FinnaHaveAGoodTime
Newbie
Bought myself an Everest 10 a little bit ago on an impulse buy, drove it around and started to change a few things. At first impression, this RC is a more than capable for its options and has more than enough power. Now I really like the crawler scene and I've made a few changes and custom parts for the Everest 10. This thread will show basic changes I recommend, custom parts I've made, upgrades I've attempted, and any other things I've tried. Pay attention, you might see a new frame, upgraded chassis parts, new bodies, and maybe a 6x6?
Lets start off with a quick review of the Redcat Everest 10 in its stock form and its components. It's a 1/10 scale crawler with full time 4WD.
Note* I have watched a few videos on YouTube and read a few other forum posts and there were some minor small differences between my Everest 10 and others. Note that my findings may be different than your's. I purchased mine from a registered Redcat dealer in September of 2016 and it was new-stock (dealer got it in a week before).
I've taken it fully apart (because I drove underwater and in the sand and wanted to thoroughly clean everything) and took a good look at everything.
The electrical side of this crawler is pretty basic. the receiver is a 3 channel Redcat brand 24.GHz paired with a 2 channel Redcat brand pistol grip transmitter. The motor is a 540 size brushed motor with 60 turn windings (from what I can research, the motor doesn't specify on it nor in the manual). It comes with a Hexfly 2000 mAh 7.2v NiMH battery. ESC is a Redcat/Hobbywing 1/10 scale waterproof unit. It has jumper tabs to switch between Lipo or NiMH and also crawler or boat mode. It can accept a 2-3 cell Lipo or 5-9 cell NiMH. When in crawler mode, the ESC locks the motor when no input in received, not allowing the crawler to coast (roll due to gravity or other forces). It has full power in either direction. In boat mode, the crawler has full power in one direction and a limited power in another. It also has the ability to coast. The steering servo is Redcat/Hexfly brand HX-15S. It is a standard sized servo and is rated for 15KG and splash resistant, even though the crawler is marketed as "waterproof".
Axles: The front and rear axles (Housings, internal parts, axle shafts, hubs, knuckles, spindles) are interchangable. The front uses a tie rod from the servo to the driverside for steering, using a drag bar style tie-rod to connect either steering knuckle together. The rear uses individual tie rods from either knuckle to connect to the axle housing, and a drag bar between the knuckles. A quick note: all tie rods on this crawler are normal threaded, meaning they have to be taken apart at one end and spun to be adjusted. The axle shafts themselves are metal, along with the ring and pinion gears. The differentials are locked, meaning that both tires on an axle must spin together; there is no slip from one tire to the next. The axle shafts are held in place with ball bearings. The axles come non-lubricated.
Drivetrain: The transfer case in this crawler is a single unit that the motor bolts onto. All gears inside are plastic and non-lubricated. An output shaft is located on the front and rear of the unit. The driveshafts are plastic with metal yoked u-joints on either end. The driveshafts are the inner slipping kind, where one end slides over the other.
Suspension: Front and rear 4 link suspension. The upper links are the same on either side, bent inward to avoid contact with the shocks during articulation. The rear lower 4 link arms are straight, while the fronts are bent slightly to clear the front tires while turning. All 4 link arms are aluminum with plastic ball-and-socket inserts. Shocks are aluminum capped plastic oil filled coil-overs. 121mm length.
Chassis: The sides of the chassis are stamped aluminum while the lower frame and upper frame are plastic. The lower frame houses the motor/transfer case while the upper holds the battery, receiver, and ESC.
Misc: The body is a flexible plastic, held on by two body pegs on either side of the side chassis. Tires are a soft rubber, semi-aggressive tread with 3 piece beadlocks. Inside is a red open celled foam. Hubs are standard Redcat plastic .475" (12mm) hex with centerbolt.
**will update with pictures soon
Lets start off with a quick review of the Redcat Everest 10 in its stock form and its components. It's a 1/10 scale crawler with full time 4WD.
Note* I have watched a few videos on YouTube and read a few other forum posts and there were some minor small differences between my Everest 10 and others. Note that my findings may be different than your's. I purchased mine from a registered Redcat dealer in September of 2016 and it was new-stock (dealer got it in a week before).
I've taken it fully apart (because I drove underwater and in the sand and wanted to thoroughly clean everything) and took a good look at everything.
The electrical side of this crawler is pretty basic. the receiver is a 3 channel Redcat brand 24.GHz paired with a 2 channel Redcat brand pistol grip transmitter. The motor is a 540 size brushed motor with 60 turn windings (from what I can research, the motor doesn't specify on it nor in the manual). It comes with a Hexfly 2000 mAh 7.2v NiMH battery. ESC is a Redcat/Hobbywing 1/10 scale waterproof unit. It has jumper tabs to switch between Lipo or NiMH and also crawler or boat mode. It can accept a 2-3 cell Lipo or 5-9 cell NiMH. When in crawler mode, the ESC locks the motor when no input in received, not allowing the crawler to coast (roll due to gravity or other forces). It has full power in either direction. In boat mode, the crawler has full power in one direction and a limited power in another. It also has the ability to coast. The steering servo is Redcat/Hexfly brand HX-15S. It is a standard sized servo and is rated for 15KG and splash resistant, even though the crawler is marketed as "waterproof".
Axles: The front and rear axles (Housings, internal parts, axle shafts, hubs, knuckles, spindles) are interchangable. The front uses a tie rod from the servo to the driverside for steering, using a drag bar style tie-rod to connect either steering knuckle together. The rear uses individual tie rods from either knuckle to connect to the axle housing, and a drag bar between the knuckles. A quick note: all tie rods on this crawler are normal threaded, meaning they have to be taken apart at one end and spun to be adjusted. The axle shafts themselves are metal, along with the ring and pinion gears. The differentials are locked, meaning that both tires on an axle must spin together; there is no slip from one tire to the next. The axle shafts are held in place with ball bearings. The axles come non-lubricated.
Drivetrain: The transfer case in this crawler is a single unit that the motor bolts onto. All gears inside are plastic and non-lubricated. An output shaft is located on the front and rear of the unit. The driveshafts are plastic with metal yoked u-joints on either end. The driveshafts are the inner slipping kind, where one end slides over the other.
Suspension: Front and rear 4 link suspension. The upper links are the same on either side, bent inward to avoid contact with the shocks during articulation. The rear lower 4 link arms are straight, while the fronts are bent slightly to clear the front tires while turning. All 4 link arms are aluminum with plastic ball-and-socket inserts. Shocks are aluminum capped plastic oil filled coil-overs. 121mm length.
Chassis: The sides of the chassis are stamped aluminum while the lower frame and upper frame are plastic. The lower frame houses the motor/transfer case while the upper holds the battery, receiver, and ESC.
Misc: The body is a flexible plastic, held on by two body pegs on either side of the side chassis. Tires are a soft rubber, semi-aggressive tread with 3 piece beadlocks. Inside is a red open celled foam. Hubs are standard Redcat plastic .475" (12mm) hex with centerbolt.
**will update with pictures soon
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