Having never really been much of a fan of Traxxas (probably due to not ever buying RTR's) the TRX-4 has been off my radar. However, when they released a kit version, my eyes were opened.
So, here's my take on the TRX-4 Sport. I was waiting for the new Sport kit to arrive in the UK, but I got impatient and picked up a Kit with the electrics instead. I sold off the ESC, wheels, tires and body etc. I've added the SSD portal covers and front overdrive to start with, and I've got a Mamba X with 2280kv motor to go in.
I spent some time looking at body options. I want this to be a performer so all the massive top heavy bodies were out. I've got a few RC4WD Mojave cabs that I had thought about adding a cage to, but they just looked a little too small. So, I settled on the Pro-line Ford 1966 Cab. I'll be adding a simple, low rear cage to neaten up the back end.
Here's the start.
The body is the perfect width for the stock sliders, but I had to trim them a little and lift them up 5mm.
It seems to me that Traxxas have really thought about the versatility of the TRX-4. I love the fact that I can use a small lipo up front for performance, or a larger one in the middle for trail running. Thumbs up.
I lengthened the wheel base 6mm and switched the rear shock mounts around. So, I had to cut a little bit out to allow them to clear the middle fixing bolt. I know I could have left the middle bolt out, but I thought as it's there I'd use it.
This allows the rear shocks to lay down a little.
Now, next up was the rear cage. This caused me more headache than any other metal work I ever done. I wanted to attach the rear hoop to the chassis, but as the rails bend in towards the rear axle, the 2 mounting tabs had to be brazed at an angle to make them work. The problem I was having was how to hold them in position while I took it off to braze, without them moving.
I spent 2 evenings coming up with several methods that didn't work. Then, on the 3rd night, I had a brain wave. I decided to cut a piece of 1/4” alloy bar I had to the same profile as the chassis rails and bolt the mounts to that to braze them. This worked out perfect.
Here's the issue I was having.
The 3 pieces of the 3rd attempt.
And here's the solution.
And the finished result. Perfectly square... just how I like it.
I guess it's a lot of effort to go to just to get one part of the cage right, but it was worth it.
I made a start this evening on the next part of the cage, but decided to call it a night. The next piece is bent up, and tomorrow I'll get it brazed into place.
Thanks for taking a look.
So, here's my take on the TRX-4 Sport. I was waiting for the new Sport kit to arrive in the UK, but I got impatient and picked up a Kit with the electrics instead. I sold off the ESC, wheels, tires and body etc. I've added the SSD portal covers and front overdrive to start with, and I've got a Mamba X with 2280kv motor to go in.
I spent some time looking at body options. I want this to be a performer so all the massive top heavy bodies were out. I've got a few RC4WD Mojave cabs that I had thought about adding a cage to, but they just looked a little too small. So, I settled on the Pro-line Ford 1966 Cab. I'll be adding a simple, low rear cage to neaten up the back end.
Here's the start.
The body is the perfect width for the stock sliders, but I had to trim them a little and lift them up 5mm.
It seems to me that Traxxas have really thought about the versatility of the TRX-4. I love the fact that I can use a small lipo up front for performance, or a larger one in the middle for trail running. Thumbs up.
I lengthened the wheel base 6mm and switched the rear shock mounts around. So, I had to cut a little bit out to allow them to clear the middle fixing bolt. I know I could have left the middle bolt out, but I thought as it's there I'd use it.
This allows the rear shocks to lay down a little.
Now, next up was the rear cage. This caused me more headache than any other metal work I ever done. I wanted to attach the rear hoop to the chassis, but as the rails bend in towards the rear axle, the 2 mounting tabs had to be brazed at an angle to make them work. The problem I was having was how to hold them in position while I took it off to braze, without them moving.
I spent 2 evenings coming up with several methods that didn't work. Then, on the 3rd night, I had a brain wave. I decided to cut a piece of 1/4” alloy bar I had to the same profile as the chassis rails and bolt the mounts to that to braze them. This worked out perfect.
Here's the issue I was having.
The 3 pieces of the 3rd attempt.
And here's the solution.
And the finished result. Perfectly square... just how I like it.
I guess it's a lot of effort to go to just to get one part of the cage right, but it was worth it.
I made a start this evening on the next part of the cage, but decided to call it a night. The next piece is bent up, and tomorrow I'll get it brazed into place.
Thanks for taking a look.
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