New To This Build

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

This is my first crawler and my first major Kit. I bought a SCX10 Wrangler Unlimited Kit. I own a Jeep Wrangler TJ and I hope I can get my hands on a new bright TJ body. If the 12.3" wheel base works with the body I will run it like a TJ. If not I will run it like a LJ and base it off Poison Spyder Customs Daddy LongLeg 1/1 build. My background in automotive and mechanical should help me in this build. And Google.. Google is going to help out! The first few things I want to do is put a CMS/Panhard Kit and some 1.9 D window SSD beadlock wheels. I'm going to base my build on Harley's 50 dollars a week build. I will post more info soon!

-Jeffrey

Got ahold of a new bright body, waiting for the SCX10 to arrive might be later this week.

Ordered the SSD CMS Kit for the SCX10 and some green slime for the shock build. Maybe this Friday I will order the SSD D Window beadlock wheels.

Ordered the JCAD RULR. I noticed the jeep has a lot of squat while under acceleration and while climbing the testing grounds by my parents place. Also I'm looking at making some upper links for the rear to have all metal links. It looks like they are 95MM? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[WhatsInYourHead]

Sounds like you are off to a good start, I recomend a vanquish link kit.. I just put a set on my 12.3wb power wagon and it improved its capability quite abit. truck looks awesome.

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

Thanks! My kit came with metal lower links and the SSD CMS/Panhard Kit replaced the plastic upper link with a metal 3 link setup. And the steering was metal. I want to upgrade the rod ends. I think I'm getting some play from that. And the knuckles would be a good start upgrade too. If I have the money I want to get currie axles front and rear to add some LCOG. The rear upper link is still plastic a easy fix would be to buy vanquish 3/16x95 links and that will give me complete metal links.

 

[WhatsInYourHead]

I can't remember which part number it is but traxxas rod ends make for good replacements and they are easy to find"thumbsup" and as for knuckles I'd like to upgrade too but I just don't know which ones to go with yet.

 

[rcntncrawler]

I can't remember which part number it is but traxxas rod ends make for good replacements and they are easy to find"thumbsup" and as for knuckles I'd like to upgrade too but I just don't know which ones to go with yet.

If you're talking about the Traxxas Revo Rod Ends, the part # is #5347.

My STRC knuckles and C-Hubs are working great. Surprising, since they are not very expensive.

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

Installed the JCAD RULR (rear upper link relocation) gives the SCX10 a better anti-squat and I noticed it climbs better now. I don't like that its plastic but overall a good concept. Can't wait till JCAD gets their chassis out for sale. I will definitely pick up 2 of them!

I've been working on a New Bright TJ body. I've been in the process of chopping it up. I've gotten the rear stretched to a LJ length to work with the 12.3WB and removed the doors for an added look. But the floor is raised from the bottom of the door... Thinking about either cutting the floor and lowering it. For the rear I have some 26g sheet metal to make some fenders out of, and used the 1.1 Chris Durham Motorsports as a concept for my hood on mini jeep. I don't know about roll cage yet. Pictures soon!

And I think I got my wife into crawling. She told me last night she can get into this. So maybe a deadbolt is in the future or a G6 kit. I'm leaning to a kit so we can have a project together.

 

[johnnyluv]

I've been working on a New Bright TJ body. I've been in the process of chopping it up. I've gotten the rear stretched to a LJ length to work with the 12.3WB and removed the doors for an added look. But the floor is raised from the bottom of the door... Thinking about either cutting the floor and lowering it. For the rear I have some 26g sheet metal to make some fenders out of, and used the 1.1 Chris Durham Motorsports as a concept for my hood on mini jeep. I don't know about roll cage yet. Pictures soon!

Yes, pics please!

Did you stretch the body by adding a section of polystyrene? I've got a Nikko TJ body, which has a 10" wb, but has good width, and large enough fenders to mount on a full length SCX10 (12 - 12.3"), so I've toyed with the idea of cutting it in half and making it into a stretched TJ, which I'm guessing is what you have been doing. I could shorten my current STRC short wheelbase chassis, to fit a 10" wb, but then most, if not all, climbing capabilities would be nullified.

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

My wife picked the G6 Falken edition, I'm going to order that tomorrow. I've been messing with bondo on the new bright body, I need to clean up the stretch areas. With the roll cage I heard brake line? What should I use to keep it scale?

Yes, pics please!

Did you stretch the body by adding a section of polystyrene? I've got a Nikko TJ body, which has a 10" wb, but has good width, and large enough fenders to mount on a full length SCX10 (12 - 12.3"), so I've toyed with the idea of cutting it in half and making it into a stretched TJ, which I'm guessing is what you have been doing. I could shorten my current STRC short wheelbase chassis, to fit a 10" wb, but then most, if not all, climbing capabilities would be nullified.

