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CR-01 Differential/axle grinding? Please advise

theplaz13

Newbie
Joined
Dec 28, 2010
Messages
3
Location
Seattle
Some advice is needed from the experts. This is my first CR-01 build, awesome kit that is a blast, but I am having some weird issues with the differential/axle assembly...

When building the axle housing, both front and rear differentials are grinding against the plastic of the housing. I cant figure out why, have assembled per directions inclusive of shims, tried switching the differentials to other axle housing and no change. Fully assembled and still grinding? Just doesn't make sense.

Anyone have any ideas on a fix? Or do most people just drive the grind away (plastic is rubbed off by driving) and that fixes it. Its not so bound up that it wont spin, just is annoying that its not a nice smooth rotation.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
i would suggest check the position of the bearings holding the axle in place, grinding on plastic is not common, but the CR-01 axles are certainly crunchy to start off. the alignment is off, is it occuring on both axles? also a picture is worth a thousand words, whenever i had difficulty and got stuck on a build/fix, i posted up pics and most of the time it was something simple i missed or put in/on backwards, hell, this kit has over 1000 pieces!
welcome to the club, fun chassis and there are a lot of options for hop ups and mods!
 
Are you sure it's acctually rubbing on the plastic? as Cydog mentioned the CR01 axles are"crunchy" and not smooth until you've run a few packs through them. So grinding axles on a new build is normal but it shouldn't be from rubbing on the plastic housing.
 
Are you sure it's acctually rubbing on the plastic? as Cydog mentioned the CR01 axles are"crunchy" and not smooth until you've run a few packs through them. So grinding axles on a new build is normal but it shouldn't be from rubbing on the plastic housing.


Thanks for the responses! After reading both and taking apart the axle housing and not finding anything wrong, and the term "crunchy" perfectly describes the noise/feeling from the axles, I will continue to assemble and run some packs through as you both suggest.

And I have to agree, this kit is awesome!

Thanks!
 
Tamiya kits are a blast to build. It's also a really fun truck to drive. Have fun with it & post some pics.
 
Soon enough your axles will spin like mad. If I take mine off the drive train now I can spin them and they go forever, they are a few years old now and really freed up.
 
I actually felt like my axles were "crunchy" since I got mine together a month ago. I haven't driven it much though since I need to find a place to do so, about 30min. total so far. I did recently install an STR rear lock-out (straight rear axle). I was sure it became louder afterward. In part because I wasn't terribly impressed with inconsistent dimensions of the STR setup. Holding it up to my ear and running it with each axle alternately, by my ear, I thought it was the rear making grinding or crunching noise. It was consistent, like every 4th tooth on the ring gear was a little bigger than the rest or something.

One entire rear axle disassembly, inspection (nothing found), reassembly later, I needed a different explanation. With one half of the drive shaft connected to the rear (disconnected from motor), I spun the rear end, with wheels on, by the drive shaft. It was smooth and quiet, incapable of the noise I had heard. I did the same with the front, smooth and quiet! I hooked it all back up and crunch and grind.

My noise, which seems similar to the noises I've read about from many others' new setups, was coming from the transmisssion. Given how completely silent my axles actually are, I think this may be the culprit for most of us. I dropped the motor/trans carrier, removed drive shafts and ran and sure enough, it's loud as hell. It was however different sounding disconnected from the load of the axles, less crunchy. I disassembled down to the planetary trans level to check for an improper assembly there (by me) only to find nothing wrong, that I could see.

After reassembly of the trans, the only thing I had left was to check the adjustment of the motor on the motor plate. I backed out the two screws holding the motor in, just enough to make an adjustment but, tight enough to still test run the new position. What I found is a lot of room for change in the amount of noise from different positions. I reinstalled both "inboard" driveshafts so I could slide the two driveshaft halves together, connecting the rear and front ends to the motor to check the overall noise. With the motor still able to be adjusted and set far away from the trans gear, I ran the motor. While running, I gradually squeezed the motor toward a tighter meshing of gears.

Soon, I found the best alignment possible and locked my motor in at that position. I reassembled the motor/trans carrier back in the chassis and it has made a signifigant difference in the noise issue. Ultimately, the noise is a result of the planetary transmission, I believe. I hope I can save somebody the journey I took to get here! Start with adjusting the motor, at the "motor plate".

I hope I have been clear in my description. This cr-01 is my first rc "anything", so I'm not exactly a natural in this topic of discussion. I'll post some pics of my Landcruiser soon. Man, this thing is really cool!
 
Good point. The issue with the axles grinding is an imperfection in the ring gear I think (I think I read that somewhere, maybe not). Anyway, you typically notice the axle grind as soon as you've completed that step because naturally, after you put the axles together, you spin them and it feels like something is not put together correctly. YOu can find countless threads where people have assembled & reassembled multiple times only to conclude that things are assembled correctly per the instructions.

So typically, you will notice axle grind before you have the truck running.

if you've gotten beyond this step & notice the problem after everything is connected, look at gear mesh & transmission.
 
