Help mis408 spend money on his bomber 2.0

[mjs408]

So I bought a used Bomber 2.0. it came slightly more used than advertised but you'll have that sometimes.

I immediately ordered the vanquish stainless steel link and tie rod kit, aluminum trailing arms, and sway bar, and Maxxis Trepadors. I drove it for a couple of weeks and got bored with the lack of power.

So I hit up Amain and bought a Holmes Puller Pro 540 in 3500kv flavor and a Mamba X.

Let me say this I had no frame of reference so I figured 3500kv is middle of the road, to me it Holy Shit fast.

Now what's next? I came down hard on a rear tire last night and bent an axle shaft. So I need shafts but what else?

Im thinking diff under drive gears and pinion spur to slow it down, maybe beef tubes and a steering servo.

What else should I look at?

 

[midwest_rippa]

vanquish lockouts, knuckles, chubs and trusses would be my recommendation in addition to your list. incision underdrive in the rear and a set of vp or locked up rear shafts and lockers. sounds like a lot but after these you really dont need much else.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[mjs408]

What do the lockouts do for me? Obviously not like a real lockout on a front axle.

I was thinking about metal wheels too.

 

[midwest_rippa]

lockouts go on the ends of the rear axle, upgrading the plastic ones helps stop the axle from deflecting

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[durok]

Also add Beef tubes, or one of the various other companies that make stainless versions.

They slide inside the plastic axle housing but are large enough inside for the axle to spin.

Here's a page from my admittedly over-the-top Bomber build (14 pages) - this post shows pics from right when I was mostly done - you should be able to tell from the axle pics what isn't stock:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-rr10-bomber/572722-just-shut-up-build-thread-9.html#post5851338

By the end of the build the only stock parts were the skid, the cage and the tranny housing - even the plastic axle housings were Dlux Fab versions that allowed for larger pinion bearings - and I have enough parts to build ANOTHER Bomber-based build with carbon fiber chassis rails - it doesn't use any Axial parts at all. That stuff is still laying around the apartment... :twisted:

Here's what it looks like these days:

It gets driven hard from time to time:

 

[ferp420]

heres my list of parts.i plan on using on my bomber when i actually get around to building it also the parts i used on my wraith that uses most of the same parts as the bomber

i use potmetal axles on most of my rigs so 2 potmetal ar60s i fell there a good choice for 2.reasons 1 there strong and 2 there heavy so it lowers your center of gravity alot so you dont role over as much
what ever axles you get do the big bearing mod on then potmetal or aluminum or plastic i just use a 1/2 drill bit and hog the bearing pockets out just be carefull and go slow
i like the holms hobbies direct power servos there extremely strong and they sell extra gears if you do manage to kill them remeber your front tires are the first thing to hit any obsticle so the front end take a beating buy the best and strongest servo one you can

you have to slow that rig down some so your gona want a tiny pinon gear in the 10-12 tooth range the bomber uses 32 pitch gears

the under drive gears in the rear will help keep the rig going in a straight line when driving it fast and some say it helps crawling too

for the front axle shaft buying axial or vanquish shafts are a good investment those parts take a beating
for your rear axle shafts i have found the $50 shafts bend just as easy as the $10 shafts theres no advantage to buying exspensive rear shafts i even bent the titanium shafts on a small drop to so i only buy cheap ones now
same with ring and pinion gears ive found the cheap ones work just fine as long as there hardend steal
they sell sintared locker and gears so be carefull you dont want powdered gears lol but you dont need to spemnd $40 on a ring and pinion
ether
you definitly want aluminum wheels the plastic worp bad especialy when using alot of power

and most important buy good rubber sealed bearings there are alot of companys who sell bearing sets for your bomber its a good investment also get extra bearings for the front axle they like to eat bearings with that much power

the front knuckles need to be be good quality i use ssd or vanquish knuckles again the front end takes a beating the rear lockouts arent that important they can be cheap but should be aluminum

shocks are shock in my opinion no reason to spend extra money they ether mostly it comes down to how the shocks are asembled than anything

 

[bgredjeep]

It sounds like you've got all the big ticket items covered it's just a matter of tweaking it to work best with whatever you plan to use it for (which I don't see mentioned).

My build is pretty similar to what ferp laid out. I think I used boom racing housings. No complaints on those so far. Whatever you do with the housings, I do like the clamping style c-hubs and lockouts.

I ran with stock gearing and a 3900kv motor for a while and found it was fast enough that I didn't have to run wide open to have fun and had a little more on tap when I wanted it. It crawled good as well, but I wanted better low speed control so I swapped in a 2spd. Still running the same 3900kv motor.

If you haven't already started spending on your axles, another option is ryft axles. Those will help with stability, and axle shaft strength. I guess it depends on your driving as to the stock housing needing an upgrade, but cheap housings for those are starting to pop up as well. I'll eventually go that route on mine so I can ditch the wider wheel adapters I'm running currently.

 

[mjs408]

I like to crawl it (although my buddies Capra makes it look dumb) I rip it around a field by my house, crawl the concrete and spoils piles at my work, crawl a creek line with my boy and his honcho. take it to the skate park once.

a 2 speed is on my list, but I cant decide which one. Im trying to figure out the Mamba Xs ability to switch driving modes via 3rd channel, but that also means I would need a new Transmitter/Receiver

Gears, Shafts, and Tubes are coming. Along with a Spur and Pinion

 

[ferp420]

if your still running stock axial axles your gona eat ring and pinion gears with that much power you might be ok right now but if it ever gets over 80°were you live your gona have a problem
the plastic gets hot ether from the outside temps or the gears them selfs getting hot the plastic will deform and your gears wont mesh anymore
the more power you put though it and the heavyer your rig the worse the difflection gets
one summer i bought new bearings new gears and a new housing put it all together shimmed it all up everything was nice and tight and the gears still slipped after going to a metal housing no more gear issues infact 6 years later its still running the same gear sets


and since your running a brushless motor im assuming its sensored you wont need the 2 speed there fun to play with but it would be just that a feature to play with

 

[mjs408]

It is sensored. Puller Pro 540.

I'm in North Iowa so on any given day it could be Planet Hoth or the 7th layer of Hell, or both.

I'll look at metal housing.

 

[bgredjeep]

Yeah, if you don't have the aux wire setup and working, just that will make a big difference in the crawling ability. Get a transmitter with a dial to use for the 3rd channel and you can adjust from fwd-brk-rev with 0 drag brake, all the way to crawler mode (fwd-rev) and 30-100% drag brake at the turn of the dial.

Imo that's the best thing about the mamba x for this platform.

It should be able to crawl pretty well with your current setup and the stock gearing.

 

[mjs408]

Well

This is what we went with.

Vanquish Stage 1 kit
Lurc shafts,big spool, and under drive for rear.
Beef tubes X2
And lurc rims.
And aluminum body panels I have a wild paint
job for.

I think about a 2 speed trans. Some people say do it w brushless some say don't.

 

[bgredjeep]

Looks like a stout list. I ended up taking my own advise and ordered a set of ryft axles to try out. Lol

On the 2spd, I think it's completely optional depending on your use. My car worked great with the stock trans, I just found myself doing a lot more slow crawling. I didn't want to give up high speed performance to improve the low speed control. Plus I just like to tinker.