This post is meant not to be an end all, answer to every question, but to be more of a guide of what to buy, and what to expect when you decide it’s time to venture into the world of a more custom build. I’ve had my share of kits in the past, as well as a few RTR’s but when it came time to take the next step in the world of crawling, I couldn’t find much in the way of a post of what to get and what to expect for building a crawler out of parts. I’ll try to be concise with what to buy but realize you can come at this from a variety of angles.
In general you’ll need to purchase the following:
Chassis
Skid plate
Transmission
Axles
Shocks
Links
Driveshafts
Braces/servo mount
Hardware
Body mounts
Wheels/tires
Bumpers/sliders
And of course electronics. I’m not gonna get into the realm of “superlight” or “comp” builds since you can always steer your build that way from the start, this is a general build post to get you in the ballpark. The brands/vendors I mention are those that I’ve had direct experience with but are no means the only option you have or the best option. I’ve recently built a TGH Sherpa and a GSpeed V3 so many of my examples/info may reference these two options but can be adapted to other variations. Also, some companies may sell a “bundle” that’s designed around a certain platform that may help those in the beginning. Also be aware that if you are leaning towards a “comp” build you may have to adhere to specific rules based on the class you plan on competing in.
Let’s get started:
Start with the chassis you have some direct experience with (maybe a local with a similar setup) or a build on here. My first purchase was on the recommendation of a fellow RCC poster who was very accommodating of my questions, thus leading to my choice.
The next choice may be the hardest since you’ve got to pick a skid based on the transmission you plan to use. Some companies offer a skid with many mounting options and some offer a few based on some popular comp style of transmission. Most will be machined delrin which is very dense and machines very well but I recommend getting a 3mm tap to aid in the build.
My chassis choice led me into what transmission to pick since they offered a bundle (making many of the choices simpler).
My choice of axles was based on a currently used rig of mine, making the “cost” slightly cheaper though you can pick up some axles prebuilt (like the 10.3 straight axle kit) or something like a Boom racing/Beef Tubes/SSD where you purchase parts/pieces to make up what you need.
Shocks were again an easy choice since I used the shocks from the car that was generous enough to donate its axles! Again, Traxxas GTS or Big Bore, Dravtech, Enduro, as well as some other options are out there if you want to truly go all custom. Don’t forget to take into account the length of shock to complement your axle choice (i.e. portal axles so slightly shorter shocks).
Links are available from a few places, depending on your choice of chassis and the material you wish to use for the actual links. I’ve bought more than a few sets from In The Works RC but Hardcore RC is another option if you want something a little more specific (like Titanium or Brass as well as straight or high clearance). Also make sure that you verify the wheelbase you plan on having since in some cases you may be able to have a super short link for an 11.0” WB or super long 12.8” WB.
Driveshafts come in many configurations from a simple plastic Axial wildboar to an Element plastic/aluminum up to an metal MIP/Supershafty/Boom Racing. One of my rigs uses a separate motor mount and transfer case so I needed a third driveshaft. If you plan on using an Axial style 3 gear (or Vanquish version or Enduro version) you’ll only need a pair. Also make sure that you refer to the original build plan/link length since you may stretch out a standard length shaft and need to purchase a few option pieces to make your driveshaft match your WB.
One place to make a choice is the servo mount/bracing. Some companies like TGH sell a two servo upright mount that’s found in many kit or RTR models like the 4-10 or Enduro. GSpeed offers a G-LD mount to lay down the servo if you are in the realm of a lower center of gravity. Some chassis choices (like the 4-10 chassis kit offer molded plastic braces which makes the chassis very rigid) but a flat plate chassis will need some additional braces. The common size of 67mm will allow you have a wider skid plate and narrower front and rear allowing the chassis to be “pre-loaded” to help create additional stiffness.
As for hardware, you’ve got one choice in my book: KNK. They offer a “Monster Bag” that should get a great start. You can always use what you’ve got laying around but it makes it a big help to have it all there in one place.
