Bob builds a Trail King

[Bob_in az]

I've like the tk ever since it was released. Started planning this build & buying parts. After waiting to see how my business would fare with all this beer virus stuff, I pulled the trigger. This is my first kit in about 30 years! My crawlers have all been rtr up to this point. The last kit I built was either an rc10 or a Losi buggy. I remember having both, but I don't remember which one was last.
I gotta say, this kit is solid. Here's my parts list......

TK kit
SSD brass steering knuckles
SSD wide aluminum front shock hoops
SSD metal diff clamps
SPT 35kg servo (it's actually a decent cheap servo)
HH Crawlmaster Expert 13t
HW 1080 esc
Flysky bs6 rx
Injora beadlocks
Proline Krawler t/a predator compound
Proline dual stage foams
Proline Ram 1500 body

Since there's several threads detailing each step, I won't go into detail, just some highlights. The build went very smooth & I really enjoyed it. Still need to paint the body, but it seems to fit the chassis well. On proline's website, the Ram body always looked kinda cartoonish to me, but it really looks pretty good in person.
I put some power to it today & ran into an issue with the steering. I have full steering to the right, but only about half to the left. The servo still has room left, but the horn doesn't have enough throw. I used a 20mm horn as recommended. I need to go back through it. Has anyone else ran into that issue?
I can't wait to get it out on our AZrocks!

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[CriMiN4L]

Love all the build threads, I am currently waiting on my TK to get here, 3-4 week wait, my question to you Bob is about the metal diff clamps.

Are they worthwhile over the plastic ones, and if so why?

 

[Timmahh]

Starting my TK build in the next few days. Waiting on tools to arrive and a few other tidbits to get going like the aluminum axle tubes I still have to order. along with the metal diff clamps. side note, imho, yes metal clamps would be a must do upgrade out of the box. Any movement of the diff will create a slop area, thus a weak point leading to a failure. Besides at 4.00 for a pair, its an inexpensive but important part to upgrade, even if the plastic clamps generally work well.


Will start putting the chassis and tranny together etc until the metal tubes show up and I can put the axles together.

Did you find any needed shimming to be done?
If so where?
So far, it seems most who have built the axles said no shimming was needed on the axles but, not heard much on the rest of the drivetrain.
Any experience forwarded would be appreciated.

 

[bbeaty]

Nice build "thumbsup"

Had the same "issue" with the steering on my recent TK build. I followed the comments from some of the other threads and used a short rod end on the steering servo end in lieu of the long rod end. Servo arm is not quite centered when wheels are centered, but it allows for full steering throw within the radios EPA limits in both directions.

 

[Bob_in az]

Love all the build threads, I am currently waiting on my TK to get here, 3-4 week wait, my question to you Bob is about the metal diff clamps.

Are they worthwhile over the plastic ones, and if so why?

I think they're a worthwhile upgrade. Adding strength & rigidity to the center section can only help. They're inexpensive too.

Starting my TK build in the next few days. Waiting on tools to arrive and a few other tidbits to get going like the aluminum axle tubes I still have to order. along with the metal diff clamps. side note, imho, yes metal clamps would be a must do upgrade out of the box. Any movement of the diff will create a slop area, thus a weak point leading to a failure. Besides at 4.00 for a pair, its an inexpensive but important part to upgrade, even if the plastic clamps generally work well.


Will start putting the chassis and tranny together etc until the metal tubes show up and I can put the axles together.

Did you find any needed shimming to be done?
If so where?
So far, it seems most who have built the axles said no shimming was needed on the axles but, not heard much on the rest of the drivetrain.
Any experience forwarded would be appreciated.

No shimming needed. I tried the thinnest shim I had in the rear & it was too thick.

Nice build "thumbsup"

Had the same "issue" with the steering on my recent TK build. I followed the comments from some of the other threads and used a short rod end on the steering servo end in lieu of the long rod end. Servo arm is not quite centered when wheels are centered, but it allows for full steering throw within the radios EPA limits in both directions.

Yeah, I swapped the long rod end for a short one last night. Got it all sorted out now. "thumbsup"

 

[Bob_in az]

Painted the body tonight. It's been a long time since I painted a lexan body, but I think it turned out well.

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[Bob_in az]

Just about done for now. I'm waiting on the rear axle spacers from SSD. My kit was missing them. When they get here I'll do a shakedown run & see what it needs, if anything. I'll do an interior & fender wells sometime this summer.

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[Timmahh]

I think they're a worthwhile upgrade. Adding strength & rigidity to the center section can only help. They're inexpensive too.

No shimming needed. I tried the thinnest shim I had in the rear & it was too thick.

Yeah, I swapped the long rod end for a short one last night. Got it all sorted out now. "thumbsup"

Love all the build threads, I am currently waiting on my TK to get here, 3-4 week wait, my question to you Bob is about the metal diff clamps.

Are they worthwhile over the plastic ones, and if so why?

Got into my axles tonight. Still waiting on a few parts in the order that will be here tomorrow (Saturday). One of those parts are the metal front tubes, I got the rears in today's order, and the metal axle clamps.
I right away seen the stock clamps were plastic. And no matter how good the plastic is, that is NOT the place to have good plastic. Even though the housing are plastics also. Reason being, the diff will see much stress and pressure. Binding wheels, sudden starts and stops, trying to burn up a rock or slow crawl a steep slope all puts tension and pressure on the diff and the things that secure it in place. Ie the housing and those U clamps.
The plastic will heat up, thus can become soft, or the pressures can cause it to deform, allowing the diff itself to move out of place, leading to a failure.
The metal clamps will not deform, and will do a much better job retaining the diff from moving inside the housing. There are a few drawbacks as the stress will now be leveraged on the screw threads which are seated into the plastic housing. But I doubt they will be a problem If so, that only means metal Diff Housing along with the metal axles.

I agree with Bob, Very much worthy upgrade, and at 3.99 for a pair, 8.00 for both axles, how can you say no? Lol


Bob, did you have a little diff pinion play (in and out of the housing_ but did not seem to cause any slop in the gears when turned? That is what I found after building the rear axle per destruction manual. I didn't shim the rear but its not fully assembled yet. I planned on trying one. When I opened the front, the bag has 2 shims in it. Not real thin, but pretty thin, I put on in the front as it too had some in/out place of the pinion in the housing. But with that one shim, it was too tight and doing a little binding, so you and everyone else is correct, no Shiming needed in the Axles. That is a Marvelous thing 4 sure.

Tomorrow my too big of an order will be here. Fed Ex usually runs in the am, so hopefully by noon, I am buttoning up these axles (all four)
all Four you say? Ya, I somehow added a 2nd kit and many goodies for it, when I went to order a few small parts for the one I have here already.

Using the RC4WD Blazer bodies on both. One Class 1 and one Class 2.



Body looks great too. >Love the metalflake. My Class one will be getting a Stock Chevy Paint and scheme.

Cant wait to see your pics and interior build up. I have a few tricks up my sleeve waiting to come out.

 

[Bob_in az]

Bob, did you have a little diff pinion play (in and out of the housing_ but did not seem to cause any slop in the gears when turned?

Body looks great too. >Love the metalflake. My Class one will be getting a Stock Chevy Paint and scheme.

Cant wait to see your pics and interior build up. I have a few tricks up my sleeve waiting to come out.

I had slight play in the rear axle pinion, but a thin shim was too much. The front had virtually zero play. It seems to be consistent with everyone's builds. Well done SSD!
I tried to match the color of my 1:1. It's a little darker than the color this body turned out to be, but I'm happy with it. I've got a long, hot summer coming & plan on sitting in the a/c working on the interior rather than being out on the trails.