Yeah I stretched it to a LJ length, but even then the rear tires are still at the edge of the body, I will post some pictures in the next few days. I used some recycled plastic I had from a plastic tote.

Been in the process of sanding the body. Removed most of the original mud slinger stickers. Tonight I'm going to work on the fender wells. I found a 5.5" hole saw in my parents garage and it fit the template. Gonna try and not cut my hand off tonight.

 

[johnnyluv]

Been in the process of sanding the body. Removed most of the original mud slinger stickers.

I've got a New Bright Hummer H3 ”Mud Slinger" edition. It has those same stickers, as well as that fake, painted on mud, which looks more peach colored, than mud. Haha... I have plans to eventually strip all that off, because underneath is a nice, olive green shell.
No chassis for it, yet, and I don't think I'd try stretching it.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

I've got a New Bright Hummer H3 ”Mud Slinger" edition. It has those same stickers, as well as that fake, painted on mud, which looks more peach colored, than mud. Haha... I have plans to eventually strip all that off, because underneath is a nice, olive green shell.
No chassis for it, yet, and I don't think I'd try stretching it.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I used the wire attachment with my drimel. But I'm gonna need to sand it down. I actually picked up a can of olive drab but I'm going a different route, I'm going more race colors bright colors.

I need help making the roll cage.

 

[skerb]

I would suggest 3/16" solid rod, it's a bit heavier than brake line, but is very easy to cut, bend, and weld.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

I would suggest 3/16" solid rod, it's a bit heavier than brake line, but is very easy to cut, bend, and weld.

View attachment 326686


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Are you apart of Carolina Scale Crawlers? I've been watching some youtube videos from "wilbywise" and your TJ shows up in his videos a lot. I'm friends with Todd on facebook he does amazing work. So 3/16" solid rod. I'm going to look into getting that this week and mocking up something to take to work to get welded up. If I can't get them to weld it up would you be willing to help if your local to me?

 

[TacoCrawler]

If you're talking about the Traxxas Revo Rod Ends, the part # is #5347.

My STRC knuckles and C-Hubs are working great. Surprising, since they are not very expensive.

^ just a clarification to minimize any confusion...

the Traxxas Revo rod ends # 5347
are 4mm threaded shank ID

whereas...

the Traxxas # 1942 are the 3mm threaded shank ID

^ both utilize a 3mm OD bolt/nut, to secure the hollow steel ball end(s).

---------------

just sayin'
so folks purchase the correct ball ends
for the particular thread/insert OD they plan to utilize. *

* the stock Axial link kits utilize the 3mm threaded shank ID.

 

[skerb]

Are you apart of Carolina Scale Crawlers? I've been watching some youtube videos from "wilbywise" and your TJ shows up in his videos a lot. I'm friends with Todd on facebook he does amazing work. So 3/16" solid rod. I'm going to look into getting that this week and mocking up something to take to work to get welded up. If I can't get them to weld it up would you be willing to help if your local to me?

Yes I'm a part of the Carolina scale crawlers. I'm in columbia and could help

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

Yes I'm a part of the Carolina scale crawlers. I'm in columbia and could help

I like the look of your cage and how you did the fast back. I was skimming your build thread and made me think; will my stretch hold up to abuse. The main area is above the wheel well. I think the 26G steel should hold it together. I'm going to have it bolted up like yours. I picked up some 3/16" solid rod for the main B hoop and 3/16" brake line for the rest of the tube work. I should be getting ready to work on the tube work soon.

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

Still need to do something about the gap where I stretched it and should have the roll cage welded this week. I used solid for the main hoop and brake line for the rest. Here are some long awaited pictures!!

 

[rodman13]

Looking good, can't wait to see how it turns out. It's awesome that your wife is into it too. Hoping I can get my wife into crawling too, give us something we can both mess around with.

 

[ScGRaceR]

looks awesome! cant wait for more updates!

 

[TaylorJeffreyJr]

What are your thoughts on the Grille? I know some people in the 1.1 will black out their entire grille. In my situation it will hide the part I cut out to clear the servo mount. I still need to make some fenders for the front and rock rails with some boat side action.

 

[rodman13]

What are your thoughts on the Grille? I know some people in the 1.1 will black out their entire grille. In my situation it will hide the part I cut out to clear the servo mount. I still need to make some fenders for the front and rock rails with some boat side action.

Would be personal preference. I never blacked out my grill on my 1:1 rubicon, but thought that others looked good.

I'd say if it helps hide the cut part, try the spray on plastidip like the 1:1 rigs. If you don't like it, I would guess it would peel off just the same? Don't know that I've seen anywhere that anyone has tried it, but I haven't searched either.

Could always spray it on a cut off part and see if it sticks well and comes off easy.