While you’re planning your build, I suggest you also think of what body you plan on using. Look at both GSpeed and KNK for some awesome machined aluminum body post mounts since you may need to get creative.
Wheels/Tires are a personal choice and I won’t go much into options other than making sure you’ve got a big enough wheel to cover the axle option you chose. This also may be an area where your rule book may narrow your options.
One last thing to think of are bumpers/sliders. Some companies make bumpers to go along with the 67mm spacing like The Crawl Space but you could also try Werty, IERC, DSM Offroad or a ScalerFab version. Sliders can be custom versions like what GSpeed offer (one version allows you to mount certain hard bodies) and others have provisions for a strap to hold down your battery. You can always break out the torch/welder and make your own if you want to set yourself apart, but that adds complexity and time to an already lengthy build.
Don't forget electronics. This is one area where there won't be a right or wrong choice, but a little forethought will save you some headache in the future. You'll need to make two significant choices, servo(s) and motor/ESC combo. I would choose what servo you are running first since that can shift what specs are important when it comes to picking an ESC. A direct power servo can allow you to run a smaller/lighter ESC, whereas a standard servo will need a beefy BEC (I would recommend an outboard version, make sure it's wired correctly to support your receiver/ESC). If you plan on using a winch will also play into the BEC/ESC choice. Also verify that your winch choice has some way to control it, either built in like the Holmes or Reefs version or a separate one like a HeyOK version. There are pros and cons to both brushed and brushless (I won't go into all of that here) but I will say that I have both!
In closing, this is not meant to be the hard line to follow. Some people may have an extra transmission laying around which leads to which skid to choose. Or a set of axles…this can start anywhere and go anywhere! One last thing to consider, batteries. Most of these build will use smaller than normal batteries. I use a 3S 1300 mah pack in one rig and a 4S 1500 mah pack in the other with about an hour of runtime. The slider/battery mount won’t handle much bigger unless you start with a builders kit from Traxxas/Axial/Enduro or Vanquish. The most important part is to get out there and have fun.
Feel free to add what you’ve experienced when building your chassis to this!
In general you’ll need to purchase the following:
Chassis
Skid plate
Transmission
Axles
Shocks
Links
Driveshafts
Braces/servo mount
Hardware
Body mounts
Wheels/tires
Bumpers/sliders
And of course electronics. I’m not gonna get into the realm of “superlight” or “comp” builds since you can always steer your build that way from the start, this is a general build post to get you in the ballpark. The brands/vendors I mention are those that I’ve had direct experience with but are no means the only option you have or the best option. I’ve recently built a TGH Sherpa and a GSpeed V3 so many of my examples/info may reference these two options but can be adapted to other variations. Also, some companies may sell a “bundle” that’s designed around a certain platform that may help those in the beginning. Also be aware that if you are leaning towards a “comp” build you may have to adhere to specific rules based on the class you plan on competing in.
Let’s get started:
Start with the chassis you have some direct experience with (maybe a local with a similar setup) or a build on here. My first purchase was on the recommendation of a fellow RCC poster who was very accommodating of my questions, thus leading to my choice.
The next choice may be the hardest since you’ve got to pick a skid based on the transmission you plan to use. Some companies offer a skid with many mounting options and some offer a few based on some popular comp style of transmission. Most will be machined delrin which is very dense and machines very well but I recommend getting a 3mm tap to aid in the build.
My chassis choice led me into what transmission to pick since they offered a bundle (making many of the choices simpler).
My choice of axles was based on a currently used rig of mine, making the “cost” slightly cheaper though you can pick up some axles prebuilt (like the 10.3 straight axle kit) or something like a Boom racing/Beef Tubes/SSD where you purchase parts/pieces to make up what you need.
