CHEAP super powerful LED light

[Rekreant]

So I use these Larrys work lights (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ORUQ0C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

and they are wonderfully cheap and exceptionally bright. It runs off of two triple A's. Im thinking of finding a way to repurpose it to go on my trail honcho and finding a way to actuate its power through my receiver. I am electronics savvy but I was wondering if anyone else has tried something like this and may have already done the leg work on a mod like this? Im thinking its a normal 3 post switch so I could just hook it up with servo wire and use a 2 position setting in my radio. I would just power it off of triple As because they last very long, also since it runs off 3 volts.

Anyone else done this? Im going to start with some mock up with the 3d printer but if I can save some work I am all ears!

 

[ferp420]

Its just a cob style led light there very cheap i cut a bic pen in half long ways and slip the cob light inside one half and instant light bar alittle glue and your good to go

 

[UncleJohn]

If I'm understanding you correctly, you want this light plugged into a spare receiver channel and then switch it with your transmitter?

 

[Rekreant]

If I'm understanding you correctly, you want this light plugged into a spare receiver channel and then switch it with your transmitter?

Yes basically. Ill probably take out its guts and put a light bar on my roof that I 3d print.

 

[UncleJohn]

Some time ago, on Banggood, I found a relay that can switch up to 5 amps. It plugs into an extra receiver channel. This relay can then be switched from the transmitter.

 

[spoo76]

I posted about these about 6 years ago, but lost mine and never replaced it.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/gene...-pocket-work-light-cheap-scale-light-bar.html
I should get another for work lol.



Sent from my LGMP450 using Tapatalk

 

[Jim85IROC]

If you want to control the light via a spare receiver channel, you can follow the installation I did in the video below. I did the exact same thing, except that I used the receiver channel to control a set of police lights, not an illumination light. Same concept though.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2ICj8hgplAc" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[UncleJohn]

After I posted last night it started eating on me. I had to find that switch. It turns out I was way off, again... I found it on HobbyKing. This little switch has a throughput of 10 Amps and 30 Volts and weighs 7 grams. It costs $8.00.

Here's the link: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-switch-1.html

Cheers!

 

[Jim85IROC]

After I posted last night it started eating on me. I had to find that switch. It turns out I was way off, again... I found it on HobbyKing. This little switch has a throughput of 10 Amps and 30 Volts and weighs 7 grams. It costs $8.00.

Here's the link: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-switch-1.html

Cheers!

That switch is perfect if you want to use an external power source. I used one of those to switch my LED light bar on and off in my Bomber.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_KeDSP5VlM8" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Hydrocarbon92]

Anyone else done this? Im going to start with some mock up with the 3d printer but if I can save some work I am all ears!

Actually I think it was Jim85IROC, he got a $2 COB strip from China but they're designed for either 12 or 14v. IIRC he even posted a 3d file. Anything automotive will be 14v, anything that explicitly doesn't indicate automotive will be brighter (and hotter) at an actual 12v. It seems the most common 140mm are 14v and 120mm are 12v.

I haven't bought any whites yet but I am using the reds for converting my 67 Firebird taillights. They're the perfect size.

 

[Rekreant]

Awesome guys, thanks for the responses. I need to get better at 3d modeling so I am gonna see what I can work on that front myself. Ill start searching for a start point tho...

 

[Jim85IROC]

Actually I think it was Jim85IROC, he got a $2 COB strip from China but they're designed for either 12 or 14v. IIRC he even posted a 3d file. Anything automotive will be 14v, anything that explicitly doesn't indicate automotive will be brighter (and hotter) at an actual 12v. It seems the most common 140mm are 14v and 120mm are 12v.

I haven't bought any whites yet but I am using the reds for converting my 67 Firebird taillights. They're the perfect size.

Yeah, that was me. I built it for my son's Gen7. Fun fact: The other day I finally got around to soldering up a boost converter so I could run it from the 2S lipo that I run in the truck. That didn't go as planned. The boost converter is hovering at right around 180-200F. Back to the external 3S battery.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2xyY2dTb8Nk" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Hydrocarbon92]

Jeez, what converter? I believe mine use the MT3608 chip and it's able to power 2x of the 14v/140mm COB light bars for several hours w/o going beyond 120F. I've tried it with a 2S battery and a 3S battery. It can burn itself out if the input is higher than the output so I used 2x diodes to drop input voltage 1.4v.

 

[Jim85IROC]

I don't remember what chip the converter is based on. I bought a pile of them on Ebay 6 months ago for about $1/each. Based on the pics I'm seeing on ebay of the MT3608 style, I think that's what I bought. It works OK (although turning the POT doesn't seem to change the output voltage when it's under load), it just gets hotter than I want. I need to grab a small heat sink for it and hopefully that'll drop the surface temp low enough to where I'd feel comfortable mounting it to the chassis.

I think this is about a 10 watt LED, so at the 10V I'm feeding it, there shouldn't be more than 1A of current draw, but both the light and the boost converter seem to heat soak to about 180-200F.