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Locking front diffs only?

BHChieftain

Newbie
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Messages
13
Location
San Jose
Hi,
Is there any practical scenario to locking only the front diff vs both?

One reason I’m asking is I may want to use a Futaba 4 channel radio and I think I could dump a channel by slaving the diff servos so they both are activated by 1 channel (with 1 reversed).

Other reason is I’m just curious...

Chief
 
Hi,
Is there any practical scenario to locking only the front diff vs both?

One reason I’m asking is I may want to use a Futaba 4 channel radio and I think I could dump a channel by slaving the diff servos so they both are activated by 1 channel (with 1 reversed).

Other reason is I’m just curious...

Chief
That is how I'm running mine, works good for me!"thumbsup"
Ernie
 
Only reason I see locking the front or rear diff solo is for a swinging motion when dealing with serious angles. Mostly during competitions to occur less points in my opinion. Other than that run them locked or unlocked.

Sent from my Z982 using Tapatalk
 
I kinda scoffed at it too, but found it pretty useful. Works kinda like a dig in certain situations. I had planned to swap around the diff locking between front and rear, but after a few drives I left it alone.
 
The stock setup works great. You lock the front and don’t have the rear trying to push the truck in the wrong direction so much. My standard approach to any obstacle is unlocked....if it’s tough lock the front...then rear if needed. Much more of a enjoyable challenge. :-)
 
I normally run around unlocked and then lock when needed. I'll usually try the obstacle with front only locked then lock the rear if front only doesnt do the job, which is what happens most of the time. I will likely be buying a DX5R soon. When I do, I'll probably end up putting both lock servos on one channel so I still have a free channel for a winch.

I wonder if any vendor (or Traxxas) will end up making a conversion kit so we could use only one servo for this vs a Y and servo reverser. Realistically it would only require a longer cable for the front or rear diff and a double servo horn. We could just use one of the stock lock servo locations and remove the extra servo.
 
You know a simple way to test your proposed set up would be to disconnect the front cable from the servo and then unscrew the end cap and slip an ink pen spring over the end of the cable then reinstall the cable end. This would lock the diff and allow you to see if you like it before spending any money on a spool.
 
I also think it acts like a dig somewhat.

Locking the rear only would be pretty much useless IMO. When climbing, only having the rear locked would make the truck to want to tip over backwards. RWD might be fine on a flatter surface, but in other situations it just wouldn't work well. I like it they way they have it. I'm sure they did a ton of testing with just a locked rear as well.

Think about a 1:1 vehicle. RWD is the worst for slipper conditions. FWD is second and AWD/4WD is the best.
 
I also think it acts like a dig somewhat.

Locking the rear only would be pretty much useless IMO. When climbing, only having the rear locked would make the truck to want to tip over backwards. RWD might be fine on a flatter surface, but in other situations it just wouldn't work well. I like it they way they have it. I'm sure they did a ton of testing with just a locked rear as well.

Think about a 1:1 vehicle. RWD is the worst for slipper conditions. FWD is second and AWD/4WD is the best.


There were tons of times where I would run my 1:1 with the rear locked and the front open. In fact more often then not I would run that way. The there was times I would lock the front and open the back.

Im sure that it translate to scale if at all.
 
There were tons of times where I would run my 1:1 with the rear locked and the front open. In fact more often then not I would run that way. The there was times I would lock the front and open the back.

Im sure that it translate to scale if at all.
When crawling or straight trailing?
 
Any time you are climbing upward a front locked diff will be better than a rear locked diff. This lets the rears not catch and prevents them causing the truck to flip over.
 
This is a topic I'm interested in, because I recently bought a pre-roller TRX-4 Bronco chassis off eBay, with no electronics, and also purchased two steel lockers from Super Shafty, because I was intending to reduce complication, and just run the 2-speed transmission(which is what I wanted the most, anyway), but from all the reading I've done, most owners seem to enjoy the remote lockable diff feature. As I started to think back on many of the hiking trails I've taken my rigs on, with the intention of eventually returning to them with the TRX-4, I recall that many of those trails have switchbacks, with hairpin turns, and my understanding, now, is that being able to open the diffs would allow more efficient handling around those turns, and perhaps allow me to avoid stopping and reversing, especially when going back down the trail. Sounds like it'd be a good idea to at least leave the rear locked, in my case, but even a 3-mile downhill trail would be better navigated if both diffs were unlocked. Plenty to think about, before I get to working on the chassis build up.

Just for reference (vid starts at 12:35):
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y0HAMkolhYM?start=755" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I just recently put in HeyOk's new wireless winch and diff locker controller (with EPA adjustments) I feel like its the best option for those who just want more control over which end gets locked.
You get a separate remote with individual controls for the winch (in and out) and for the front and rear diffs. No more worries about order, you're in full control.

Its fairly new so I believe at the moment you need to contact HeyOk about getting one (its not in the online HeyOk store atm)

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/trax...nch-diff-locker-controller-2.html#post5798872
 
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