Newbie Phoenix question

[HMNYC]

Hi all. I just finished building my Pheonix strait axle. This is my first time building a car and although I found the assembly pretty straight forward ( thanks to this forum and Youtube ) and super enjoyable I have a couple of questions now its time to set up the electronics.

1. I have a Mamba X censored ECU with a 2850 Castle combo. Can I just mount the ecu with double sided servo mount tape? It doesn't seem to fit very well into the space on the chassis? There are holes in the chassis below where the ECU goes, is this meant for a custom mount?

2. I have a FS-GT5 controller. Does using channel 4 for the overdrive servo and channel 3 for the Dig make the most sense?

3. I do not own a PC, only Mac computers. I have ordered the castle B link blue tooth adapter. Will I be able to do all necessary set up with that?

Thank you,

Mike

 

[HMNYC]

Here is a photo of my set up. Does this look correct? thanks.

 

[twade984]

Hi all. I just finished building my Pheonix strait axle. This is my first time building a car and although I found the assembly pretty straight forward ( thanks to this forum and Youtube ) and super enjoyable I have a couple of questions now its time to set up the electronics.

1. I have a Mamba X censored ECU with a 2850 Castle combo. Can I just mount the ecu with double sided servo mount tape? It doesn't seem to fit very well into the space on the chassis? There are holes in the chassis below where the ECU goes, is this meant for a custom mount?

2. I have a FS-GT5 controller. Does using channel 4 for the overdrive servo and channel 3 for the Dig make the most sense?

3. I do not own a PC, only Mac computers. I have ordered the castle B link blue tooth adapter. Will I be able to do all necessary set up with that?

Thank you,

Mike

1 Yes, double sided tape is most common for mounting electronics, and no the Phoenix does not have a lot of available real estate for electronics. Also, the mamba x being one of the larger options out there.

2 IMO that is the best option. I prefer having dig as an on/off switch. I found when operating dig on ch4, if I was trying to engage dig while on any incline, it would hit “neutral” and the rig would not hold position

It could be that there’s an argument to be made for having the option to disengage the rear axle but not lock it. I don’t even have dig in any of my current rigs…

3 can’t help you there, I’ve never used the Bluetooth


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[OutLore]

My preference for ESC mounting is always the super heavy duty hook & loop tape (the type that's hard on both sides, not the soft fluffy stuff) - it allows a mount strong enough to pick up most vehicles by the ESC but still leaves it removable in case you want to switch it out with a different one etc. I have also used it for body mounts but because lexan bodies are thin I always feel that I'm gonna tear one, but I have not actually done that yet.

 

[indybama]

I tryed using ch3 for my dig, but it screwed me royally at scale nats. It would lock, then maybe engage the rear, but mostly stuck in nuetral. Thats where it bit me in the tail. Ive got o/d on ch 5 n dig on ch 6, which is where i shouldve left it.

Now my capra, with VP 3 gear n dig, is on ch 3 n works perfectly

 

[Thorsteenster]

So no Vanquish experience here but I do have the B link and a FS-GT5 in my Capra.
The BLink is awesome and can set everything on itWell, atleast everything I needed to.
I have my dig setup on chan 4 and adjusted the servo so the dig is 3 position, locked, driven, and neutral.
I have a Mamba Micro that has an extra RX plug, forget what it's called but can set it up to adjust a selectable feature on the fly.
I did this on chan 5 to adjust drag brake. If yours has this I would play around with it, very nice being able to enable/disable drag as needed.

 

[HMNYC]

Awesome, thank you so much for the help. This forum is the best. Thank you! Now I just need it to warm up enough to paint!!!

Mike

 

[twade984]

Awesome, thank you so much for the help. This forum is the best. Thank you! Now I just need it to warm up enough to paint!!!

Mike

You probably already know, but you need to adjust servo end points. This can be tricky for the o/d and dig servos.

If they are not adjusted properly you can jam the teeth on either mechanism and it won’t fully engage. Plus it will overheat the servo if it’s trying to push past.


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[HMNYC]

You probably already know, but you need to adjust servo end points. This can be tricky for the o/d and dig servos.

If they are not adjusted properly you can jam the teeth on either mechanism and it won’t fully engage. Plus it will overheat the servo if it’s trying to push past.

Thanks, I am aware that I need to do that but not super sure how. I should disconnect the servo horns when I do the initial start up yes? Allow the servo to center itself and then go from there. And each needs to be set up individually with the others disconnected? I am assuming I start with the motor and steering connections ( channel 1 and 2 ) and then move to o/d and dig? I found a YouTube video from upgraded RC showing how to set the end points which I think I can follow and I managed to dig my old soldering kit out of storage today so once I get the IC5 connections on the ECU I am ready to get started.

 

[surfishjoe]

Hi, I am in the process of figuring this out myself. I have gone through 2 shift servos at the channel 3 position. The first was my fault but the second time I thought I had it all set fine and servo still got hot and died. I am using channel 4 as OD w the middle position being unlocked/ rear wheel drive. What are the advantages of using channel 5 and 6 for shifting? I am new to gt5 and vs410.

 

[indybama]

I use ch 5 for o/d n ch6 for dig. I did set end points, but i can also back the knob off just a touch if i hear the servo whine. Helps keep from killin them

 

[surfishjoe]

Thanks I think I am going to change it to 5 and 6 as well.

 

[HMNYC]

So, I got my ECU battery wires soldered and mounted with 3M hook and loop tape ( thanks Outlore ) but then realized l had not connected the sensor cable to the back of the motor before mounting in the chassis and now I don't have access to it. So, I guess I will be pulling everything apart. In the good news dept. I got my driver painted and I think he looks a little like an older Paul Newman ready to hit the track. Ha.

 

[HMNYC]

Back again, sorry. I connected my steering servo and throttle to the ECU today and installed the Castle B link blue tooth adapter. At first everything worked great and I was able to drive around the living room. I made one change to the brake settings on the Castle app ( switched to Crawl brake ) and sent to the unit. Since then the throttle does not respond and the Mamba X is beeping and flashing non stop. If I look that up it says throttle issue but I have changed nothing. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[HMNYC]

I should add that all the wires are connected from the ECU to the receiver in the right order and I have tried manually reseting the Data log. Also the steering is working fine.

Mike

 

[HMNYC]

Got my paint on. Nothing too original but I love how yellow and black look together. Still trying to decide how the wheels will be set up.

 

[Steven McKay]

That looks sharp, yes the contrast looks very good."thumbsup"

 

[HMNYC]

That looks sharp, yes the contrast looks very good."thumbsup"

Thanks! I was happy how it turned out. First time painting a body. Wont be the last. I really enjoyed this build. Now just need to get it running!!!

 

[surfishjoe]

I think the mustard yellow looks great- that’s an original toyota landcruiser color. Just an FYI I switched the od and dig to channel 5 and 6 much easier to set end points and everything functions perfectly thanks indybama.

 

[B-MOW71]

Great job on your first build! Looks like it all came together great!

Nice choice on the driver! Mr. Paul Newman looks great sitting in the drivers seat!