Yes I know the wr8 flux is supposed to be a rally car but I decided to help it forget that part.
Anyways the wr8 didn't start out life as an rtr, I pieced this together. Parts came mostly from dollar hobbies and some parts from greece.... which took forever to come in. Originally I built it to be pretty much stock, I threw in some kyosho rtr servo, airtronics rx-461 rx and a hobbywing justock esc and 13.5t with super Rs4 wheels and tires.
After a few runs I had had to replace the front camber links with axial rod ends and threaded rod. The steering and rear camber were replaced with revo rod ends and threaded rod, also swapped the electronics to a mmp/pro4 4000kv. But eventually that was replaced with an Orion vortex8 combo to run 4s.
So for a few months it was plenty fast.... then I decided to get rid of the stock chassis, battery mount and shock towers in favor of the exotek speed chassis and towers... that was a BIG difference in how it handled. On 4s it was already a drift car when you wanted to, after the exotek chassis speed runs needed some finesse or it would just spin out. I ended up having to adjust the camber links to get most of the camber out of it, don't know the exact settings though. Within a few packs of the new chassis I killed the Rc4wd trail stomper body that I had mounted to it, in favor of a proline 2017 raptor body with wing from a 200mm hpi onroad body.
Here's the Rc4wd body before it was killed, it was already repaired using aluminum tape after being stepped on. Eventually it had huge holes on either side
How it currently looks, I need to reglue or replace the wheels/tires. This body DOES help with the traction problem but not enough.
Anyways after 2 uneventful runs with the new body I snapped a front c hub right in half..... which still needs replaced. That happened in October.
Now for the reason I started this thread....the castle sidewinder 1/8 and 2200kv combo. Prior to getting it I was already going to replace the Orion set up since it could only run up to 4s, once I saw the price I had to go for it.
Now the fun part comes.... mounting the motor and that monstrous esc. The motor was straight forward, take the old one out and put the new one in with some m3 washers spacing it away from the motor cam. Then swap the I believe 22t pinion (I'll double check tomorrow) over. The motor JUST fits in there with the center diff towards the rear. The esc is the fun part. I had the Orion mounted between the center diff along side the servo.... the sidwinder won't fit. So I checked on the other side of the chassis.... no luck with the battery mount in either position! So to mount it i asked a friend with a machine shop to build me a bracket to mount the esc to which will mount to the center diff and have the esc just above the front center driveshaft.
Once the esc is mounted, then comes more upgrades to handle 6s. Unfortunately I have to go with integy parts on this since nobody makes anything for these, I'll also be going with either associated or losi 2wd buggy shocks front and rear and possibly getting wr8 street tires for this.
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Anyways the wr8 didn't start out life as an rtr, I pieced this together. Parts came mostly from dollar hobbies and some parts from greece.... which took forever to come in. Originally I built it to be pretty much stock, I threw in some kyosho rtr servo, airtronics rx-461 rx and a hobbywing justock esc and 13.5t with super Rs4 wheels and tires.
After a few runs I had had to replace the front camber links with axial rod ends and threaded rod. The steering and rear camber were replaced with revo rod ends and threaded rod, also swapped the electronics to a mmp/pro4 4000kv. But eventually that was replaced with an Orion vortex8 combo to run 4s.
So for a few months it was plenty fast.... then I decided to get rid of the stock chassis, battery mount and shock towers in favor of the exotek speed chassis and towers... that was a BIG difference in how it handled. On 4s it was already a drift car when you wanted to, after the exotek chassis speed runs needed some finesse or it would just spin out. I ended up having to adjust the camber links to get most of the camber out of it, don't know the exact settings though. Within a few packs of the new chassis I killed the Rc4wd trail stomper body that I had mounted to it, in favor of a proline 2017 raptor body with wing from a 200mm hpi onroad body.
Here's the Rc4wd body before it was killed, it was already repaired using aluminum tape after being stepped on. Eventually it had huge holes on either side
How it currently looks, I need to reglue or replace the wheels/tires. This body DOES help with the traction problem but not enough.
Anyways after 2 uneventful runs with the new body I snapped a front c hub right in half..... which still needs replaced. That happened in October.
Now for the reason I started this thread....the castle sidewinder 1/8 and 2200kv combo. Prior to getting it I was already going to replace the Orion set up since it could only run up to 4s, once I saw the price I had to go for it.
Now the fun part comes.... mounting the motor and that monstrous esc. The motor was straight forward, take the old one out and put the new one in with some m3 washers spacing it away from the motor cam. Then swap the I believe 22t pinion (I'll double check tomorrow) over. The motor JUST fits in there with the center diff towards the rear. The esc is the fun part. I had the Orion mounted between the center diff along side the servo.... the sidwinder won't fit. So I checked on the other side of the chassis.... no luck with the battery mount in either position! So to mount it i asked a friend with a machine shop to build me a bracket to mount the esc to which will mount to the center diff and have the esc just above the front center driveshaft.
Once the esc is mounted, then comes more upgrades to handle 6s. Unfortunately I have to go with integy parts on this since nobody makes anything for these, I'll also be going with either associated or losi 2wd buggy shocks front and rear and possibly getting wr8 street tires for this.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
