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Mamba Max Pro with HH 2700kv Waterproof Motor Issue

malickie

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
396
Location
FL
So I have a MMP and a HH Puller Pro 2700kv Waterproof Motor in my SCX10-II, the issue I am having is after about a constant 10-20 minute run time outside (30 degrees outside) it starts to act very odd. It will start completely cutting out, all the sudden it will just dead stop, I wait a second or two full throttle and it will move again a few inches and cut out again, if I let it sit for about 10-20 seconds I can get it moving again but if I have it full throttle after that it takes about 10-20 seconds and it will cut out again also if I decide I want to go up and over something at that point it will stall out again and either roll back or forward even though I have Drag Brake set to Crawler mode in the MMP.

Is it possible the MMP just doesn't like the Puller Pro? I mean I have an HH BLE PRO running in my TF2 that seems to be doing just fine but that is only running a cheapo RC4WD 45t Motor, also on that same note the MMP seemed to work fine when I was running a 35t Axial Motor. Just more or less wondering if I should just swap the ESC's around if that could be the issue, or might it actually be the Sensor Wire, or the Sensor in the Motor itself?

Any help would be much appreciated, I tend to wheel my SCX10-II more around outside more than my TF2 at the moment because I am still trying to dial my TF2 to the way I want it to be so I am not 100% certain how that would behave after 10-20 minutes, but may wind up getting rid of everything except my SCX10-II and than hunting around here for a nice Comp Crawler and a nicely built up Bomber or something lol. Gotta sell my TF2, Gmade Komodo and SCX10 first though, trying to trade them off for what I am looking for is unfortunately not working at all lol.

At any rate any help with this electrical issue would be much appreciated.
 
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Battery. Got more than one?


Got a bunch, 2 Traxxas 3s Lipo's 25c 5000mah, 2 Traxxas 2s Lipo's 25c 7400mah. The one I was using was a Kinexsis 35c 5000mah 2s Lipo, the issue has also appeared when I was using a Venom 50c 3s 5000mah lipo
 
did you change the setup via castle link? and changed from brushed to brushless. just to be sure.
Do you have an heat gun and measured the temp from esc and motor?
 
did you change the setup via castle link? and changed from brushed to brushless. just to be sure.
Do you have an heat gun and measured the temp from esc and motor?


Hmm, I'll have to double check the settings, unfortunately I don't have a temp gun, but with the temp. outside I would be surprised if it got very warm though I suppose it is possible.
 
I run an mmp with a hh 4500kv without a hitch.
Are you running a bec? Does sound like the sort of thing that happens when you don't.
 
I run an mmp with a hh 4500kv without a hitch.
Are you running a bec? Does sound like the sort of thing that happens when you don't.

Yeah, running a Castle BEC set to 7.4 for my Hitec 7950th Servo. If it matters I am using a Futaba 4pv with a 4 channel Micro rx.

Now that I think about it, should I try running the BEC and servo direct to the rx by undoing the red cable to the ESC instead of using the HH RX Bypass?

Also forgot to mention that I am running a Pro-Line 5" Curved Super-Bright LED Light Bar (6v-12v) on the rx. Not sure if that could cause some sort of over loading or not, not even sure it is really relevant just thought I ought to mention it. Not running anything extra other than the light bar at the moment.
 
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Double Checked settings on the MMP, was set to sensored brushless, going to try it with the smart sense just for giggles to see if that will help at all although I have a feeling that will completely screw with my low end crawling ability and will most likely wind up switching it back to sensored. I changed a few other settings while I was in there to see if anything helps. Either way still kind of clueless.
 
Learn something new everyday lol, had no clue I shoulda been using smart sense, but good to know.
 
Try running the light off the balance plug, less load on the rx and light will be brighter.

How would I do that if you don't mind my asking. The light bar I have has a plug for the rx hence the question.

Also took it out wheeling a bit today and things seem to be working much better, minus needing to dial in my suspension, can't side hill to save my life at the moment, almost instant tip over lol.
 
If you are running a light bar off the MMp internal BEC, you may be overheating that part of the ESC. That BEC isn't the best and has issues dropping out when overloaded.

If you have a HH bypass you can use it to remove the red wire from the ESC. Plug the BEC and servo directly into the receiver, then plug the ESC into the plug on the HH bypass that has the yellow wire and the other end of the yellow wire into channel 2 on the receiver.

I wish the bypass cable ran the red wire from one plug to the receiver so you could power all electronics off an external BEC and disconnect the ESC without taking up an extra slot on the receiver. This also makes it easier to castle link because you can hang that plug out of a receiver box to make it easier to unplug.
Like this bad MSPaint I made is: http://i.imgur.com/xm5o55j.jpg
 
If you are running a light bar off the MMp internal BEC, you may be overheating that part of the ESC. That BEC isn't the best and has issues dropping out when overloaded.

If you have a HH bypass you can use it to remove the red wire from the ESC. Plug the BEC and servo directly into the receiver, then plug the ESC into the plug on the HH bypass that has the yellow wire and the other end of the yellow wire into channel 2 on the receiver.

I wish the bypass cable ran the red wire from one plug to the receiver so you could power all electronics off an external BEC and disconnect the ESC without taking up an extra slot on the receiver. This also makes it easier to castle link because you can hang that plug out of a receiver box to make it easier to unplug.
Like this bad MSPaint I made is: http://i.imgur.com/xm5o55j.jpg

Yea, I am running the Light Bar off the MMP at 7v and the light bar has the ability to use from 6v to 12v

So, something like RX Bypass Adapter With Auxiliary Output - Wiring & Wiring Accessories - Electronics & Wiring
 
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