Have a RTR rig and tired of the look? Is it already all scratched up?
Below is a scuffed-up factory-painted K10 Ascender, with the yellow factory paint backed with 10yr-old Pactra (brushed) black, hood painted black (10yr-old Pactra spray) and decals added and a final overcoat of (newly-purchased Tamiya PS55 spray) matte clear (after a quick-and-dirty exterior mask of front & back windows). Ideally I would have masked the inside of the windows when I painted the black, but it's a beater body and I just went with the "Limo tint" look... (I'm a lazy bastard, excuses, excuses)
Grille cut out and replaced with metal mesh - Shoe-Goo'd around the edges...
Wheels painted with 10yr-old Testors enamel using a brush - they've been scuffed to the point of almost removing the chrome completely with a scotchbrite pad (as are the aluminum bed panels, although they were painted right after purchase - rig hasn't been run since the other paintwork).
I greatly prefer it to the "new" look... of course, I'll be buying a new body later to allow a (hopefully!) better job of realism and personal color choice
This body was really looking like death-warmed-over from all the rollovers in the rocky terrain I run in, and when you pair the shiny clear lexan over bright color paint from the underside, all the gouges really stood out. I figure the matte clear will do a better job of protecting it, and it definitely filled existing scrapes and did wonders for the realism - (damn, I so wish I'd managed to mask the windows, but feck it...):
From the side pic below as well as in the above pics, you can see that what was not fixable - scratches in the factory-applied external window and rocker-panel trim decals - I imagine if I had to do it all over again, I'd shoot the brand-new RTR body in matte clear after masking all windows and applying any additional graphics/decals from the outside, and masking the inside of the windows before spraying the underside black. Also - using spray cans is better than brushed-on paint, but I have a shoebox full of extremely old lexan and other modelling paints - all I have left from my old R/C and model-building days. Most are dried up!
As I go and run this some more, it's gonna get beat up again, but that just adds character - and the scratches should look more "real" than they did on the clear lexan and on the decals...
Below is a scuffed-up factory-painted K10 Ascender, with the yellow factory paint backed with 10yr-old Pactra (brushed) black, hood painted black (10yr-old Pactra spray) and decals added and a final overcoat of (newly-purchased Tamiya PS55 spray) matte clear (after a quick-and-dirty exterior mask of front & back windows). Ideally I would have masked the inside of the windows when I painted the black, but it's a beater body and I just went with the "Limo tint" look... (I'm a lazy bastard, excuses, excuses)
Grille cut out and replaced with metal mesh - Shoe-Goo'd around the edges...
Wheels painted with 10yr-old Testors enamel using a brush - they've been scuffed to the point of almost removing the chrome completely with a scotchbrite pad (as are the aluminum bed panels, although they were painted right after purchase - rig hasn't been run since the other paintwork).
I greatly prefer it to the "new" look... of course, I'll be buying a new body later to allow a (hopefully!) better job of realism and personal color choice
This body was really looking like death-warmed-over from all the rollovers in the rocky terrain I run in, and when you pair the shiny clear lexan over bright color paint from the underside, all the gouges really stood out. I figure the matte clear will do a better job of protecting it, and it definitely filled existing scrapes and did wonders for the realism - (damn, I so wish I'd managed to mask the windows, but feck it...):
From the side pic below as well as in the above pics, you can see that what was not fixable - scratches in the factory-applied external window and rocker-panel trim decals - I imagine if I had to do it all over again, I'd shoot the brand-new RTR body in matte clear after masking all windows and applying any additional graphics/decals from the outside, and masking the inside of the windows before spraying the underside black. Also - using spray cans is better than brushed-on paint, but I have a shoebox full of extremely old lexan and other modelling paints - all I have left from my old R/C and model-building days. Most are dried up!
As I go and run this some more, it's gonna get beat up again, but that just adds character - and the scratches should look more "real" than they did on the clear lexan and on the decals...
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