Shocks were again an easy choice since I used the shocks from the car that was generous enough to donate its axles! Again, Traxxas GTS or Big Bore, Dravtech, Enduro, as well as some other options are out there if you want to truly go all custom. Don’t forget to take into account the length of shock to complement your axle choice (i.e. portal axles so slightly shorter shocks).
Links are available from a few places, depending on your choice of chassis and the material you wish to use for the actual links. I’ve bought more than a few sets from In The Works RC but Hardcore RC is another option if you want something a little more specific (like Titanium or Brass as well as straight or high clearance). Also make sure that you verify the wheelbase you plan on having since in some cases you may be able to have a super short link for an 11.0” WB or super long 12.8” WB.
Driveshafts come in many configurations from a simple plastic Axial wildboar to an Element plastic/aluminum up to an metal MIP/Supershafty/Boom Racing. One of my rigs uses a separate motor mount and transfer case so I needed a third driveshaft. If you plan on using an Axial style 3 gear (or Vanquish version or Enduro version) you’ll only need a pair. Also make sure that you refer to the original build plan/link length since you may stretch out a standard length shaft and need to purchase a few option pieces to make your driveshaft match your WB.
One place to make a choice is the servo mount/bracing. Some companies like TGH sell a two servo upright mount that’s found in many kit or RTR models like the 4-10 or Enduro. GSpeed offers a G-LD mount to lay down the servo if you are in the realm of a lower center of gravity. Some chassis choices (like the 4-10 chassis kit offer molded plastic braces which makes the chassis very rigid) but a flat plate chassis will need some additional braces. The common size of 67mm will allow you have a wider skid plate and narrower front and rear allowing the chassis to be “pre-loaded” to help create additional stiffness.
As for hardware, you’ve got one choice in my book: KNK. They offer a “Monster Bag” that should get a great start. You can always use what you’ve got laying around but it makes it a big help to have it all there in one place.
While you’re planning your build, I suggest you also think of what body you plan on using. Look at both GSpeed and KNK for some awesome machined aluminum body post mounts since you may need to get creative.
Wheels/Tires are a personal choice and I won’t go much into options other than making sure you’ve got a big enough wheel to cover the axle option you chose. This also may be an area where your rule book may narrow your options.
One last thing to think of are bumpers/sliders. Some companies make bumpers to go along with the 67mm spacing like The Crawl Space but you could also try Werty, IERC, DSM Offroad or a ScalerFab version. Sliders can be custom versions like what GSpeed offer (one version allows you to mount certain hard bodies) and others have provisions for a strap to hold down your battery. You can always break out the torch/welder and make your own if you want to set yourself apart, but that adds complexity and time to an already lengthy build.
Don't forget electronics. This is one area where there won't be a right or wrong choice, but a little forethought will save you some headache in the future. You'll need to make two significant choices, servo(s) and motor/ESC combo. I would choose what servo you are running first since that can shift what specs are important when it comes to picking an ESC. A direct power servo can allow you to run a smaller/lighter ESC, whereas a standard servo will need a beefy BEC (I would recommend an outboard version, make sure it's wired correctly to support your receiver/ESC). If you plan on using a winch will also play into the BEC/ESC choice. Also verify that your winch choice has some way to control it, either built in like the Holmes or Reefs version or a separate one like a HeyOK version. There are pros and cons to both brushed and brushless (I won't go into all of that here) but I will say that I have both!
In closing, this is not meant to be the hard line to follow. Some people may have an extra transmission laying around which leads to which skid to choose. Or a set of axles…this can start anywhere and go anywhere! One last thing to consider, batteries. Most of these build will use smaller than normal batteries. I use a 3S 1300 mah pack in one rig and a 4S 1500 mah pack in the other with about an hour of runtime. The slider/battery mount won’t handle much bigger unless you start with a builders kit from Traxxas/Axial/Enduro or Vanquish. The most important part is to get out there and have fun.
Feel free to add what you’ve experienced when building your chassis to this!
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