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G-Speed / SSD V3 Trail King (Gssspeedd?)

mash914

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
158
Location
Pittsburghish
I really like all of the SSD parts that I have for my Enduro and my TRX-4 so I wanted to try the Trail King - luckily my wife bought me one for my birthday. Unfortunately I haven't been able to decide what direction I want to go with it. After a summer of watching YT videos and reading posts here I've developed a pretty strong desire to try out an LCG build.

So I decided to try merging my Trail King with a V3 chassis rails kit. There were a few things I was sort of worried about with the new chassis, the main one being getting the transmission situated. I decided to buy the V3 kit that included the basic skid, sliders, servo mount etc. I also added chassis spacers and the extra "versatile" panhard mount. The goal was to see how much I could use from both kits to make a cool truck.
Over the weekend I started to mock up most of the parts to see how I want everything to go together. The SSD skid mostly fits. There are small nubs need to be trimmed and then the rails can pull in tight to the skid. Lower link locations are in almost the same spot as the V3 skid, so the axles end up where they belong. Rear upper links obviously have a whole bunch of locations so that will be super easy to put them where i want them. The front is slightly more complicated, but not too bad. The SSD skid partially blocks the chassis mount location for the upper link, so I had to shave that down (if i ultimately use this skid I'll trim all of that extra stuff off). Surprisingly the SSD panhard mount fits perfectly and seems to put the axle right in the center.
So far everything seems to be going swimmingly.

Here are the areas that will still need attention - oddly, the SSD driveshaft is just a tick too long. It shouldn’t be because the skid, transmission, and links are all the same. The only real hard point mounting difference is that the upper link is mounted to a slightly different spot (it really isn’t far off stock SSD though). Probably the real culprit is that the extra tilt provided by the angled V3 skid combined with the lowered ride height puts the axle in a location that the Trail King never would be. I debated trying to shorten the driveshaft, but SSD specs have a extension range of about 10mm - based on normal arc, this is cutting it close if i don’t get it right. I decided to try the Incision driveshafts because they have a range that that’s a bit shorter on the low end. It’s not a total loss as I can most likely use the SSD shafts on my enduro. The other thing I still need to get right is the transmission mounting. I’ve mocked up a few different things, but haven’t decided on anything yet. Luckily this will be totally doable with minimal fabrication. I’m thinking some spacers to lift it up and angle it to slightly more level, then putting a couple of holes in the chassis rails to attach the front mounts.
One other thing I’ll need to address is the shocks. The SSD shocks are really stiff for this setup. I ordered the SSD soft springs (only $5 for a full set!!!). The truck sits too high, but also they just seem a bit stiff. I still need to take them apart, grease everything, fill them, etc. - I’m hopeful with a bit of fiddling they’ll loosen up. Really beautifully built though - just based on looks they make the Enduro shocks look very toy-like.

Ok, enough talking here are some pictures as it sits...
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Once i have the chassis mostly where I want it, I have to decide on a body. I have a totally beat Power Wagon body that I might just try to rig into something useful. If not, I really like the MST J45C body. I like the SSD engine though and I'm not really a big fan of engine swaps, so if I go non-domestic, I'll probably just skip the engine. I know, nobody will see it, but I'll know :wink:

One other thing - I was looking for a servo last night and debating with myself if I really wanted to spend another $130 for a super terrific HH SHV500V3 like I have and love on my TRX4. I went to the website just to window shop and what do I see? They are now priced at $90!!! So I ordered one. Now I'm thinking I'm going to order another just because.
 
Looks good, I've always wondered why i never see this combo together-the SSD tranny would look really good in between those rails:ror:

Just outta curiosity, how come you didn't unscrew the rod ends to get the shaft to fit? Easy way of getting that it in there.

Wow, $90?!?! That seems like a steal to me. The EcoPower I normally buy is only $20 cheaper and it only runs 400oz-in on 7.4v. Only thing that sucks is the Holmes need a 3S and JST and I don't have any rigs that run either:x
 
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Thanks. I debated a bit of fiddling with the links, but I measured I'd need a good 8mm of extra length. The way these links are built, I'm not comfortable leaving them unthreaded that much - they're much stronger with the ends shouldered against the links. Besides - I've been wanting to check those Incision shafts out anyway.

Good thinking though "thumbsup"
 
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Youve got a good start there. Ive been tempted to try this exact setup, just because i havent seen it done. Im in the process of buildin a c1 rig now.

SLN has a good point, u could adjust on the rod ends n itll help with driveshaft length

Sent from my SM-A516V using Tapatalk
 
Yep. If these had been one piece links with nice thick threads I might consider it, but they're the hollow tube type with small threaded inserts - they probably would have been fine, but I generally don't like leaving stuff like that half threaded - there really wouldn't be much left to hold.

