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RC4WD Tacoma Double Cab on SCX10II CF rails

Goro Majima

Rock Crawler
Subscribed Member
Joined
May 4, 2021
Messages
927
Location
NorCal
Finished this build a few days ago, #5 of my Toyota Lexan Crawler list. This may be an older body when it debuted to the RC world but it was a must-have to add to the fleet. As you all know it's a pretty narrow body, but I did my best with a set of 1.55's and a slightly shorter tire than a 4.19. With how I have the arches trimmed and body sitting, the only rubbing is the front of the front arches but it's not that bad. Very doable and most importantly I can keep the look.

This build isn't 100% finished though as you don't see the front bumper installed and hope I'm not forgetting to mention anything. I've got the newly released Team Garage Hack single bar bumper kit (sample pic below) on the way for the front. I think it will be the perfect solution for this front end. Kept the small lip there with the upper mounting holes for the stock bumper still just in case I want to hack that bumper and be able to install it. Also debating on overdrive, but need more run time on it. So far it's an amazing crawler despite the rear overhang on departure. I'll include a running video when I get the chance.

Parts list:
- Amazon: CF rails/front bumper mount (servo relocation)/CF cross member (battery/electronics tray)/rear aluminum cross member
- 3S Micro X/1100kv Team Brood Riot SS outrunner 9T pinion/JX 35kg servo
- Austar 3 gear transmission
- Stock skid
- InTheWorks RC titanium high clearance links (SCX10II to 10.3 AR45 straight axles)
- SSD aluminum C hubs
- Traxxas 2660 big bore shocks/Mini T spring combo (50wt F/R, need to try 40wt)
- RC4WD 1.55 steelies/Pitbull Braven Berserker (3.95)
- Front "fool" stage foams
- Cheap shimmed steel driveshafts (will upgrade to Incisions)
- Rock Pirates RC front shock towers (splitting body mount diameter in half allowed reuse of SCX10 holes I previously made when I had the stock towers on)
- Rear universal shock towers
- Team Brood B-Mag 78mm Magnesium posts/braces
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BUMP steer update. Received some links for a few of the projects and one of the links was the panhard. The adjustable link would work 100% without binds but it's a good link to use for getting proper measurements down so it stays temporary. After the few tinkers done /, I'm satisfied.
- Flipped servo
- Swapped servo horn to Protec
- 2mm spacer between drag/tie rod link
- Rotated tie rod downward to clear servo horn screw

After the 2mm spacer + Protec servo horn swap, even though the drag & panhard aren't perfectly aligned on their angles, it's the best setup. 1mm spacer gets it closer to the same angle, but is slightly worse then the 2mm. And no spacer gets the angles practically identical, but isn't any better than the 1mm.
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I don't own a set of Desert Lizard shocks so I figured I'd add them to this build and swap out the budget Traxxas 2660 big bores. I'll probably do full droop utilizing all short springs.
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Got some running footage with my LC80 TRX4 the other day (which I also posted in that thread).

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Few minor updates. The Desert Lizards are on, short soft springs on droop side. And installed some KYX aluminum red diff covers front and rear. They match the red shocks well.

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Got some updates for this rig.

1Tenth BMF695 direct powered servo. Nothing wrong with the previous servo, but just wanted something direct.

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Had to swap to the HH Crawlmaster V2 for that silent treatment. So much more pleasing to control now. Also the wheel and tire combo has changed. Still Pitbull but I had these Rock Beasts laying around from my first attempt of my #8 LC70 build. Still kept the 1.55 RC4WD Cherokee mesh wheels in those tires so I just swapped them on here.

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Fast forward to 3/11/23 for the Amain Crawl at the Hatchery in Oroville and here it is next another RCer using the same body.

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Here's aftermath after that run on the rocks. It's got a few scratches now but still in good shape. I'd like to not get any more lol.

At first, I didn't like the look of these wheels on this truck. But after I took it out to the rocks, that's when they started to grow on me and these tires actually did really well for being wet. I planned on painting some gun metal Boom Racing TE37s I have white, but I halted that idea as I didn't want the white to chip off easily.




And last but not least, sorry I don't have any real action shots from the aforementioned meet but I will say that I swapped to springless 120mm Desert Lizards (40f/50r shock oil) and kept the same ride height. Had them on before the meet and loved how it performed. Also has SSD brass front and rear.

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Front right barely not grounded.

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Some flex shots.

