Gramps SCX24 Chevy C10

[Gramps]

This is the 1st SCX24 that I bought because I use to have a 1:1 teal green '69 Chevy Stepside. It had the white wagon wheels on it. So the little green C10 appealed to me when I started looking at the 1/24 crawlers.


Haven't done much to it, bought some RC4WD white steel beadlocks & a set of Nitto tires. Probably not my best choice for tires but will do for now. Swapped out the servo for an Emax and that is pretty much all that has been done to it.


I didn't like the lights being on all the time and at times they would shine in my eyes when trying to maneuver. They have switches on eBay & Amazon that will let you turn lights on and off with a switch on the tx but they cost $11.95 each & I'm cheap, though I don't think my wife would agree. She claims I'm high maintenance. I had heard of using a servo board for this so I did a little research and found it wasn't that hard to do. All that was needed was a servo & some soldering skills.



I started with a SG90 servo

Took it apart and unsoldered the motor and the rheostat.

I then took a servo extension & cut the end that goes into the rx off and cut the signal wire back some as it won't be used. I then soldred the servo extension positive and negitive wires to the board where the motor was soldered on.

Next I unplugged the lights for the rx and plugged them into the servo extension making sure the polarity was correct. For now I have the extra wire along side the rx case. I plan on moving the lights to the grill where they belong so I left the servo extension long for that purpose. At least I hope it's long enough or I'll solder a new on on.

So now I can turn the lights on and off from the tx

 

[Gramps]

Stock wheel & tires compared to steel wheel & tire. The tire on the steel wheels is the Nitto that comes on the Deadbolt & also has no foam

 

[Gramps]

Picked up a set of RC4WD Patagonias for the C10. Mounted then on the RC4WD steel wheels.

For me the easiest way to mount 1.0 beadlocks after 3D printing an insert that fits in the wheel and hold the hex hub in place while starting and tightening the screws.
Also strt with 3 screws 1 in every other hole

I snug these 3 down a little at a time going in a circle. I then put in the other 3 and finish. I've found that the bead sets better using this method. YMMV

 

[Statenheimer]

Neat method for switching the lighting [emoji106]

I have the same truck and have had my eye on white wagon wheels as well, though soon mine will have a printed body [emoji48]

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[Gramps]

Wanted to try some different shocks so I bought what I thought was Cr24 shocks but turned out to be RGT shocks which appear to be the same shocks used on the Enduro 24. They are a plastic friction shock with a pretty still spring.

I used some ball mounts from SCX24 shocks to mount these on the C10. I had to drill out the top hole to 1/8 in which is 3.12mm This was a little tight but the next size bit I had was to big so I went with the 3.12mm. The bottom the hole was bigger on one side, the smaller side the SCX24 ball would pop in and stay. you can't twist the shock to get the balls lined up so you need to make sure that they are in the correct orientation when popped in. You also need to mount the shocks upside down. The bottom ball loop is just a little big for the mounting position.

I first mounted the shocks in the stock position. It gave the truck a jacked up look which I don't care for even on 1:1's. However it did crawl fairly well. Seems to turn better too.

Next I moved the top of the shocks to frame which angled the a little, lowered the truck some and in theory should have softened the springs some. To me the springs are to stiff the extra travel is nice but the truck isn't heavy enough to put any load on them. May see if I can find some softer springs or maybe cut a couple of coils off of these.


It crawled pretty well like this but still needed softer springs.


Next I removed the springs and tried a full droop setup. In this configuration it didn't crawl as well as it did with the stiff springs, though it did sit more to my liking.

In the droop configuration is doesn't seem to plant the front wheels as well as with springs so it doesn't climb as well and doesn't steer as well either. The only weight this truck has is th steel wheels. Brass Chubs would help with that the front end bite I'm sure but I think it can also be achieved with springs without adding any weight.

 

[vinceherman]

Hey Gramps, for your light mod. I see that the receiver/ESC has an auxiliary channel, which I assume that you use for the servo board-light controller.
Are you using the stock transmitter? I do not see anything other than 2 channels on it.
How are you controlling the lights?

 

[Gramps]

Hey Gramps, for your light mod. I see that the receiver/ESC has an auxiliary channel, which I assume that you use for the servo board-light controller.
Are you using the stock transmitter? I do not see anything other than 2 channels on it.
How are you controlling the lights?

Yes I'm using the stock TX. The switch on the upper left corner of the TX is for the 3rd channel which is AUX on the ESC/RX

 

[vinceherman]

Huh. Ch3. Maybe I should have read the instructions.


Did you simply remove the wires for the rheostat?
Or did you tie the middle wire to ground? Or hot?

I did yank the board out of one of my old servos to see if I can make this work too.

 

[Gramps]

Huh. Ch3. Maybe I should have read the instructions.


Did you simply remove the wires for the rheostat?
Or did you tie the middle wire to ground? Or hot?

I did yank the board out of one of my old servos to see if I can make this work too.

I'm not sure it's even in the manual, I discovered it either on the forums or YT.


I unsoldered the motor and the rheostat. I used a servo extension for the wire. I soldered the pos & neg wires from the servo extension to the motor output lugs.

 

[Gramps]

Picked up a new set of shocks

They are a little longer than the stock shocks

To mount them first I removed the cap and used a phillips screw driver to take them apart. To mount them on a SCX24 you will need to use the bottom loop which needs to be drilled out a bit. I used a 1/16 drill bit and opened it up a little by hand.

The tops of the stock SCX24 are also used. I had an extra set of SCX24 shocks for donors. It takes a bit to get the caps lined up, your screwing plastic on to aluminum. I put some o0ring grease in them for lubrication.

I also installed them upside down to help keep the grease in them

It sits a little higher than with the stock shocks.

Made a test run on my indoor track. I liked the way the C10 handled with the new shocks. Not nearly as much body rub. Seemed pretty stable too. Here's the test video.

 

[Vmax]

Looking good.

You're video is marked private so I can't see it.

 

[Gramps]

Looking good.

You're video is marked private so I can't see it.

It was still processing when I posted the link. Think it is working now

 

[Gramps]

Swapped out the stock lower controls arms for some 3D printed high clearance ones.

 

[Gramps]

I had a couple of the wheel nuts strip out just enough they wouldn't start and tighten down good with the wheel on. With it off they would screw on fine. I'm glad it stripped the nut and not the axle shaft. Found 60 on Amazon for $8.99

 

[TekmoCrawl]

Nice. You Make the control arms yourself?

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[Gramps]

Thanks. Yes designed them in FreeCad then 3D printed

 

[mitch.douglas21]

If you become unhappy with this shock set up I've had good luck with the hotracing set. Comes with all the hardware, and 2 sets of springs to change between, but I'm sure you could also fit stock, and the other springs you've got in there to have a variety to change through

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[Gramps]

I put a set of the Kenetic dual stage shocks on the Jeep. So far I'm really liking them. The only thing I don't like about the ones on the C10 is how high they make the truck sit.

 

[4RunnerKid]

I put a set of the Kenetic dual stage shocks on the Jeep. So far I'm really liking them. The only thing I don't like about the ones on the C10 is how high they make the truck sit.

try installing the shocks into the body post holes "thumbsup"