• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

JK new bright body mounting questions???

gunman10

Newbie
Joined
Mar 2, 2010
Messages
17
Location
Madbury
So I decided to turn my Honcho into a hardbody New Bright 4 dr jeep JK with 1.9s... I plan on keeping most of the stuff I have on their already (Novak Goat 3s is the main space stealer), so I have a few questions to ask....

1. How is everyone mounting their new bright bodies to the chassis?? I'm thinkin probly goin with the velcro mounting option, but not sure....

2. How have you guys solved the clearance issues with things on the chassis (i.e.- gearbox, spur gear, etc.)? I really don't wanna cut the interior, but I don't have much for materials (or cash for that matter, lol) and there's not much room left on the chassis to move things around, so if I have to, then I will cut it....

3. What's the easiest method to pull the headlights and taillights out?? I happened to buy (not by choice, it's all they had) the newer New Bright that has the mud spatter all over the front, so I have to pull the lights out to clean them.... uugghh...

So, any help would be appreciated.... and if you have pics that would help too (as long as it doesn't take up the whole thread)....
 
Well I will tell u everything I know so far I got the same body and I have a tr dingo. I started by using the thread tip on the body and paint page so I removed the side skirts and front bumper. The lights are heald in place by hot glue so I just cut the glue with a razor knife. Beware I used 100% pure acetone on the the lights and windshield and it ruined them. It removed the mud very quickly but kinda looks funny after I painted the body. I wod suggest using something milder for the windshield and front light covers. Unless you have the ability to make your own links your are gonna need a set of aluminum links for your tr. I used 2 4mm spacers on one side of each link to bring the wheel base to 1mm shy of 13 inches. I just put this toegether last night and found out I need to lengthen my drive lines also. How I plan on mounting the body is taking out the body mount turning them upside down and basically making a mount off the frame with aluminum. Sorry I don't have pics but if you have any other question I'll try and awnser them the best I can.
 
Thanks for this info. I also have the same combination. Is there a need to cut the interior for clearance of the transmission? Do you have a build thread started so we can see pictures?
 
I just mounted the body and I had to trim very little off of the center console it's not even noticeable but depending on how you mount the body you won't have to because the spur fits between the center console and the back seat very well. And no I do not have a build thread.
 
Yes, me too...

I also bought the muddy Jeep for my SCX10 and was wondering how to mount it. BTW: acetone DISSOLVES ABS plastic!

As for the transmission, I was test fitting the interior and body, and the spur gear fit neatly in the center console. Maybe I am viewing it with higher body clearance than others are.

I am wondering if the plastic parts that make up the New Bright's chassis are the same type of plastic as the body. If so, I could test different chemicals for stripping the mud paint on those parts to ensure the safety of the body.
 
Yeah I found out the hard way that asetone dissolves abs plastic but I got lucky it didn't mess the body up to bad. I mounted the body the lexan way. I really wanted to be able to pull off the body if I wanted.
01e08a8e.jpg
 
Wheel base and price

Approximately 12.3" (wheelbase of the honcho kit with aluminum links) and around $80. I thought the price was steep until I started pricing a Tamiya Toyota Hilux and all of it's parts...
 
well, I got the same problem before.
this is my JK
DSC_0307.jpg

first, I extended 2'' on the scx10 chassis.
then, I made my own lower links in front, and I keep use stock 106mm links on upper links in front.
then I use velcro in the front, and drill two holds in the rear to mount the body.
I think I can take some pics, then you can see clearly"thumbsup"
 
I appreciate you guys comin in and lettin me know some tips for this.... I've been doing scale for a while, but had yet to get into doin a hard body one.... I've almost got the body done, just gotta trim some more, green putty some areas I don't need, and then some light sanding and primer/paint..... but I do have some ideas for my mounting options, so I'm gonna start doin the testing and figure out what I like....
 
I used some Nail polish remover to get some off the body but it fogs up the plastic. I sanded the rest down and painted the body OD Green. I'm still waiting for someone to find something to take the brown paint off of the lenses that won't destroy them.


Just found this looking through the paint and body fourum

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279611
 
Last edited:
I just picked up a muddy Jk at R/S for $49.95 they have a sale on them for $59.95 and I used a $10 coupon going to try to save the lights too
 
well, I got the same problem before.
this is my JK
DSC_0307.jpg

first, I extended 2'' on the scx10 chassis.
then, I made my own lower links in front, and I keep use stock 106mm links on upper links in front.
then I use velcro in the front, and drill two holds in the rear to mount the body.
I think I can take some pics, then you can see clearly"thumbsup"

David 387 what size tires are those ? Your Jeep looks great
 
Wow $80 bucks for a New Bright I just saw them at Target for $39.99 and the have the mudded Jeep, Land Rover, and a H3...
 
Picked one up yesterday at RS on sale for $59.99 I'll have to go to target tomorrow to check on price as mine is still in the box. I saw a guy out at a gtg sunday that had his body mounted that hinged in the front "thumbsup""thumbsup" saw that on a hilux build as well. Don't know how it was done but when I start getting mine ready that's how I'm going to do it as the only reason I got a jeep hardbody was for a exo cage build :ror:
 
Thanks for this info. I also have the same combination. Is there a need to cut the interior for clearance of the transmission? Do you have a build thread started so we can see pictures?
Kinda! If you don't mind your jeep having a 6" body lift you probably don't need to cut the body. If you had a tranny like RC4WD's R2 you wouldn't need to cut the body. But to avoid the spur gear and have the body low these are about the only options. Its cheaper to cut the little piece out.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281040
 
Last edited:
Picked one up yesterday at RS on sale for $59.99 I'll have to go to target tomorrow to check on price as mine is still in the box. I saw a guy out at a gtg sunday that had his body mounted that hinged in the front "thumbsup""thumbsup" saw that on a hilux build as well. Don't know how it was done but when I start getting mine ready that's how I'm going to do it as the only reason I got a jeep hardbody was for a exo cage build :ror:


Me and the wife just went up there! they went back up, I asked them Wat GIVES!

It was a BLACK FRIDAY SALE!
 
Back
Top