Electronics choose for Axial scx10 iii

[shizopotam]

Hi everyone.
I'm going to build my first crawler.
The idea to buy Axial scx10 iii kit and build from that.
Now I'm trying to choose all the electronics I need to make it work. It seems like a lot of things to consider and I'm afraid to miss something.
I created some list of things I think would work good together, but I need to verify that everything is ok.

My questions are (in order of priority):
Is everything is going to work well for the crawler?
Is there any potential problems with compatibility?
Could some parts be replaced with something considerably better within the same budget? Like +-15%.
Could some parts be replaced without loss in quality/features with something cheaper?

So, that's what I'm currently thinking to buy:

Charger
Spektrum Smart S1100 AC Charger, 1x100W

Battery
Spektrum 5000mAh 3S 11.1V 50C Smart LiPo Hardcase; IC3 * 2.

Micro servo
Ecopower 640t. Do I need two of them?

Steering servo
Holmes Hobbies shv 500 v3

ESC + motor
Mamba X + 1406 2280kv

Receiver + transmitter
Spektrum Rugged dx5 + SR515

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[meatmonkey]

Your on the right track. Great choice in servo, motor, ESC, and Radio. Not budget stuff, but stuff that performs very well and lasts.

My only suggestion is don't buy into the Spectrum "smart" batteries and chargers, they cost a premium and won't work with other brand batteries.

Battery capacity is directly linked to battery size and weight. Those 5000mah 3s packs will provide many hours of runtime, but are also quite heavy and since mounted fairly high up on the vehicle they will be a detriment to performance. I suggest looking at 2200 mah 3s packs as a good compromise of cost/runtime/weight/performance. I personally have had great luck with Gens Ace, having several of them ranging from a few months, to a few years old. I used to run Turnigy 2200's, but the last few I got puffed up scarrily at only a few monthes old, so no more of them for me. Granted, I'm that guy that submarines his trucks, leaves packs laying around charged for a few weeks at a time, doesn't bother with storage voltage, basically I'm a poor example of how to take car of batteries. The better care you take of them, the longer they last.

Keep in mind theres a bunch of different styles of battery connectors, with XT60's being very popular in the 1/10 crawling scene. I mention this because that Castle system will require a connector soldered to it, and those Gens ace packs, and others, can come with a couple different connectors, so you must make sure they match.

You will need two micro servos if you wish to operate the 2 speed transmission and dig.

 

[shizopotam]

Great, thank you for the answer, meatmonkey.
I will look into not getting trapped in the battery vendor lock, thanks for that. And also will consider the connector type.
As for capacity, I'm not sure. I would like to have some reserve in the running time sense, I suspect I will lose some stability and it will flip over more easily, right?
Will this effect be so noticable with the larger batteries?

 

[meatmonkey]

Runtime is just as dependent on driving style (meaning if you have a heavy trigger finger) as battery capacity. In a trail truck with low gearing and simple terrain i can easily eek an hour out of a 3s 2200, whereas when snow bashing at mostly full throttle that same pack last under 20 minutes.

You can typically purchase 2 or 3 2200s for the price of one 5000. The 2200 are fairly light and compact, so for long hikes I carry a few spares and don't mind swapping them on the trail.

There's a very noticeable stability difference going from a 2200 to a 5000. Many who start with large packs end up adding more weight down low in the form of metal axles and brass parts in an attempt to keep the truck upright. This can easily start a cycle where added weight adds stress, which requires stronger parts, and more power to move, which also puts more stress on the truck. Keeping it light keeps it durable and inexpensive. Others prefer heavier trucks that drive more scale. I just want mine to conquer seemingly impossible terrain with a toy truck that vaguely resembles something I'd built in full size if I had unlimited skills and budget.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Big batteries have no place in a crawler. 2200s are a solid size and with that electronics combo they'll last forever. Gravity doesn't take a day off so lighter packs are better.

 

[CamoColton]

To echo what others have said - seriously consider batteries and chargers that aren't spektrum (horizon hobby). Do anything you can to stay out of "ecosystems" that are being forced upon us. XT60's for the win, look for the genuine "Amass" produced ones. I have various shorty 3S packs from 1550 to 3700mah, and seldom to I actually hit voltage cutoff on any of them. And I use a Hitec X2 black edition charger and it's done me well. I charger everything on it from 1S to 6S.

 

[eternus]

I'm just looking into battery options for a new Wraith so this thread is great. Thanks! I was actually just looking at the Spektrum batteries so will avoid that. Is there a brand for batteries or chargers that's awesome?

 

[CamoColton]

I have a Hitec X2 Black edition charger, my brother has their RDX1 Mini. He has simpler needs than I do (one battery at a time, nothing more than 3S). I wanted dual outputs, and turns out I ended up needing its 6S abilities.

Find a charger that has the ability to discharge when you don't have time to run your packs down to "storage" voltage. The above Hitecs have a storage mode that gets the cells to 3.80V I believe. Either charging up to that point or draining down. I'm sure many others do too.

Batteries - I've bought Helios, Ovonic (Amazon), Reedy stubby Wolf Packs, Turnigy, and more recently SMC (for an ARRMA Mojave).

All have served me just fine.

 

[Voodoobrew]

I second the opinion a 5000mah battery is too big and heavy for difficult crawling. not only will you tip over easer, but the extra weight breaks more parts when it falls. smaller batteries with spares in your pockets has worked great for me.

 

[GTSLOW]

I'm running...

BRXL, Crawlmaster Magnum 13t, and SHV500v1.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

 

[DestinyHeaney]

I've narrowed down my search to a couple trucks, but I'm hung up on some things. The TRX-4 Sport is $370 as a rtr. The kit version of it is $300, and comes with some accessories that the rtr doesn't come with like the expedition rack. Now I don't get why the kit, which doesn't have the labor put into assembly or any of the electronics in the rtr, is still so expensive. I haven't looked much into the price of electronics, but I'm sure that crontroller, motor, servo, etc. will all add up and make the kit considerably more expensive than the rtr.

Am I missing something? Is there some other upgrades you get with the kit that don't come with the rtr?


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