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RichieTsai
Newbie
Awesome vid man!
twisted concept
Quarry Creeper
awesome looking rig! What foams are you running?
I'm using Crawler Innovations Lil' Nova's. I contacted Eddy through a PM and he recommended foams based on what I wanted to do with the truck, how much it weighs and what tires and wheels I'm running. For my rock crawling 8.75lb truck running KLR silver compound he recommended 4.5 with med outer foam for the front and 4.5 with firm outer for the rear.
Awesome! You're truck is incredibly balanced. Have a body-off photo?
Bananaclip
I wanna be Dave
Any wheel weights? What gears are in the axles? That thing sticks "thumbsup"
The Bug
Pebble Pounder
What is your shock setup? Spring weight - shock oil etc
tacocat
Quarry Creeper
WOW that was awesome! Very impressive
Itali83
RCC Addict
Awesome video. Amazing lines and your truck seems like it plain can't tip over. Nicely done!
Ben
Ben
I want to start replying to these questions by saying I'm very grateful for all the info. others have taken time to post in this forum. I have never needed to post any questions because every bit of info. I've ever needed is here.
I added a wrap of thin soldering wire around the front wheels to add some weight. I'm not sure how much it weighs. The gearing is underdrive rear/overdrive front
The shocks are 93mm Gmade XD with the soft springs. I used the middle of the road option for the pistons. I use 500cps oil. I ended up taking the tuning screw out of the reservoirs. The springs seemed stiff and I wasn't too happy with them at first but they have broken in well. I'm testing the top location of the rear shocks now. Currently they are as far forward as Gear Head droop keys will move them.
Thank you guys.
I added a wrap of thin soldering wire around the front wheels to add some weight. I'm not sure how much it weighs. The gearing is underdrive rear/overdrive front
The shocks are 93mm Gmade XD with the soft springs. I used the middle of the road option for the pistons. I use 500cps oil. I ended up taking the tuning screw out of the reservoirs. The springs seemed stiff and I wasn't too happy with them at first but they have broken in well. I'm testing the top location of the rear shocks now. Currently they are as far forward as Gear Head droop keys will move them.
Thank you guys.
Here are some shots with the body removed. My preview doesn't show the image in the thread, but HoverZoom works, so I hope I did this right. "thumbsup"
The fuel cell holds the FX-R. I made the electronics box that sits on the Jenvne Recon Brick Plate.
Here you can see how I relocated the upper links at the skid. The plates are designed to hold the body posts for the Hilux shell and act as risers for the upper links. I basically located the links so the one on the drive side cleared the MIP drive shaft. I lucked out because by slightly adjusting my link length with the rod ends I got everything dialed in. I didn't want to add too much anti squat so I only went up about 10mm.
I used the Gear Head delrin SCX10 droop keys to relocate the upper position of the rear shocks. They are a bit flexible but are standing up the my abuse well.
These are the details I feel are the most important concerning tech. Other things to note are that I'm running a Tekin 45T HD motor on 3s with 80/17 gearing. The knuckles and c-hubs are Vanquish, and to get around the issue some people were having with the inside of their tires rubbing on the steering link rod ends I got Gear Head EZ-Loc wheels with +.375 hubs. +.275 may work, but I went with the wider stance because I like the mean wide look, not to mention it would help with roll overs. I was concerned about the weight of the CCHand interior being an issue because it would add a bunch of weight up high, but it ended up not being a big deal. In terms of articulation I just aim for being able to flex the same as the height of my tires. That way I don't get hung up on big rocks with an over hang that would pin a tire if it was on the ground.
The fuel cell holds the FX-R. I made the electronics box that sits on the Jenvne Recon Brick Plate.
Here you can see how I relocated the upper links at the skid. The plates are designed to hold the body posts for the Hilux shell and act as risers for the upper links. I basically located the links so the one on the drive side cleared the MIP drive shaft. I lucked out because by slightly adjusting my link length with the rod ends I got everything dialed in. I didn't want to add too much anti squat so I only went up about 10mm.
I used the Gear Head delrin SCX10 droop keys to relocate the upper position of the rear shocks. They are a bit flexible but are standing up the my abuse well.
These are the details I feel are the most important concerning tech. Other things to note are that I'm running a Tekin 45T HD motor on 3s with 80/17 gearing. The knuckles and c-hubs are Vanquish, and to get around the issue some people were having with the inside of their tires rubbing on the steering link rod ends I got Gear Head EZ-Loc wheels with +.375 hubs. +.275 may work, but I went with the wider stance because I like the mean wide look, not to mention it would help with roll overs. I was concerned about the weight of the CCHand interior being an issue because it would add a bunch of weight up high, but it ended up not being a big deal. In terms of articulation I just aim for being able to flex the same as the height of my tires. That way I don't get hung up on big rocks with an over hang that would pin a tire if it was on the ground.
stelerzman
I wanna be Dave
Here are some shots with the body removed. My preview doesn't show the image in the thread, but HoverZoom works, so I hope I did this right. "thumbsup"
The fuel cell holds the FX-R. I made the electronics box that sits on the Jenvne Recon Brick Plate.
Here you can see how I relocated the upper links at the skid. The plates are designed to hold the body posts for the Hilux shell and act as risers for the upper links. I basically located the links so the one on the drive side cleared the MIP drive shaft. I lucked out because by slightly adjusting my link length with the rod ends I got everything dialed in. I didn't want to add too much anti squat so I only went up about 10mm.
I used the Gear Head delrin SCX10 droop keys to relocate the upper position of the rear shocks. They are a bit flexible but are standing up the my abuse well.
These are the details I feel are the most important concerning tech. Other things to note are that I'm running a Tekin 45T HD motor on 3s with 80/17 gearing. The knuckles and c-hubs are Vanquish, and to get around the issue some people were having with the inside of their tires rubbing on the steering link rod ends I got Gear Head EZ-Loc wheels with +.375 hubs. +.275 may work, but I went with the wider stance because I like the mean wide look, not to mention it would help with roll overs. I was concerned about the weight of the CCHand interior being an issue because it would add a bunch of weight up high, but it ended up not being a big deal. In terms of articulation I just aim for being able to flex the same as the height of my tires. That way I don't get hung up on big rocks with an over hang that would pin a tire if it was on the ground.
Great video and location. Also thanks for the tech info.
My question is, how much did you raise the upper links?? Rear mostly, and front if you did so.
"thumbsup"
10mm, as noted in the post. Fronts are in the stock location, but it does suffer from torque twist when reversing. The skid is from The Scale Shop so it raises the rear location of the front lower links about 4mm. When viewed from the side, the links intersect at the skid, way too much squat but I never reverse up hills so I left it as is.
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