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New Rubicon Saturday. Ruined it Sunday

Timmomo

Newbie
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
8
Location
Urbana
:shock:
Greets. First post ever today. Glad I have you to count on for feedback--and plan on giving back as my account here matures.

Here's my deal: Found out how to do massive wheelies with my new Rubicon (SCX-10). Mostly because I tried to fiddle with the ESC knowing nothing about how to set it--I managed to make it go super fast backwards, eliminated my drag brake and was left with lackluster forward speed--but I digress.

I'm a dork, I know I thrashed something--it's going to cost me. But since I'm new to this powertrain system, I could really uses some advice from crawler "old-timers". Poppin' wheelies has resulted in regular forward action, but when gently nudge up against an obstacle and attempt to traverse it--the model shrieks from the transfer case area and largely does not move forward. And of course, as you might expect, it sounds like a 4-wheel coffee grinder everywhere it goes--louder in corners.

Based on what I've described, what do you suppose I've done? I think I'll need to eliminate all the nylon / plastic'ish parts in my drive train so here are my questions:

1) It's an RTR, I'm a little skeered to take it apart I haven't set up a workbench (no room) yet, and as a noob, the fewer things I take a part the more likely they're to get back together. I'm looking for a consensus as to WHERE the problem MOST LIKELY is. Could it be in the pumpkins or just in the transfer case? _Just_ a pinion/spur gear, or deep in the transmission?

2) While I'm at it, what power-train upgrade would you recommend to eliminate this problem from happening again? I'll quit drivin' like a dork--cuz fixin' it is expensive, but I'd rather drive the way I wanna drive. Ideas here?

1000 domos my new friends. I appreciate you taking a few minutes to straighten me OUT.

.-=Timmo=-.
:roll:
 
Well I would likely guess its probably transmission related, or maybe just the slipper on the spur gear being too loose. Easiest thing to do would be to pull the driveshafts from the trans and spin each axle and make sure they are good, but I am guessing they are probably fine, then you will know its the trans for sure. 4 screws and a few wire plugs gets the whole trans out for you, and removing the spur and taking 3 more screws out gets it opened up. Its most likely the plastic gears in there. Best bet would be to replace them with metal, like from robinson racing.

good luck with your search, its not all that bad to pull apart and get back together.
 
Like said above, can't go wrong with those Robinson gears. Also if your in Urbana IL just cruise over to Tower or Horizion Hobbies, someone can help you out most likely. Also the guys at hotslots are super cool and they got a lot of fun stuff to play with!!

I L L!!"thumbsup"
 
Odds are the idler gear in the trans went if the spur gear checks out. Drop in a metal gear from Robinson and don't look back.
 
Thank you for your input gentlemen. I'm going to start with TGH's recommedations. I've since been shopping for replacement all metal solutions for the transmission although I have not YET pulled anything apart. I really think I wanna go all metal--as much as possible--with the exception of axle housings. I don't care to FINANCE my purchases..lol (VANQUISH--my bank account). :)
 
Don't be afraid to take it apart. You're going to have to learn how to do it sooner or later, might as well make it sooner.
 
Thanks again for the suggestions and troubleshooting. Here's what I found:

Oreo (spur) gear was in FACT ground up a little. Replaced it with an Axial replacement 88t. Checked the mesh and realized it "could be a little tighter", loosened the motor mounts and made a better mesh. THAT WAS WHEN I DISCOVERED that the drive gear grub screw was loose. That extra slack in the drive gear no doubt had been at the core of my problem from the start.

Lesson learned: Perform a fitness check of your new RTR before you go out the first time--give a tender twist to any and all screws, and for GOODNESS sake make sure your drive gear is TIGHT on the motor spindle.

I think I'll chalk this up as a NEWB lesson learned.

NOW, if ONLY I could have kept it out of the puddle last weekend.

:oops:Recommendations for a turn-key waterproof ESC for a 2012 Jeep Rubicon?:oops:
 
also dont be afraid to use some medium thread locker on some of your hardware. i also check most of my harware every few runs just to make sure everyones still doing what they are supposed to. "thumbsup"
 
Thanks again for the suggestions and troubleshooting. Here's what I found:

Oreo (spur) gear was in FACT ground up a little. Replaced it with an Axial replacement 88t. Checked the mesh and realized it "could be a little tighter", loosened the motor mounts and made a better mesh. THAT WAS WHEN I DISCOVERED that the drive gear grub screw was loose. That extra slack in the drive gear no doubt had been at the core of my problem from the start.

Lesson learned: Perform a fitness check of your new RTR before you go out the first time--give a tender twist to any and all screws, and for GOODNESS sake make sure your drive gear is TIGHT on the motor spindle.

I think I'll chalk this up as a NEWB lesson learned.

NOW, if ONLY I could have kept it out of the puddle last weekend.

:oops:Recommendations for a turn-key waterproof ESC for a 2012 Jeep Rubicon?:oops:

Tekin FXR or another stocker esc, put it in a box this time.
 
Yeap^ love mine and had it for close to year now with no problems. I run a Tekin 45t motor with it on 3s and it moves on!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
axial says the AE-2 Is water resistant, I've seen them work with no issues fully submerged in a few different trucks. save your money for now.

You want to keep your receiver and other electronics free of water, put them in a Axial Wraith receiver box or a ballon kinda like this: Axial Racing - How to Waterproof your SCX10 (this was before they made the ESC waterproof, don't need to ballon that anymore.)

Once you get more experienced as a builder I would suggest that you conformal coat your electronics. basically seal everything except the connectors on ALL the electronics pcb boards.

Check out post #2 when your ready:http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-wraith/456870-jeep-jk-ttc.html
 
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