• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Just finished the Enduro Builders Kit???

MAGNUMB

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Dec 11, 2016
Messages
491
Location
DA U.P.
It was quick build and good instructions.

Plastic quality is decent and well molded.

Transmission was the most impressive piece, just wish they offered it with a slipper. It sits maybe 5mm higher in the chassis than the SCA-1E transmission which has a similar format. Added Hudy Graphite grease and runs almost silent the axles however do not...might just need some more shimming

Battery placement did not seem optimal....like the battery to run down the middle and over the front axle like the SCA-1E or SCX10.2

The axles were some the easiest i've built, but pinion is super small but helical which is a nice touch. Whoever designed the receiver box i'm guessing is the same person who design these horrible axles. The shape is not conducive for sliding over rocks and they are square???...If it's not going to be designed for performance at least make it look good! SCA-1E axles look terrible, but probably the best design for sliding over rocks and you're able to drain any moisture or re-grease in less than a min. Go for one or the other at least.

Side plates are way too big and heavy along with the huge and ugly receiver box, they really overlooked this whole area and looks like about a 15min CAD effort. Going to swap with a Traxxas box and maybe eliminate the side plates completely.

The links are too big and too heavy.....never had a link bend on me that was half the size....plus it just looks odd. Cut the size down a mm and change both links and shafts to black.

Chassis rails do not allow for truck bodies to be slammed....unable to get a Brat body to sit as low as on the Carisma chassis. The rails have some severe angles and sits over an inch higher. Odd rail design, but the chassis has decent rigidity.

The drive shafts look like they'll hold up well and lightweight, but again very bulky and can see them being hard to keep clean.

Front drive axles are not CVDs like the cheaper SCA-1E. They'll be fine, but prefer CVDs overall as they don't grab onto mud as easily and easier to lube.

Shocks are great! just wish they skipped the all that blue anodizing. Prefer the RTR color scheme. And where are the upper shock mounting options

Was expecting a lot more from Associated and might grab another one of those incredible transmissions and move it over to the SCA-1E platform and compare the 2. So far this falls towards the end of line as far crawler platforms go for me....the overdrive transmission is probably why this is so highly rated, but the rest of just average at best and a very well designed. Should also be priced towards $179-199 to make it somewhat competitive
 
Last edited:
What body are you putting on it?

I am contemplating grabbing one and retiring my RTR to my daughter but she doesn't like the hacked up Trail Walker body currently on it. Wants a Jeep, the only one I saw that looks halfway decent is the JP1 but not sure I want to come off the $80 lol
 
Painting up another Subaru Brat body to keep the CG low and like the look, but that JP1 is a real sweet looking shell and not a fan of Land Rovers but their new DC1 shell looks good
 
Last edited:
Painting up another Subaru Brat body to keep the CG low and like the look, but that JP1 is a real sweet looking shell and not a fan of Land Rovers but their new DC1 shell looks good


Is that Brat a Carisma body? EDIT: I'm assuming so since you mentioned the SCA 1E. I like that look. The Carisma Range Rover was one of the first RC trucks that I wanted when I realized this was an actual hobby but I've never pulled the trigger because I got distracted by other things.


Yeah I like the LR body but it is a hair on the small side, looks good with 1.55s though.
 
Last edited:
Battery placement did not seem optimal....like the battery to run down the middle and over the front axle like the SCA-1E

Samix makes a lengthwise battery tray mod for the Element chassis, in aluminum or (shudder) brass...

They have it over at AMain:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/samix-enduro-forward-adjustable-battery-tray-kit-black-samend-6035-bk/p1142370

samend-6035-bk_2.jpg
 
Is that Brat a Carisma body? EDIT: I'm assuming so since you mentioned the SCA 1E. I like that look. The Carisma Range Rover was one of the first RC trucks that I wanted when I realized this was an actual hobby but I've never pulled the trigger because I got distracted by other things.


Yeah I like the LR body but it is a hair on the small side, looks good with 1.55s though.