Anyway, the new shafts are ordered, so that's sort of decided.

Also ordered - another SHV500V3 - I couldn't resist the price.
 
Just a suggestion:

I'd definitely replace those regular nuts on the links with lock nuts-they can easily wiggle free and spin off.

I'm sure you already know this and was just doing it for ease of initial setup as I do the same thing, but I'd hate to see your first run cut short because of a lost nut "thumbsup"

And I agree with you on the links. I don't like links that utilize a set screw on the rod ends, they don't feel as strong as a threaded one.
 
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Just a suggestion:

I'd definitely replace those regular nuts on the links with lock nuts-they can easily wiggle free and spin off.

I'm sure you already know this and was just doing it for ease of initial setup as I do the same thing, but I'd hate to see your first run cut short because of a lost nut "thumbsup"

And I agree with you on the links. I don't like links that utilize a set screw on the rod ends, they don't feel as strong as a threaded one.
Great point on the nuts. If you look closely I'm also using stacked nuts as spacers :ror: It is just for fitting things up.

But that does bring up another question I have - what is everybody using for spacers? For things like pushing the shocks away from the mounts for example? Are you guys cutting tubing to length? Or buying pre-made spacers?
 
Great point on the nuts. If you look closely I'm also using stacked nuts as spacers :ror: It is just for fitting things up.

But that does bring up another question I have - what is everybody using for spacers? For things like pushing the shocks away from the mounts for example? Are you guys cutting tubing to length? Or buying pre-made spacers?


I do that too lmao. It doesn't look the best but it works.
 
Small update. I've been working on getting the transmission where I want it. I'm trying to balance a few things - I'd like it to sit no higher than necessary, I'd like to keep it relatively horizontal to keep driveshaft angles shallow, and I want to get close to full compression of the front axle so the link mount doesn't hit the motor. I know the axle will typically not be fully compressed on both sides, but if anything is going to hit I don't want it to be that. I horizontaled the upper mounting face so that my spacers would be at right angles to both the bottom of the transmission and the top of the skid. I also opened up the through holes on the skid just a bit to allow the screws to pass through at an angle. So far it's seeming to hold pretty tight. The other thing I did was clean up the extra link mount sections on the skid.
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As before all hardware is temporary and not screwed all the way in. Once I get the transmission where I want it, I'll be able to attach the forward mounts to the side rails.

The next thing I'm really struggling with is the body. As I said, I have an almost completely destroyed Power Wagon body that I thought would be cool as a minimalist kind of thing with the engine somewhat exposed. Unfortunately, it's drifting more toward '32 Ford hot rod than cool off road beast. I may give up on the body yet.

The other thing I'm trying to figure out is these shocks. They look really great and move smoothly, but they are really, really stiff. I've loosened up the lower cap but the truck basically just sits wherever I push it to. When I set it down they shocks stay fully extended and if I then push it down it stays down. I haven't taken them apart to grease them yet - I really hope that's all that's going on there. I'll be trying that this weekend.
 
A few updates:
I got all of the electronics wired up (but not installed). This included soldering leads on the motor, which allowed me to get the transmission put together. That meant I could locate and drill the holes in the frame rails for the forward transmission supports. Worked out great. Considering I was trying to balance driveshaft angles, overall height of the "heavy" motor / trans combo, and clearance up front for the axle, it all worked out pretty well without too much fussing about. The transmission has a little bit of an angle (exaggerated looking in the picture), but I think it'll be ok.
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One other thing I decided to try was to shorten the rails in the rear. I hadn't seen that done, but no matter what body I use it won't have a rear bumper hanging out behind the rear wheels. I lost about an inch. I'm not sure yet if I like the way it looks yet. I'll have to see once the body is on.
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Oh yeah, two more things - because of the changed geometry, the panhard (despite being offset) was hitting the top of the pumpkin, so I grabbed a couple of offset endlinks from RC4WD that lifted it up just enough. I needed a small spacer to get the length right (which as I mentioned earlier I was reluctant to do), but it was only about 2 mm and I was able to shoulder it up tight - we'll.
Et3k2Qr.jpg


The other thing that worked out well was now that the transmission sits a little bit higher than my first fit-up test, there was enough clearance for the SSD driveshaft (yay!). So everything seems to be working out ok.

I ordered the bell housing spacer and some headers for the engine. Next comes body - this one's going to be a bit complicated...
 
I have a couple of trail kings and I did test fit everything up to the V3 rails but didn’t like the angle of the transmission.I ended up doing my build with the Vader skid with a FMM and Tgh transfer case. Now that I’ve seen your build I think I will revisit mounting the ssd trans for my next Gspeed build.

Rich
 
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