Jconcepts 2.6 wheel won’t stay on (SMT10)

[MT-Mark]

SMT10, Hobbywing 3600KV brushless, 2S, SSD diamond axles, standard front and full width yeti size rear.

I have a very upgraded SMT10 which is getting used as a Monster truck / basher. I recently replaced the axles and links with alu versions from SSD. Since I knew what wheels I wanted to run, and rather than rely on large offset adaptors, I went with the full width centred Yeti axle on the rear. I still have to use large offset adaptors on the front axle.

Ever since doing this I cannot get my rear right wheel to stay on. I have used copious amounts of blue locktite and have torqued the wheels nuts to such an extent that I’ve actually destroyed 2 hex hubs (see pic). It takes less than 5 mins for the wheel to come loose every time and I simply cannot for the life of me work out why it is only this one wheel I am having issues with. The rest were mounted at the same time, in the same way and have not required tightening at all.

I am using the HD version of SSD rear axle so I’m limited to using the hexes that come with them. The fit could be better between the SSD hex and the jconcepts adaptors that come with the tribute wheels. Is there anything I can do to make the fit better maybe or what other newb mistake might I have made which is consistently causing this one wheel to fall off so swiftly?

2 pictures attached. The first is a deformed adaptor, caused by the nut being tightened next to my last new one, the wheel nut I’m using and an SSD hex. The 2nd picture is the wheel nut showing how it sits and that it is what has caused the deforming of the adaptor and the SSD hex sat in place.

I also noted a comment on jconcepts website which seems like it might be very similar and I might not be the only one this is happening to?

Ideas? Help!

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[JatoTheRipper]

You should be using nylon lock nuts.

 

[altd896]

I don't have any of the JConcepts wheels so I'm not totally familiar with their hubs & I can't tell from the pics how thick they are through where the nut sits,
but is it possible through minor tolerance variations that instead of the nut tightening by it tensioning the hub & hex together
it's actually tightening at the bottom of the thread on the axle which leaves the hub slightly loose on the hex allowing it to work itself loose?

I've had trouble keeping wheel nuts tight on U4 rigs using aluminium hubs even with the nylock flange nuts till one of the other racers suggested using an M4 washer under the nut.
Since starting to do that I've no longer had issues with wheels that were tight right before going on track coming adrift 3/4 race.

 

[mprudic0404]

Man, I have wasted so much money on jconcepts rims when hard landings break or bend the plastic... if you stip the hex, it sounds like it's not getting correct bite on the 12mm metal.

First, I can only share what works for my set up, but perhaps it may shed some light.

Get BRASS 12mm hexes. Offset is personal preference. (Make sure they are FOR axial, as they will have a little lip on the inside) (if you use another type of 12mm hex, like traxxas as example, it's completely flat where rim mounts against the face.

I don't know how much (stock lip) is from the face of the metal hex, but I usually remove 1 mm, so they sit Perfectly flush inside rim. (If you want pics , ask, I'll upload)

I shim behind the hex, between out drive and pin it site on, forcing the bearing to keep slid-in-slide-out moment minimal.

I also use knurled nuts (over nylon lock nuts)
Check it all when assembled(no play) and put a tiny drop of CA over center of wheel nut. (I like rubber superglue- HYPERBOND -ebay guy makes it at home-ohio based)

super glue hasn't had any negative effects, and is peace of mind. (Until I bend the rim on landings)

This may be hard to picture, and if you would like any pics, tell me or message me. Striped hexes on you rims is a pain.

I am not sure but I think some of the triggerKing guys use DELRIN rims. (Wipes drool)

I don't mind breaking things, learning and making it better, but I've yet to find ONE single rim that won't fail. (Haven't tried delrin)

(Try a 9500kv motor and never look back!)
(Still haven't tried the 10,000kv drag motor, but soon....)



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[ferp420]

double nuts and red lock tight
i use the traxxass knereled nylock nut then a standered nylock nut on top of that with lots of red lock tight ive never had that set up come loose ever ive broken a few t wrenches trying to undo them though

also make sure all your bearings are good and the hex fits nice and tight on the shaft if theres any play there that might be the root cause of your problem

 

[durok]

I don't think he can use any other hexes because of the HD SSD axles - they are not drilled for pins, that is why they have a rectangular hole on the hexes they come with.

BTW, that's a titanium hex if I recall correctly, as I have a set.

If you have any extra axle length poking through a single nut, try the stacking of a second nut on top as ferp420 stated - this always works for me.

HTH!

"thumbsup"

 

[mprudic0404]

So the 12mm hex is flat. (Looked up the axels) might try adding a special sized washer around axel on rim side of hex. (Fill this little void section of rim)

Any of the flat hexes, IMO, don't seem to work well against an axial based wheel.

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