c0bra builds an enduro

[c0bra]

I built an enduro! …….. well before this pandemic was really even a thing. The plan was to if’s swap it and use the proline metric body to build a sweet overland rig…. However after a year of not really going anywhere the idea was scrapped.

Then I went on shrink rc and saw they sold body mounts to mount an rc4wd xtra cab and knew what the build was going to be! Now I’m not much of a yota person but I like all of the opening parts.

Now onto the build! Currently the chassis is just a boring builders kit with an ifs conversion, however for this build it is actually going to go back to solid axle as I plan to build it for c1 without the interior. I don’t plan to comp it though it will be built so it won’t need much to be able to.

The plan is to use a roc412 3100kv with a mamba x esc and the non overdrive gears in the transmission. The axles will be getting ssd diff covers and link mounts, with the front also getting ssd chubs and brass knuckles with scx10ii axle shafts. For driveshafts it will be running the incision versions. Also will be running the bowhouse skid and ssd shock towers

Now for wheels in tires I’m going to use 1.55 ssd d hole wheels with pitbull growlers. Also forgot to mention that I’m running traxxas 5525 rod ends on one side of each rear link to extend the wheelbase enough for the body.

Now onto the pics

As you can see in the pics I did have to cut holes in the bed unfortunately. I was planning on going cantilever in the rear but with the way the bed mounts in the back, that idea was scrapped.


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[Lashlee]

Cool build, very similar to mine. I did most of all of the same upgrades to the axles that you have planned, but I used one of the Killer Body LC70's with a bobbed bed (I chopped about 1-1/4" out of it). Great trail truck with some 4.19's!

 

[smog]

Looking good, nice specs. Are the cutouts in the bed horrible? I quite like the look for an off-roader

 

[c0bra]

We’ll just after starting the build thread I noticed a slight issue….. how are the doors going to stay closed? Up until this point I noticed how the mounted and just assumed there was some sort of latch in the rear interior panel. Boy was I wrong!

The way the doors stay closed on this is there is a magnet inside the door panel on each door, then there is a piece of metal that gets screwed into the interior. Now I could just say screw it and only have a few small pieces of the interior in the truck but I didn’t want to do that. So outcame the Dremel and a huge mess. Now I have a giant hole in the front of the interior so a shorty pack will fit, wiring will be annoying but I’m not there yet. I am hoping that once I put the dash in, everything will clear and the battery will mostly be hidden


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[kincer]

I'm doing the exact build, however I'm hoping my shorty pack will be in the front under the hood, so far it's looking like it'll work, I went with 80mm Incision shocks and leaned them forward and mounted in existing holes in chassis for the rear, flex well and dropped overall ride height.

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[c0bra]

I'm doing the exact build, however I'm hoping my shorty pack will be in the front under the hood, so far it's looking like it'll work, I went with 80mm Incision shocks and leaned them forward and mounted in existing holes in chassis for the rear, flex well and dropped overall ride height.

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Once the front axle is back on the truck, I’m going to look into seeing if I can run a shorty 2s or 3s pack under the hood. The original plan was to keep it easy to remove/put back in the battery and turn the truck in without having to remove the body

I just got all the upgrades in. So time to take the truck mostly apart!


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[c0bra]

Build is going a little bit of a different direction. But nothing is really changing. The last 2 weeks I was able to get out of the house and run with the local group with a relatively stock knightrunner. The first run was a fun run, the second was a fun comp.

Though that truck did fairly well considering it’s a tiny tire long wheelbase truck, it made me want to build a legit class 1 truck. So what better to use than a truck that i already know clears 4.19 tires and looks good doing it.

So this will be a class 1 build but will also work for fun runs. Not much is actually changing. It’s getting a reefs 422v2 servo winch, Holmes 2700kv and a mamba x. I’ve basically figured out how to mount everything, except for the esc.

Before I left work I was able to check the scrap bin and found a piece of aluminum to use for the esc mount!


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[MOguy]

I built and Enduro like yours. RC4WD Toyota Extra Cab MambaX Tenkin motor, slides and bumpers from a local RC Fabricator. I am running AR44s with 12% UD in the trans and 9% UD in the rear axle.

 

[MOguy]

We’ll just after starting the build thread I noticed a slight issue….. how are the doors going to stay closed? Up until this point I noticed how the mounted and just assumed there was some sort of latch in the rear interior panel. Boy was I wrong!

The way the doors stay closed on this is there is a magnet inside the door panel on each door, then there is a piece of metal that gets screwed into the interior. Now I could just say screw it and only have a few small pieces of the interior in the truck but I didn’t want to do that. So outcame the Dremel and a huge mess. Now I have a giant hole in the front of the interior so a shorty pack will fit, wiring will be annoying but I’m not there yet. I am hoping that once I put the dash in, everything will clear and the battery will mostly be hidden


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I uses both magnets on one sided, stacked on my metal slider to keep the door shut. I put a little nut and bolt though the door that lines up with the magnet. On the other side I sort of made a latch behind the door, there is a little bolt/screw going thought the door that matches the one on the other side. It sort of works but I also hook my winch hooked there to help keep it closed. I do not have any of the side installed so I can reach in to move the latch.

 

[c0bra]

This truck will be a little different. I’m running a reefs 422v2 servo winch up front with a scalerfab front bumper on the way. I’m trying to keep the really near vertical approach angle I already have. The battery is going in the factory location with the Rc4wd interior being severely cut up to clear the battery and transmission. The trans has the 12% overdrive inside.