I actually felt like my axles were "crunchy" since I got mine together a month ago. I haven't driven it much though since I need to find a place to do so, about 30min. total so far. I did recently install an STR rear lock-out (straight rear axle). I was sure it became louder afterward. In part because I wasn't terribly impressed with inconsistent dimensions of the STR setup. Holding it up to my ear and running it with each axle alternately, by my ear, I thought it was the rear making grinding or crunching noise. It was consistent, like every 4th tooth on the ring gear was a little bigger than the rest or something.

One entire rear axle disassembly, inspection (nothing found), reassembly later, I needed a different explanation. With one half of the drive shaft connected to the rear (disconnected from motor), I spun the rear end, with wheels on, by the drive shaft. It was smooth and quiet, incapable of the noise I had heard. I did the same with the front, smooth and quiet! I hooked it all back up and crunch and grind.

My noise, which seems similar to the noises I've read about from many others' new setups, was coming from the transmisssion. Given how completely silent my axles actually are, I think this may be the culprit for most of us. I dropped the motor/trans carrier, removed drive shafts and ran and sure enough, it's loud as hell. It was however different sounding disconnected from the load of the axles, less crunchy. I disassembled down to the planetary trans level to check for an improper assembly there (by me) only to find nothing wrong, that I could see.

After reassembly of the trans, the only thing I had left was to check the adjustment of the motor on the motor plate. I backed out the two screws holding the motor in, just enough to make an adjustment but, tight enough to still test run the new position. What I found is a lot of room for change in the amount of noise from different positions. I reinstalled both "inboard" driveshafts so I could slide the two driveshaft halves together, connecting the rear and front ends to the motor to check the overall noise. With the motor still able to be adjusted and set far away from the trans gear, I ran the motor. While running, I gradually squeezed the motor toward a tighter meshing of gears.

Soon, I found the best alignment possible and locked my motor in at that position. I reassembled the motor/trans carrier back in the chassis and it has made a signifigant difference in the noise issue. Ultimately, the noise is a result of the planetary transmission, I believe. I hope I can save somebody the journey I took to get here! Start with adjusting the motor, at the "motor plate".

I hope I have been clear in my description. This cr-01 is my first rc "anything", so I'm not exactly a natural in this topic of discussion. I'll post some pics of my Landcruiser soon. Man, this thing is really cool!

this is some quality information, thanks so much for taking the time to type it up AND that you tore down so many times to guess and test!
 
I experienced the same issue during my build. Everything was fine without the diff locking pin inserted, but with the pin in there was binding and chattering. Turns out the insertion of the pin pulls the ring and pinion gears tightly together. I ended up drilling the holes a little larger.
 
the locking pin will cause binding and noises if you tighten it down to far as it pushes the axle shaft causing things to get out of round
 
the locking pin will cause binding and noises if you tighten it down to far as it pushes the axle shaft causing things to get out of round

In my case, backing out the pin a bit didn't help. Removing it entirely fixed the problem, but I wanted locked diffs. Hence the drilling.
 
Thanks for the great write up Jimjam! These are the kind of write ups that make it really helpful for fellow newbies to find out great information as we build as well!

Thanks to all of you for the great ideas/suggestions and I would have to agree that post build the noise/issue has dissipated. No more crunchy, just lots of fun.
Will work on getting pictures up shortly.

Thanks all.
 
I just thought I'd update the latest evolution in the noise that my trans makes. I swapped out my stock 20t pinion for a Robinson 12t. Wow, is it quiet!!! You couldn't have convinced me that just one gear in that whole mess of gears was responsible for so much noise. Especially when it was a Tamiya product, certain to be the right pitch, mod, metric etc...

How does it crawl with a 12t (18.5 Ballistic, Goat 2s w/ minimum drive set to lowest setting), like Butta! Low speed control is real good. It's so damn quiet, it's like whole new vehicle!
 
axle grinding

I just started my build of the CR01 and used this site as a guide.
Man, this is a great site, my axle grinds also @ assembly, I backed out the locker screw just a little & it quited down some.
Has anyone tried breaking these in by using a cordless drill on low.....
(using much caution) upon building my second rear/diff/axle if it also makes the same noise I may try the cordless, prior to continuing the build and hope it goes away..... dunno... let you know how it goes.:roll:
 
the locking pin will cause binding and noises if you tighten it down to far as it pushes the axle shaft causing things to get out of round


I have had this issue too. Just put the pin in relatively loosly (so that there is no binding in the axle) with a little of the supplied thread lock and the pin should stay in place, unless you want to remove it!
 
Theplaz13,

Thanks for starting this post it helped me on my CR-01 FJ-40 build. I backed the locking pins out in each axel and they are smother now and not as noisy when i spin them. When i put the heavy side up it will now free fall to the bottom, before i back the locking pins out it would not do that.

Thanks again this post saved me much time and stress.
 
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