It is the Carisma Brat one and can buy direct from Carisma's online shop....could not find them anywhere else. $40

The only negatives i've found with the SCA-1E is the lack of local part support, but i've only broken a steering knuckle after falling off a tree that was going over a river and ended up buying the replacement part on ebay. The price at $270 for the Brat is hard to beat for what you get in quality driveline components. The steering servo has also been very good for a RTR.
 
It is the Carisma Brat one and can buy direct from Carisma's online shop....could not find them anywhere else. $40

The only negatives i've found with the SCA-1E is the lack of local part support, but i've only broken a steering knuckle after falling off a tree that was going over a river and ended up buying the replacement part on ebay. The price at $270 for the Brat is hard to beat for what you get in quality driveline components. The steering servo has also been very good for a RTR.


Sounds like they are pretty durable. I am absolutely convinced at this point that around 90% of the upgrades done to these little trucks are just to chat about it lol. They are so light...I've been trying to break my Enduro and have not been succesful yet. I whip it like a dead horse...no luck. Just some scratches :) And that's the RTR version without the super duper hard plastic mod. I'm still trying to figure out what an "aluminum body brace" does besides cost money :)
 
Thanks for offering some information regarding the Brat body. I have considered using it for my next build, but thanks to your information I'll have to reconsider. The fact that it may not sit low enough gives me some cause for concern.

I used to have a Coyote SCA-1E, but became frustrated with the lack of steering compared to other vehicles I had at the time. I'm a big fan of the Element series of vehicles, so I know how they compare to the SCA-1E.
 
Thanks for offering some information regarding the Brat body. I have considered using it for my next build, but thanks to your information I'll have to reconsider. The fact that it may not sit low enough gives me some cause for concern.

I used to have a Coyote SCA-1E, but became frustrated with the lack of steering compared to other vehicles I had at the time. I'm a big fan of the Element series of vehicles, so I know how they compare to the SCA-1E.

Yeah i'm going to have to cut part of the bed out to get it to sit where i need it:(

The steering is lacking and i was able to get several more degrees by chopping off the stop blocks and when i put the Element overdrive trans in it it should also improve the steering quit a bit. I don't get into too many situations where i need a super tight turning radius though.
I think with a few tweaks the Element platform will be very nice and if they lower the price it will be become competitive. Really liking the trans!!
 
Last edited:
Sounds like they are pretty durable. I am absolutely convinced at this point that around 90% of the upgrades done to these little trucks are just to chat about it lol. They are so light...I've been trying to break my Enduro and have not been succesful yet. I whip it like a dead horse...no luck. Just some scratches :) And that's the RTR version without the super duper hard plastic mod. I'm still trying to figure out what an "aluminum body brace" does besides cost money :)

For sure and yeah that softer plastic as actually more durable in the long run....just sucks the life out of the steering
 
Last edited:
Sounds like they are pretty durable. I am absolutely convinced at this point that around 90% of the upgrades done to these little trucks are just to chat about it lol. They are so light...I've been trying to break my Enduro and have not been succesful yet. I whip it like a dead horse...no luck. Just some scratches :) And that's the RTR version without the super duper hard plastic mod. I'm still trying to figure out what an "aluminum body brace" does besides cost money :)

I agree and try stay away from most aluminum components if possible. They bent instead break or flex a lot of the time and cost way too much. I will spend the money on aluminum shocks though as the plastic ones seems to have deformities and leak more often
 
I built an Enduro a while back for a class 1 and didn't like, torque twist and clearance issues. I set it aside for a while and then decided to put some one piece ar44s under it and now it rocks.

I but the Enduro axles under a Brazin Chassis with a TGH 2low. I rotated the rear pinion up and played with the preload. Still has issues climbing. I just got some ar44s and will replace the Enduro axles.

In the original post the odd angles in the frame rail are mentioned. I think it makes it a very good chassis, esp for an RTR. I changed to TRX4 shocks and things work really well. Lots of room for upward travel.

I don't run sliders. I mounted the electronics in the battery tray and 3 oz battery next to the servo.

I run the about 12% OD in the trans and the Vanquish about 9% under drive in the rear.
 
Back
Top