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JustinL SMT10 Build

JustinL7294

Newbie
Joined
Mar 10, 2019
Messages
24
Location
Roseville
Going to start a build thread. I purchased this back when the re-release first started and left it pretty stock for awhile.

So far I have..

Jconcepts tribute wheels
Jconcepts firestorm tires
Jconcepts Raptor body
SSD Steering Linkage
Axial front sway bar (stolen from my rr10)
Castle sidewinder 8th esc
Hobbywing xerun 550 3600kv

Took apart the stock shocks and switched pistons, green slimed the o-rings, and filled back up with 30wt. These things leak like crazy.


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Did you replace the o-rings or reuse them? Your post made it sound like you reused them and I can assure you, they’re still going to leak like crazy Until you spend the 0.75 cents and replace the o-rings
 
Did you replace the o-rings or reuse them? Your post made it sound like you reused them and I can assure you, they’re still going to leak like crazy Until you spend the 0.75 cents and replace the o-rings


Yea just reused the old the ones it came with. I’ll put new ones on the list for my next order. They just axial replacements or are there others that work better?


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Hi,

I am about to order the SMT10 Raw Builders Kid, as my first kid build.
So I will keep an eye on this post, because I really don't know what parts are needed to make this build fun and strong enough for these huge Jconcepts firestorm tires.

Can you post I pictures of the SSD Steering Linkage? What do you think about the Vanquish set https://www.vanquishproducts.com/incision-wraith-1-4-stainless-steel-drag-link-and-tie-rod-kit/http://

Why did you take a Castle sidewinder ESC and not a Hobbywing combo?

Thanx for your help.
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Great looking truck.

The Axial shocks are going to leak no matter what. They're garbage.
 
As already mentioned, plan to buy better shocks. The Proline Powerstroke XL are expensive, but they work great and do not leak. Only catch are the springs included with them are too stiff. Get a set of the Proline TrueSpec short course rear springs.

I tried to keep running the stock shocks. Rebuilt them with green slime and i bought the entire assortment of springs for them. The pistons stopped leaking but i eventually blew the top diaphragm / cap out. I gave up on them after that lol.
 
I prefer the Vanquish steering links. They use a pretty beefy thread on the end and its all one piece. Personally i do not like the set screws on the SSD links. The Vanquish upper links are good also, same beefy thread. Downsize is they are heavy (more on that below).

Get a set of the Vanquish clamping rear lock outs. SSD front knuckles are good and use a larger outter bearing. If you can find a set, the Vanquish clamping front c-hubs are really good but i think they may be discontinued. The SSD trailing arms are good also. I cant remember the specifics, but you need to get a longer set screw for the trailing arms. The ones provided are too short and will cause broken rod ends.

The Axial universal CVD's are a great upgrade also and hold up fine even on 3S.

After over a year of use, Ive found the weakest point of these rigs are the rear axle shafts. This is compounded as you add the Clod size wheels / tires and add weight. Beef tubes for the axle housings will work, but if you jump a lot, they will still inevitably break. XtraSpeed has some good housings that are inexpensive, but they are quite heavy. Vanquish and Supershafty make some nice aluminum housings, but that's when things start getting $$.

Shim your pinion / ring rear! I had over a year on the cheap gear set Axial provides on 2S and 3S with no issues. I replaced them with the hardened gear set from Axial only because the teeth wore out on the gear set! No breaks or slipping gears ever.

Another complaint is the front inner knuckle bearing is quite small. I broke a few of these until i use shims to tighten up the CVD / knuckle fit.

My truck was pretty heavy... over 9lbs with no battery. I've since gotten it down to a little under 8.5lbs. I am using axle shafts from LockedUp and they are holding up.

Despite the amount of money i have into mine and the fact you need to 'drive it scale'; the SMT10 is my favorite of all the rigs i have.
 
Yea just reused the old the ones it came with. I’ll put new ones on the list for my next order. They just axial replacements or are there others that work better?


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Coming from close to 30 years of racing...never reuse o-rings....ever. But that’s racing.

Personally I do not and most all shocks use stand size o-rings. I haven’t built the axial shocks but personally on every other brand I’ve built I use x-rings from Associated.


For these trucks if you’re looking to upgrade the shock package I’d go with proline. They’re expensive but like I told someone on a Facebook page with a cheap electronics package that didn’t work “you get what you pay for” Proline shock are probably your best bet...again not cheapest and I’m sure someone will disagree but the mass populations will agree they’re the best
 
Coming from close to 30 years of racing...never reuse o-rings....ever. But that’s racing.

Personally I do not and most all shocks use stand size o-rings. I haven’t built the axial shocks but personally on every other brand I’ve built I use x-rings from Associated.


For these trucks if you’re looking to upgrade the shock package I’d go with proline. They’re expensive but like I told someone on a Facebook page with a cheap electronics package that didn’t work “you get what you pay for” Proline shock are probably your best bet...again not cheapest and I’m sure someone will disagree but the mass populations will agree they’re the best


I did have some 1/8 buggy rear shocks mounted up since I had an absurd amount laying around but the softest springs I had were way too stiff. I liked the tune ability with pistons that the 8th scale market has. Also tried some losi 22sct shocks but only had one pair.


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Last week ended up twisting and break the rear driveshaft while bashing around. Did put a smile on my face knowing it has the power to do it now and glad it’s that little piece the broke. But while it was down I decided to paint the wheels black. Like the grey and green but all black just looks meaner.
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Last week ended up twisting and break the rear driveshaft while bashing around. Did put a smile on my face knowing it has the power to do it now and glad it’s that little piece the broke. But while it was down I decided to paint the wheels black. Like the grey and green but all black just looks meaner.


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It does look better, and meaner with the black wheels. Did you take the tires off to paint, or just paint strategically with the tires on? How did you do it? I'm thinking about painting my gray wheels black as well

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I did the same with my driveshafts. On scaler crawlers those things are tanks. On MT's - not so much. Upgrade to Traxxas driveshafts.
 
It does look better, and meaner with the black wheels. Did you take the tires off to paint, or just paint strategically with the tires on? How did you do it? I'm thinking about painting my gray wheels black as well

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Taped around the tire. Tried taking the tire off but it was easier just to tape off.


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Did a few more things to the truck. Since I have a bomber kit that gets driven lightly I decided to switch the hd gears and front universal axles.

My wife also got me a 3D printer for a gift and designed and printed a rear axle brace since I wanted to move the shocks to axle mounted since I also got some 14” wb CPE links. It can also have the stock body mounts attached if needed. This was the first time designing anything in CAD so there could be some tweaks still.
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Decided to modify the stock sway bars. Designed and printed some sway bar relocation brackets. Also finally got some CPE lower and upper links and stainless axle stiffeners.
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