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Clicking under Heavy braking

BrandonM95

Newbie
Joined
Oct 27, 2015
Messages
38
Location
Reading PA
Hello. My XL recently developed a clicking under heavy braking. I can't duplicate this unless the truck is at speed and bring it to a quick stop.

My guess is the pinion gears and the plastic spacer gone bad so I ordered up Fast eddies bearing kit and some pinion shims.

Does anyone else have suggestions?
 
That sound has always been the hex's stripping the wheels for me. Happens no matter how tight you got 'em. [emoji47]
 
That was my first concern so I replaced the RTR hexes with HR hub kit. There wasn't any rounding issues on the wheels but I still get the noise after the change-over
 
In my experience that its cost and effect, most if not all nitro RC's have a clutch and a brake, clutch severs the connection between the transmission and the motor and the brake stops the rig from moving forward. When electric rigs brake ESC locks the motor which means everything stops spinning your transmission connected to the driveshaft connected to the gears in your differential and to the wheels. And if you double push the trigger upwards it gets worst coz now the motor reverses on the second upward push and puts more strain on high speed rig moving forward to an abrupt stop to reversing. Now heavy breaking at high speeds and take into consideration the weight of your rig it takes a heavy toll on your gears not to mention your driveshaft, gears in your transmission, spur and pinion gears. Take the transmission spur gear cover off and you will see some metal dust or flakes in there, even when you mesh it right you will still find dust and flakes a by product of heavy breaking from high speeds. Inside the transmission the grease on the gears turns dark because of the metal dust and it has nothing to do with meshing it right, it gets darker faster with heavy breaking on high speed.

Now some might say that other electric RC's in the same class or bigger doesn't have this problem, well lets take the Losi DBXL with the electric conversion and this is just an example, no clutch no break but hardly have the clicking problem on high speed heavy breaking. DBXL is heavier, bigger and wider the difference is the spiral cut bevel gear which the YXL does not have, but even so you do heavy breaking on high speed often enough it doesn't matter how your gears are cut sooner or later it will be clinking.

This is just based on my personal experience and like you I looked into other avenues that could have contributed or may have been the cause of the clicking, pursue them too I have broken front and rear bevel and pinion gears from doing the exact same thing you did it took me 3 sets to figure out that it was my driving style. Luckily Axial support was/is there to replace broken parts, you should call them for warranty replacement and finally if your not working on your rig your not really having fun.
 
Last edited:
In my experience that its cost and effect, most if not all nitro RC's have a clutch and a brake, clutch severs the connection between the transmission and the motor and the brake stops the rig from moving forward. When electric rigs brake ESC locks the motor which means everything stops spinning your transmission connected to the driveshaft connected to the gears in your differential and to the wheels. And if you double push the trigger upwards it gets worst coz now the motor reverses on the second upward push and puts more strain on high speed rig moving forward to an abrupt stop to reversing. Now heavy breaking at high speeds and take into consideration the weight of your rig it takes a heavy toll on your gears not to mention your driveshaft, gears in your transmission, spur and pinion gears. Take the transmission spur gear cover off and you will see some metal dust or flakes in there, even when you mesh it right you will still find dust and flakes a by product of heavy breaking from high speeds. Inside the transmission the grease on the gears turns dark because of the metal dust and it has nothing to do with meshing it right, it gets darker faster with heavy breaking on high speed.

Now some might say that other electric RC's in the same class or bigger doesn't have this problem, well lets take the Losi DBXL with the electric conversion and this is just an example, no clutch no break but hardly have the clicking problem on high speed heavy breaking. DBXL is heavier, bigger and wider the difference is the spiral cut bevel gear which the YXL does not have, but even so you do heavy breaking on high speed often enough it doesn't matter how your gears are cut sooner or later it will be clinking.

This is just based on my personal experience and like you I looked into other avenues that could have contributed or may have been the cause of the clicking, pursue them too I have broken front and rear bevel and pinion gears from doing the exact same thing you did it took me 3 sets to figure out that it was my driving style. Luckily Axial support was/is there to replace broken parts, you should call them for warranty replacement and finally if your not working on your rig your not really having fun.

So just to sum up, it was your pinion and bevel gears and you talked to Axial support and received replacements?
 
A bell gear only engages stronger in one direction. Breaking and reverse are actually harder on bevel gears.

1:1 has wheel brakes to mitigate stress on drive train braking unlike an electric RC which uses drive train braking. For this reason, a 1:1 is able to utilize bevel gears to their full advantage.
 
So just to sum up, it was your pinion and bevel gears and you talked to Axial support and received replacements?

The differential bevel and pinion gear were clicking it had scratches, heavy galling and the grease turned front yellow to black and thats after my 4th run the gears were just eating away at each other. I called Axial support and explained my situation and they mailed replacement parts 2 days later.

If your referring to the clicking noise that you hear on the transmission and not the differential then disregard my previous post. Clicking on the transmission is one or 2 things slipper clutch and/or gear mesh, on my RTR after after 2 runs clicking got louder if you look at the manual it warns you to adjust the slipper clutch, gear mesh and other things after the first run. The break-in period, the slipper pad and washer settles and needs to be tighten, check the clearance on the pinion/spur gear mesh these are new metal gears and they will loosen up after the first run. With my driving style I do it before every run to ensure correct mesh, please remember that both pinion and spur gears are metal and your rig is about 12 lbs its loud when gears starts moving.
 
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tore the truck apart last night. I reset the spur gear mesh, tighted up slipper clutch, 3-bearing mod in rear differential housing and installed GPM front C-hub and knuckles.

the clicking is worse now and everything looked good from the motor to the rear differential.

the issue has to be the front pinion gears so I did a test and ran the truck while holding the rear wheels off of the ground. I think the pinion really blew then because the front wheels stopped turning.

2 sets of pinion gears are ordered and on their way thanks to amazon prime and overnight shipping.
 
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