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Lexan body wheelbase vs chassis wheelbase

tporter

Newbie
Joined
Mar 19, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Recife, Brazil
Hello all :). I am new to this forum as well as to rc in general. I have not found this question answered here or after doing a search on google. Please forgive me if I should have looked somewhere else.

I am interested in a lexan body (ProLine 1991 4Runner -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeVlE9BT9wM) that says it has a wheelbase of 315 mm. The ProLine website also says it fits an Axial SCX10 (313 mm) wheelbase chassis.

That is a 2 mm difference… does that matter? I am considering getting a TRX4 Bronco or Sport with a wheelbase of 312 mm. Can I still use this body?

I have seen videos of this body (I think) on the SCX10 ii as well as on the TRX4 swb and both of them looked like the body fit perfectly.

How many millimeters can the body/chassis be out of synch before it is really noticeable and looks bad?

Thanks :)

Tim
 
Its not something that you should worry about really, a chassis can be easily adjusted and gaining 2mm will be a free mod.

Its pretty quick and easy, start by taking the links off, take a measurement of the links from eye to eye or really whatever reference point that you find works. Unscrew each of the rod ends (the plastic ends) a few turns until you've got the measurement you wanted. If you want to stretch or shrink the wheelbase even more there are aftermarket links available from a ton of places. Another option that's cheaper than replacing links is to get shorter or longer rod ends to change the length.

And if the wheelbase is a few mm off you should be able to get it to look normal.

Almost any body can be put on any crawler within reason. Its just a matter of rounding up the right length body post or making your own body mounts. Just keep the body clear (dont paint it yet) so you can see how things line up and so you can mark the body post holes. One exception to this would be if the body was a stock replacement, these will almost always have a dimple on the outside where the body post holes go.
 
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^^X2 on what they said. Sometimes even the stock setups look better with a small adjustment (like on the Redcat Gen8 or RC4WD Gelande 2 Cruiser). So I keep an assortment of M3 and M4 spacers, as well as various rod ends, handy to make minor wheelbase adjustments.
 
Thanks you for responding. I'm not sure what M3 and M4 spacers are (I'm assuming just small washers to add length) but I think I understand now how to adjust the wheel bases now.
 
Hmmmm... I thought I was replying individually to each of your messages so I didn't put your names in my messages. Sorry about that!
 
Hmmmm... I thought I was replying individually to each of your messages so I didn't put your names in my messages. Sorry about that!

If you want to quote a message look in the lower right hand corner of the post for the quote button.

M3 and M4 spacers are essentially thicker washer or spacers as you guessed. M3 and M4 refers to the size of the inner diameter, the most common link sizes are M3 and M4 threads.
 
I wouldn't even bother modifying links for 2mm. You're going to be off, on center, 1mm front and 1mm rear. It won't be discernible. You can also trim a smidge of the lexan to accommodate. If the discrepancy were larger, then adding length or changing to longer links would be the way to go.
 
I didn't feel the need to modify the links on my SCX10 ii when I mounted my Proline 4Runner. I run 1.9 Proline Hyrax and could maybe stand to trim less than 1 mm off the front wheel well.

29eTf7u.jpg
 
I didn't feel the need to modify the links on my SCX10 ii when I mounted my Proline 4Runner. I run 1.9 Proline Hyrax and could maybe stand to trim less than 1 mm off the front wheel well.

29eTf7u.jpg

Sorry for reviving an old post...but what bumper are you running in that photo?
 
Most m3 or m4 nuts are about 2mil also. If you don't have the actual spacers. Plus they look like 1:1 jam nuts so sorta scale as well.
 
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