Recently built this as my first crawler. This forum was really helpful seen as everything has moved on so much since I had an RC kit (last RC of any sort was a very very long time ago!) so wanted to share back with the build.
UMG10 kit
Power HD LW-20MG servo
Absima CRS6 transmitter and receiver
Hobbywing Quicrun crawler 1080 ESC
Surpass 540-PLUS 20T 5-slot motor
RC4WD ZE0019 super bright scale light system (remote on and off via transmitter CH3)
Killerbody yellow 5mm LEDs for bumper
Overlander sport LiPo 2200MAh 3S 11.1v 35C (XT60)
Etronix powerpal mini charger
Fastrax metal bumper shackles
Core RC lexan spray paint x2 - Jet black
Core RC lexan spray paint x1 - Flat matt finish
Humbrol acrylic paint for driver
Red Bull decals sourced from Etsy website (actually came from Italy)
Vans decals were from a pair of vans shoes.
I went for a flat black Red Bull design inspired by the F1 cars and things like the Red Bull DJ trucks you see at events. Sprayed black from inside as usual then stuck the decals on the outside. I then used scalpel cut frisket film over the decals to keep them gloss and over sprayed the outside with the flat matt finish. The flat matt is a little rough textured so time will tell on how good it wears (not sure if the Tamyia flat finish is better?). I think it looks a lot better than the gloss finish and I've added the comparison photo.
The kit went together well. I had to lift the servo up very slightly with a couple of metal washers under the mounts as it was butting up on the frame gap. Also needed to set the end points on steering to prevent it pushing on the frame and pumpkin on full lock. I also had the transmission in and out a few times as it didn't seem to run smooth no matter what I did and when running it seemed noisy. Seems a few others building SCX10 iis have the same problem. I put a thin plastic washer on the end of the smaller trans gear tube spacer and didn't tighten the casing too much to help. In the end I realised once the transmission was all together and the slipper fitted it was much smoother and now the noise is mostly from the pinion and spur, listening to youtube vids I think it's about normal level of noise.
I also had to swivel a couple of the rod ends round as after fitting the links I realised the front suspension wasn't quite flexing the same on one side. I'd tried to be really careful on how I put them together as well!
Took a couple of attempts on the ESC connection as I hadn't realised I needed to calibrate the speed (didn't read the instructions properly).
The Killerbody LEDs also had me stumped as they just didn't work on the RC4WD controller but HumboldtEF helped me out on another thread with the tip on checking polarity. I switched the cables in the connector plug and they then worked fine.
Next step is may be some more scale accessories and running it a lot more! Might upgrade the tyres at some point too.
It climbs really well and is far more capable than I thought it was going to be. I'm already considering building another SCX10 ii kit. I might buy another UMG10 kit, sell the UMG specific bits and buy bits to make it a longer wheelbase SCX10 truck. The improvements on the UMG10 kit vs the SCX10 ii raw builders kit is why I'm thinking of doing it this way (lower transmission and centralised drives).
UMG10 kit
Power HD LW-20MG servo
Absima CRS6 transmitter and receiver
Hobbywing Quicrun crawler 1080 ESC
Surpass 540-PLUS 20T 5-slot motor
RC4WD ZE0019 super bright scale light system (remote on and off via transmitter CH3)
Killerbody yellow 5mm LEDs for bumper
Overlander sport LiPo 2200MAh 3S 11.1v 35C (XT60)
Etronix powerpal mini charger
Fastrax metal bumper shackles
Core RC lexan spray paint x2 - Jet black
Core RC lexan spray paint x1 - Flat matt finish
Humbrol acrylic paint for driver
Red Bull decals sourced from Etsy website (actually came from Italy)
Vans decals were from a pair of vans shoes.
I went for a flat black Red Bull design inspired by the F1 cars and things like the Red Bull DJ trucks you see at events. Sprayed black from inside as usual then stuck the decals on the outside. I then used scalpel cut frisket film over the decals to keep them gloss and over sprayed the outside with the flat matt finish. The flat matt is a little rough textured so time will tell on how good it wears (not sure if the Tamyia flat finish is better?). I think it looks a lot better than the gloss finish and I've added the comparison photo.
The kit went together well. I had to lift the servo up very slightly with a couple of metal washers under the mounts as it was butting up on the frame gap. Also needed to set the end points on steering to prevent it pushing on the frame and pumpkin on full lock. I also had the transmission in and out a few times as it didn't seem to run smooth no matter what I did and when running it seemed noisy. Seems a few others building SCX10 iis have the same problem. I put a thin plastic washer on the end of the smaller trans gear tube spacer and didn't tighten the casing too much to help. In the end I realised once the transmission was all together and the slipper fitted it was much smoother and now the noise is mostly from the pinion and spur, listening to youtube vids I think it's about normal level of noise.
I also had to swivel a couple of the rod ends round as after fitting the links I realised the front suspension wasn't quite flexing the same on one side. I'd tried to be really careful on how I put them together as well!
Took a couple of attempts on the ESC connection as I hadn't realised I needed to calibrate the speed (didn't read the instructions properly).
The Killerbody LEDs also had me stumped as they just didn't work on the RC4WD controller but HumboldtEF helped me out on another thread with the tip on checking polarity. I switched the cables in the connector plug and they then worked fine.
Next step is may be some more scale accessories and running it a lot more! Might upgrade the tyres at some point too.
It climbs really well and is far more capable than I thought it was going to be. I'm already considering building another SCX10 ii kit. I might buy another UMG10 kit, sell the UMG specific bits and buy bits to make it a longer wheelbase SCX10 truck. The improvements on the UMG10 kit vs the SCX10 ii raw builders kit is why I'm thinking of doing it this way (lower transmission and centralised drives).
