SCX24 Upgrade Questions

[ChaoticReefer]

Hi everyone,
I got a SCX24 (white Jeep version) a few months ago and I am slowly upgrading it. So far, I have converted it to brushless with the Surpass outrunner motor and Furitek TEGU 3S main board. I changed my wheels to Treal beadlocks with MileStar Patagonia tires. I do have Mudslinger tires on hand but need to order beadlock wheels for them. And I added brass wheel weights that are part of the hub hexes. I converted the shocks over to the Double Barrel shocks. The stock servo only worked for 5 mins. I could've claim it under warranty but I went ahead and upgraded it to an Emax with the Shapeway's mount. I changed the Jeep shell over to the Rum Runner (Shapeways) shell. I did end up with Y link in the back (like shell's instructions said to reverse the links). I tried to change the Y link out to 4 links, but the links I had on hand were too long, made it look weird. I am still planning on switching it 4 links, I just have to get the right lengths. Lucky, I still had the original servo tray so I could install the Y link back there and still keep my servo up in the front.

So...my questions:

1) For brass hubs, do I want two of them in the front, to help to pull the rear up or do I want all 4 hubs to be brass to increase the low center of gravity weight?

2) I put brass wheel weights on all 4 wheels, I guess I should have asked the same question as #1 question for those too. Should I had put them in the front only or on all 4 wheels?

3) If I end up getting brass differential covers, on eBay I see some are 9 grams and others are 13 grams, which version of covers should I get?

I would love to receive any advice you guys have, not just based on my questions, but on anything. Much thank you in advance for any advice you can give.

 

[Phyro]

I would try to the get weight bias close to 60/40 split between front and rear.

As for parts to add weight the front hubs and diff covers are great spots. Non rotational and unsprung. But don’t fall into the “everything needs to be brass” trap.

For example, I personally run the front hubs and both diff covers (9g). A lot of the other guys in our group also run this setup as well.

As for the wheel weights, watch the wear on the driveline components. Seen a few of the locals break axle shafts and burn out motors due to these type of weights. They are adding a lot of rotational weight, which stresses the driveline.

 

[XanderBolanos]

Ok I have both the 9g and 13g Hot Racing diff covers. They feel the same by hand, so you can pay $16.99 or $26.99 for 4 grams more? If I wasn’t a name whore, I wouldv’e just used cheap lead weights and gotten the same weight added to the top of servo. I also use the mil creek axle extender, on the front with wheel weights. On the rear tires I use 7mm brass extenders and Treal axle weights. To keep a 60/40 bias