The esc will be mounted behind the transmission using another chassis mount for the battery, then with a hand made aluminum mount to get it to clear the bed. There will also be a powershift dms in the bed for when this truck sees local comps.

The receiver box is going in front of the rear chassis brace between the shock towers and is from the ssd trail king. I will need to figure out a way to seal it in case the truck tries to go swimming.

I would like to bob the bed but I’m not sure how much I can. The body has quite a bit of overhang

The tires are also 4.19 growlers and clear everything with little to no trimming.


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[MOguy]

This truck will be a little different. I’m running a reefs 422v2 servo winch up front with a scalerfab front bumper on the way. I’m trying to keep the really near vertical approach angle I already have. The battery is going in the factory location with the Rc4wd interior being severely cut up to clear the battery and transmission. The trans has the 12% overdrive inside.

The esc will be mounted behind the transmission using another chassis mount for the battery, then with a hand made aluminum mount to get it to clear the bed. There will also be a powershift dms in the bed for when this truck sees local comps.

The receiver box is going in front of the rear chassis brace between the shock towers and is from the ssd trail king. I will need to figure out a way to seal it in case the truck tries to go swimming.

I would like to bob the bed but I’m not sure how much I can. The body has quite a bit of overhang

The tires are also 4.19 growlers and clear everything with little to no trimming.


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Since those pictures I have cut part of the grill and mounted my winch back so it is flush up front. I like the way the winch looks sitting normal or more scale but it was in the way and really affected performance.

 

[c0bra]

Getting electronics mounted on this is a pain in the butt!

The servo, servo winch, motor, and battery were easy. A receiver box and esc are turning out to be rather difficult!

Originally the receiver box was in front of the chassis brace however then I won’t have room to drop the esc down farther so i have room for motor wires.

With esc removed. The motor and most of the transmission will be covered by the seats, however they need to be cut up for clearance. The dash needs a lot of trimming as well.


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

I had such a hard time mounting the body and finding places for electronics I spent nearly two weeks on that alone:lmao:

You can do a pretty big bob on this body, I took nearly 2" out of mine and could've taken a little bit more out.

 

[c0bra]

I had such a hard time mounting the body and finding places for electronics I spent nearly two weeks on that alone:lmao:

You can do a pretty big bob on this body, I took nearly 2" out of mine and could've taken a little bit more out.

Can you post pics of how you mounted the electronics in yours?


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[MOguy]

Can you post pics of how you mounted the electronics in yours?


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For me I mount the ESC (MambaX with fan) and receiver in the battery tray, battery next to the servo. The winch is in the grill and a second ESC to control the winch mounted behind where the cab sits. I have a lexan interior and had to do a little cutting to get it to work but more so because the how the motor and trans mount that the electronics.

 

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Can you post pics of how you mounted the electronics in yours?


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I actually don't have the rig anymore, so I don't have any pictures, but I can describe it to you.

I moved the battery tray to the rear to keep my interior intact(C1 comp truck so I had to) I mounted the stock Reedy receiver on the ShrinkRC side mounts; well more like wedged it in between the two humps :lmao: And I cut a huge hole to get my trans to fit; I had cut the seats from a bench to two buckets to get it to fit. Then I put the stock RX box up front between the servo and the shock mount and held it down with a few velcro straps. It was all temporary because it was such a pain in the a$$ finding spots for everything. I also had the body on a hinge mount so it was easy access. i used the rear bracket that comes with the ShrinkRC mounts as a hinge.

hope this helps somehow"thumbsup"

 

[c0bra]

I actually don't have the rig anymore, so I don't have any pictures, but I can describe it to you.

I moved the battery tray to the rear to keep my interior intact(C1 comp truck so I had to) I mounted the stock Reedy receiver on the ShrinkRC side mounts; well more like wedged it in between the two humps :lmao: And I cut a huge hole to get my trans to fit; I had cut the seats from a bench to two buckets to get it to fit. Then I put the stock RX box up front between the servo and the shock mount and held it down with a few velcro straps. It was all temporary because it was such a pain in the a$$ finding spots for everything. I also had the body on a hinge mount so it was easy access. i used the rear bracket that comes with the ShrinkRC mounts as a hinge.

hope this helps somehow"thumbsup"

I’m hoping the interior on this isn’t going to be illegal. It’s quite a bit cut up to clear the stock battery location and transmission. How did you move the battery to the rear? With the shrink rc mounts there no clearance.


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

I’m hoping the interior on this isn’t going to be illegal. It’s quite a bit cut up to clear the stock battery location and transmission. How did you move the battery to the rear? With the shrink rc mounts there no clearance.


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Just how it is up front. I flipped to cross braces from front to rear and did a little body lift to get it to fit. I only had to do the body lift for the wires though, I have hardcases with leads coming out the top.

Sorry, it's kind of hard to explain without pictures.

 

[c0bra]

I figured out my esc fitment issues!

The key was finding a 4mm bullet connector that I could solder a wire at a 90 degree angle from the post. After nearly searching to the end of the internet I had a bright idea! Why not take the protek Bullet connectors I have, and part of the top off to make room for the wire. It actually works! I just need to put conformal coat on the contacts as a precaution.

It actually clears the interior… barely, but it clears! Now rest of the soldering when ever the dms switch gets here


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[c0bra]

Scalerfab bumper finally came in!

With only using the rear bumper mounting holes it brings in the bumper far enough that it barely sticks out in front of the grill. Perfect!!

Bumper is now mounted along with the reefs 422hd v2 servo winch with scalerfab winch line and hook. Also have a land anchor and sand ladders to figure out how to mount

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