Hardbody: Paint Over Paint? Need Putty Suggestions Too

[crawlinwithacat]

Hey friends.I am currently doing some heavy body work on my RC4WD D110 Gelande 2 and I am mostly done with the building(I turned it into a pickup) and realized I had some questions

1. Can I paint over the existing paint as long as I scuff sand and prime it? Or should I really sand off as much as possible... I plan to use Tamiya fine surface primer and their TS line of paints if thats relevant at all.

2. Then for painting the raw styrene you scuff sand then prime, yes? That's what my intuition tells me.

3. Any recommendations on a plastic putty? I have been told that vallejo's acrylic putty is good, but wanted to see if there were any other popular opinions on here. (I don't have an aversion to solvent based either)

Thanks!

 

[HumboldtEF]

So long as the original coat of paint was prepped properly and you scuff it up for the next coat, paint on paint should be perfectly fine. Whether you need primer on top of the original paint I dont know, it may be overkill but I'd assume it couldnt hurt.


For filler I make my own out of body scraps dissolved in solvent (acetone or a plastic weld solvent), the scraps will melt down and then it can be used as a filler. though I would only apply this to areas that have no paint.
Its probably not the best for doing a fine coat, its more appropriate for larger gaps.
I try to use scraps from the same body so the material is the same.

here are some things I've filled
sunroof

Nose cone

Here's a video someone made that show the basic process


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVLwgKj60l4

Keep in mind this takes some time to dry. I usually let it dry over night. You can sand it sooner but it tends to be soft for a while which isnt great for the sanding process.

For the raw body yes you'd scuff/sand then prime it.

 

[LJ802]

So long as the original coat of paint was prepped properly and you scuff it up for the next coat, paint on paint should be perfectly fine. Whether you need primer on top of the original paint I dont know, it may be overkill but I'd assume it couldnt hurt.


For filler I make my own out of body scraps dissolved in solvent (acetone or a plastic weld solvent), the scraps will melt down and then it can be used as a filler. though I would only apply this to areas that have no paint.
Its probably not the best for doing a fine coat, its more appropriate for larger gaps.
I try to use scraps from the same body so the material is the same.

here are some things I've filled
sunroof

Nose cone

Here's a video someone made that show the basic process


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVLwgKj60l4

Keep in mind this takes some time to dry. I usually let it dry over night. You can sand it sooner but it tends to be soft for a while which isnt great for the sanding process.

For the raw body yes you'd scuff/sand then prime it.

will be using this process for sure, nice tip! [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[crawlinwithacat]

Ok thanks!! I have heard of that and will give it a try. I would like to try a pre made putty just for fun. Maybe a solvent based one so that it might be a lttle sronger in the long run. Any suggestions?

 

[struhall]

Depending on the condition of the original paint I just sand and paint over it. I have some bodies that I was fixing body work and sanded through 2 colors before I hit plastic. I always sand and prime my bodies before I paint but I'm also usually doing some weathering so I need rust and primer colors under my main body color.

I use automotive spot glaze putty for any finish work.

 

[crawlinwithacat]

Depending on the condition of the original paint I just sand and paint over it. I have some bodies that I was fixing body work and sanded through 2 colors before I hit plastic. I always sand and prime my bodies before I paint but I'm also usually doing some weathering so I need rust and primer colors under my main body color.

I use automotive spot glaze putty for any finish work.

Okay, thanks.

Does anybody have any experience with the tamiya putties?