry you did.
Some of the parts I used on the honcho will not make their way onto the rubicon however as I feel they aren't really needed to get the performance from the vehicle as ive gotten with the Honcho.
So what will not make it on the rubicon you may wonder.
Rear aluminum truss.
Aluminum servo mounts.
Aluminum servo arm.
Universal front axles.
Aluminum motor heat sink.
Aluminum motor plate.
Home made rear upper links.
Aftermarket shocks
Q.)So why not use these items again????
A.) you simply don't need them to get performance from your scx10.
They are nice pieces to have and in the back of anyones mind they
feel more satisfied having upgrades as such as I do on the honcho.
But in reality none of this was needed to gain the performance ive found in the truck.
The best performance gained were basicly free or at a very minimal cost.
A short recap of what gave me my best performance gains parts wise.
1.) A brushed 27T motor with adjustable timing.
2.) 16T motor pinion.
3.) Axial 1.9 beadlocks
4.) Home made lower links
5.) Home made upper steering link
6.) GPM lower steering link
7.) Saddle pack 2s lipo battery
These upgrades have solidly proven to improve the "PERFORMANCE" of the SCX10 Honcho with not a single doubt.
So what else has improved performance then????
All the custom mods ive done to the Honcho.
1.) Removing the rear X brace.( gained down travel and articulation)
2.) Removing the front battery mounting assembly (gained down travel and articulation.
3.) Mounting the saddle pack batteries on the rock sliders.( Lower COG and improved balance.
4.) Centering the ESC more center of the chassis ( improved balance)
5.) Shock hoop bracing..(better stability and tracking)
6.) Balancing the truck.(all around improved performance)
7.) Custom Upper shock mounting (gained stability and articulation)
8.) Adding weight to the beadlock wheels.( massive traction gain)
So this is what has made a huge difference in performance to my Honcho so far and ive still a few more things to do to it that will find their way onto the Rubicon as well.
So why didn't I mention a servo?
A.)Other than the fact the stock RTR servo uses a plastic bushing rather than bearings their is nothing wrong with the power of the stock servo.
Unless you plan to use very large tires or add a large amount of weight to your rig you simply don't need a servo upgrade right off the bat...use it till the bushing wears then consider a Hitec 645MG or the Savox 0251 in the 35 dollar range ( the savox being the more powerful of the 2).
Why not upgraded shocks?
A.) Its known the factory shocks leak but their is a solution to fix the problem...I noticed when the factory shocks did have oil in them they performed quite surprisingly and perform as they were designed to perform...Some suggest using no oil at all and I personally don't believe in this giving the shock the performance they were designed for..Use 10-15 wt oil all the way to the top and bleed the shock for best performance.
Why not upgrade the driveshafts?
A.) this is one of those subjects that seem to fall under a must have first upgrade and I disagree to an extent..If you run a 3s lipo with a super high torque motor and big tires and consistently jam your tires between rocks and pull that trigger hard to try and get out then I say change your driveshafts...If you run a 2s with say a 27t or maybe even a 35t with your RTR 1.9 ripsaws or maxxis trepadors then you do not have to change your driveshafts as a must have upgrade..I use a much much stronger 27T mod motor and have jammed my tires to where when I hit the trigger I wouldn't move and ive done this several times on purpose with zero issues with the stock drive shafts.
We all have out wants and needs as I do but consider this thread a guide for newcomers and those on a budget who wants more performance and in some cases will be more capable than that costly bling bling rig.
As with all things pieces and parts will wear out and you can decide if you choose to upgrade with more bling or replace with factory parts but in all what ive mentioned will give you the best performance and that's what sets the scx10 apart from the others.
I failed to mention tires for a reason..we all run on different terrain and types of rocks..so to say this tire or that tire is best would be a bullet to the head so to speak.
Find what works best in your area and that's the best tire for you.
If you use an RTR AE-2 ESC then use it till it burns up..but only use a 2s lipo and don't use a very high c rating..stay in the 20 to 25c range for reliability.
It provides more than enough power and is a castle creations built product..again keep your battery c rating low.
Same with the stock radio..use it till it fails..its a decent RTR radio.
The RTR motor the same thing; its not the most powerful but it gets the job done with what most will throw at it as a new owner... then use a rebuildable motor with timing adjustment after it burns up..you wont be sorry you did.
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