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Dig those wheels and tires over the last set! How the heck are you using the stock mirrors I been breaking them off left and right! Was going to order rc4wd rubber 4runner mirrors to try out. I started scratching my fresh Tacoma build as well but that’s part of the price of wheeling!
 
Great looking truck and that's some serious articulation there!! "thumbsup"
Thanks and yeah I love that it's a ridiculous amount of articulation, and probably safe to say the most out of my rigs.
Dig those wheels and tires over the last set! How the heck are you using the stock mirrors I been breaking them off left and right! Was going to order rc4wd rubber 4runner mirrors to try out. I started scratching my fresh Tacoma build as well but that’s part of the price of wheeling!
Glad I'm not the only one!

About the mirrors, I drilled the holes out for the mounting posts a tad larger which let's the E6000 glue do all of the work so thanks to it's flexibility they go back to regular position when they get pushed on. I was certain I was gonna break one off on a certain line but it just folded in and back out once I passed the rock.
 
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You know what sux? When you put two new fresh painted mirrors on that I ordered from rc4wd and within 5 minutes break one of haha. How do you like that bumper I am using the stock lower valance all trimmed up and I love how tight it is to the chassis. I may eventually trim that lower plastic and go with a metal bumper but for now I like the clean cut factory look- and I have the light kit which has those marker lights. Your Tacoma is A plus my friend!
 
You know what sux? When you put two new fresh painted mirrors on that I ordered from rc4wd and within 5 minutes break one of haha. How do you like that bumper I am using the stock lower valance all trimmed up and I love how tight it is to the chassis. I may eventually trim that lower plastic and go with a metal bumper but for now I like the clean cut factory look- and I have the light kit which has those marker lights. Your Tacoma is A plus my friend!

These same mirrors in rubber would be perfect.

The TGH bumper I love a lot. It's nothing scale looking, but it fits this build perfectly.

You should get another stock front bumper so you can hack it up and still have a full one.
 
If you can read, you read right. Decided I'm going to give this rig a super short bed! Love the look of the bed and bumper but hanging it up on lines way too many times just got old. And a bobbed bed will match the more aggressive front end.

Other than that mod, I've also got some Power Hobby dual stage foams coming. These stock foams have held up but there are points where I wish I had more conforming of the tires.

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Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
 
Yes I love this truck! Please document the bed bob process for us newbies very interested. By the way I wheeled my Tacoma on a recent camping trip hard as hell it and it did awesom! It is officially broken in by way of mud and rock - she is no virgin shelf queen any more.
 
Here's my process of the bobbing of the bed. This is my 2nd bed bob I've done and the first go seems to work well (for me). Few things you have to consider is triple check your measurements and decide where you want the tailgate to sit. I decided to put the tailgate basically at the back of the rear wheels.

Even thought there's 1 line visible once you're done, you really need to cut 2 lines, and the middle section will be deleted (but save that section for later). Starting with the first line to cut, I decided to just line the 1" masking tape with the rear of the bed to use as a reference point. 1" from the rear is a good amount of "meat" left on to help remount it back to the body.

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2nd piece of tape. 3 reasons why I put the tape in this particular spot. 1, this is where the rear of the tire lines up. 2, the angle of the wheel arches flows right into the top of the bottom light in the taillights (taillights have 2 rows of lights now rather than 3), and finally that position lines up with mounting a different rear bumper.

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Point of no return!

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Put another piece of tape here since it's a flatter surface rather than on the tailgate itself.

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I cut the sides with scissors and the bed floor I use this ruler to help guide a razor to make a nice crisp line.

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Just need to cut this line.

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Rear is officially 2 pieces. Remember, the middle piece will be reused to give the tailgate some structure once it's glued. You can easily use some other plastic but I prefer the spare piece because it already has the same paint.

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Glued the spare piece to the tailgate side and clamped it overnight. And I actually cut the spare piece into 3pcs so it can be glued.

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Power Hobby soft dual stage foams went in and work awesome.

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Used aluminum tape to help keep the bond secure. Also you can see I officially installed a metal rear bumper which I will sand down to turn it raw to match the front bumper. And the taillights are still clear, but I plan to scuff the lenses and use colored Sharpies to finish em off.

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Didn't get any worthy outdoor pictures but here's more usual desktop pictures.

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Thank you for the beautiful pictures and write up. That looks fantastic and will be such a high performance upgrade out on the rocks. I think I would do I slightly milder version but use your same tactics. Great work"thumbsup"
 
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