Proline Paint - never dries?

[OSRC]

So who has used Proline's paint? I'm having a heck of a time with it.

Normally I use Fascolor, but supplies are quickly drying up. I'm slowly been switching to Proline and it just doesn't seem to stick.

I do the same routine I do with Fascolor...using a Testors Airbrush, small Lowes compressor with dual water traps on the line:

• Scuff the inside of the body
• Wash thoroughly with dish soap
• Mask anything that needs to be masked
• Re-wipe with windex/window cleaner to remove any finger grease
• Spray

If doing the outside, I trim off the overspray film and usually shoot it with black immediately.

Trouble is the PL paint never seems to "set" - I've let it dry in the sun outside for a day or two, or inside for a few days... even hit it with a hair dryer initially until most of the liquid evaporates away, then give it a few days to set. No matter how it dries, the paint still seems tacky. It's almost sticky and takes fingerprints if I hold in one spot too long. Not to mention comes right off if I scrape too hard.

Using the same method with Fascolor it comes out fine. Just painted the Capra body with all Fascolor and it's already set overnight. Painted dozens of bodies over the years with no issues. But my TRX4 body where I used PL black paint on the roof is still "tacky," and it's been days.

Already had 2 bodies turn out like crap, including a very nice VS410 body that I feel like I ruined for another forum member, and a recent Axial Cherokee that I'm sure I ruined. Looks ok now for the most part, but just handing it I'm scratching paint off.

Any tips or ideas would be appreciated. Painting is not my strong suit at all.

 

[LSXGMC]

This sounds like a classic case of applying the paint too heavy / thick coats. Not all brands are the same so I’d try applying this Proline paint a little thinner and see where you get with it. I’m sure you know that many thin coats is always better than fewer thicker coats.

 

[mikemcE]

Well I’ve shot both Parma and Proline.
My issue is my AB is not a huge hole, but a detail brush. So WB paints are challenging vs solvent. When I shot the Proline it called for a low psi, and shoot without reducing. That failed miserably, dry tip , clumping and clogging. I then upped psi to 45 from 30, reduced about 10% and it worked much better. It flashes and dries like Parma or Auto Air, cool hairdryer helped. Did you thin with windex? As ammonia is a solvent that might cause binding problems.


Hang up and Drive

 

[OSRC]

This sounds like a classic case of applying the paint too heavy / thick coats. Not all brands are the same so I’d try applying this Proline paint a little thinner and see where you get with it. I’m sure you know that many thin coats is always better than fewer thicker coats.

I do thin coats, especially the first one. I try and get a thin sealer coat down first, then come back with several light passes drying them with a hair dryer inbetween usually if I'm pressed for time. I may try going thinner, though not sure how much thinner i can get.

Well I’ve shot both Parma and Proline.
My issue is my AB is not a huge hole, but a detail brush. So WB paints are challenging vs solvent. When I shot the Proline it called for a low psi, and shoot without reducing. That failed miserably, dry tip , clumping and clogging. I then upped psi to 45 from 30, reduced about 10% and it worked much better. It flashes and dries like Parma or Auto Air, cool hairdryer helped. Did you thin with windex? As ammonia is a solvent that might cause binding problems.

I don't thin it down at all, at least not yet. So far it sprays very well right out of the bottle. No issues there. Goes on beautifully, and dries in about the same time the Fascolor does. Just never fully hardens.

On a side note, I use a Testors Aztec brush with a wide tip at anywhere from 40-60 PSI. Anything lower and it won't pull the paint out of the cup...Parma, Proline or otherwise (Water based anyway).... Just seems to like higher pressure.

 

[mikemcE]

I do thin coats, especially the first one. I try and get a thin sealer coat down first, then come back with several light passes drying them with a hair dryer inbetween usually if I'm pressed for time. I may try going thinner, though not sure how much thinner i can get.







I don't thin it down at all, at least not yet. So far it sprays very well right out of the bottle. No issues there. Goes on beautifully, and dries in about the same time the Fascolor does. Just never fully hardens.



On a side note, I use a Testors Aztec brush with a wide tip at anywhere from 40-60 PSI. Anything lower and it won't pull the paint out of the cup...Parma, Proline or otherwise (Water based anyway).... Just seems to like higher pressure.

Well if it’s spraying smooth and not running, but not curing is it flashing to flat between coats? Unreduced might be the issue then. You’re doing the same procedures as I do, so surface issues, paint issues usually have a logical reason. I would reach out to ProLine with email, the email always been good to me.

One note, I sprayed 5 colors, they ALL were different viscosity in the bottles.
Silver, White, Black, Hot Pink, Fuchsia, that’s why I used reducer, to get a level base, that’s when I went up 15 to 45.
Parma needs 65/70 for me with a 20% reduction. Drys like epoxy

Hang up and Drive

 

[fyrstormer]

It's possible you got a badly-mixed batch, but just for reference, when I paint with Duratrax or Tamiya paints, the paint takes a full week before it loses every last hint of tackiness. The flex agents added to Lexan paints slow-down the curing time significantly.

 

[OSRC]

Well if it’s spraying smooth and not running, but not curing is it flashing to flat between coats?

Yes, It is curing to flat between coats.

... just for reference, when I paint with Duratrax or Tamiya paints, the paint takes a full week before it loses every last hint of tackiness. The flex agents added to Lexan paints slow-down the curing time significantly.

True, my Parma paints take about a week until they are fully cured, but they are not as nearly as tacky for as long...I should be able to at least handle a body for assembly after 2 full days drying without paint scratching off at the lightest touch.

I'm going to try reducing them slightly and going with thinner coats if I can to see if it makes a difference.

 

[mikemcE]

Are you using heat/ hot air to flash?


Hang up and Drive

 

[OSRC]

Hair dryer on high, but held well away from the body. Basicially blowing warm air on it. I dont want to cook it in any way. Body is only slightly warm when done.

 

[mikemcE]

Hair dryer on high, but held well away from the body. Basicially blowing warm air on it. I dont want to cook it in any way. Body is only slightly warm when done.

That might be your culprit. I can’t remember where, I think it was an Auto Air PDF that stated heat not wanted when drying, only room temp air. I always did that with Parma


Hang up and Drive

 

[fyrstormer]

Yes, It is curing to flat between coats.



True, my Parma paints take about a week until they are fully cured, but they are not as nearly as tacky for as long...I should be able to at least handle a body for assembly after 2 full days drying without paint scratching off at the lightest touch.

I'm going to try reducing them slightly and going with thinner coats if I can to see if it makes a difference.

Okay, yeah, something's either wrong with the ingredients your mixing to make your paint, or the mix ratios you're using. Too much flex agent, maybe?